Won't start

My battery is 2 weeks old, the starter is working fine, plugs are firing and it won't start, a friend hooked up a computer to it and it shows nothing

 

If the plugs are firing, I would think that the ECU is trying to fire it up (timing is ok). So yeah, fuel?

 

I will and thank you

 

fuel pump ?

 

Every part in the fuel system has been changed, 4 of the 6 injectors were clogged, except the fuel lines, those are the original, the coils, wires, plugs, fuel regulator, battery, and throttle position sensor, new

 

To be clear... Did you replace the fuel pump? Fuel filter?

Very odd that they injectors were that badly clogged. Never heard them that bad. I'd do a fuel pressure test. The lines may indeed be clogged.

 

The timing is good, I did forget to say after it's left alone overnight, when you try to start it it will run for a few seconds, could it be the computer, because it's not fuel pressure

 

Things getting clogged that bad, especially after replacing the fuel filter and fuel pump's sock, generally indicates a dirty/corroded fuel tank. When you had the fuel pump out, did you LOOK down into the fuel tank for rust flakes? Might have even gotten a batch of contaminated fuel from a station. It happens sometimes.

The old "it starts for a few seconds then shuts down" happens to be a classic symptom of a failed COR. Remember, the COR has 2 halves, essentially, with one half running the fuel pump when the key is turned to the START position, and the other half taking over when the key is in the RUN position.

A quick easy thing to check, really. Just put the jumper into the Fp and B+ pins of the test jack. Then, turn the key to the RUN, or ON, position. You can hear the fuel pump running. Not the loudest thing in the world, but you can hear it. You can even see if the engine will run with the jumpr in. Just do NOT drive it that way.
If the fuel pump runs during the above test, you can check the switch in the MAF to ensure it's still funcional. Again, easy to test. Multimeter in the lowest ohms setting, like 2 ohms, or whatever, then insert the two probes into the rear of the MAF's connector. The right pins to read are in the FSM. Since it's a simple switch, meter lead orientation is irrelevant. With the engine off, the switch should read infinity ohms, or OPEN. When the vane is opened, even slightly, it should read 0 ohms, or closed. If the switch reads good, it's absolutely the COR. If not, it's the MAF.

If the COR or MAF shows bad, don't forget to check the wiring. A wire between the MAF switch and the fuel pump's hot side, and between the MAF switch and the COR, and so forth.

I would try to find the source of the contamination first, though. Unless you stop that, the rest is not important. YET!
Good luck
Pat☺

 

The gas tank is unbelievably perfect, nothing but shiny metal on the inside

 

What's a COR?

Edit: "Circuit Open Relay"

Never had one go bad on me. Would be interesting if this is the issue.