KTJO 4x4 rivnut gun with the 5th Generation Driver Side Grab Handle/A Pillar

Has anyone used the included rivnut gun and supplied rivnut for the 2022? I'm waiting for some advise and or a video before I install mine. It looks like you only get one chance to get it right on the lower attach point.

 

I have installed plenty of rivnuts on aircraft. You could look up rivnut installations on YouTube and watch a few installations. Personally, I prefer the install tool sold by McMaster Carr. Once you get the proper rivnut specified in the installation - then you can determine the proper tool from McMaster Carr based on the thread pitch of the rivnut. It is possible to drill out (carefully) a bad installation of a rivnut if necessary.

 

Thanks. Having to drill it out after a bad install is exactly what I'm worried about.

 

Understand, but it is something that can be fixed.

 

Very true. I'll take a look at McMaster Carr and practice a few times.

 

Let us know how it goes with pictures. I'm contempleting one for my self.

 

What grab handle install procedure are you referencing? I've seen the bracket mod write up by the dude over at T4R.org but not familiar with this one.

 

I'm thinking this mod, although I haven't seen it done with a rivnut tool:

 

I was looking at this implementation myself:

 

That's the method I used for my installation shown above.

 

The OP was referring to installing the kit from KTJO from the link below. The kit provides a grab handle, new A-pillar cover that mates to the grab handle along with hardware. The install requires installing one rivnut in an existing hole in the a-pillar and the grab handle bolts to an existing threaded hole and the new rivnut. Looks like a simple install…


https://www.ktjo4x4.com/products/co...ver-s-side-grab-handle-w-a-pillar-pre-order-1

Cheers,
Bob

 

There is a silver "trigger" on the rivnut gun in the kit. I'm not sure what it does or how it works. Also, the supplied rivnut is not like what you normally see on rivnut gun videos. I'm sure it works fine, but you've only got one chance to get it right, and then you get to drill it out.

The kit I received is new for the 2022, and the quality looks excellent. I think 2Toys advise is good, but it will cost you a few bucks if you don't already own a rivnut gun. Since I've never put a rivnut in before, I want to practice a few times. I haven't done the research or gone to ACE Hardware to buy a bag of these things like the one that came in the kit, but it's on my list of things to do.

I'm not excited about disconnecting the battery, but I think that's absolutely necessary from a safety standpoint.

 

If anyone is considering ordering from this company “ktjo 4x4” beware they are shady and have been banned from other forums due to their shadiness including this forums sister page.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-bowl-lights.642703/page-43#post-24772398

 

Fair warning - that is a very different kind of rivnut, and it likely may not work with the tooling from McMaster Carr. Personally, I find that rivnut a bit scary in the quality department.

 

I do like the pre-molded A pillar trim. Rivnuts are not that hard to install but would have to put my eyes on this particular one. Curious if this can be combined with the bracket from the other method.

 

The rivnut doesn’t look like regular rivnut that requires ton of leverage to install. Instead of being a cylinder that needs to be squeezed, it has three strips of metal that will fold as it sets. It looks more like a drywall anchor and should require less force to install which means more accuracy.
Having said that I think this is adequate for the job. Between the factory mounting point and this, they’ll provide enough strength to pull your weight occasionally.

 

After reading through part of that thread, I wouldn't order a plastic washer from KTJO 4x4. They would probably charge $60 shipping.

 

I was going to do it but then my if it ain't broke don't f****** fix it logic kicked in. Toyota says we don't need driver side grab handles on the a pillar. Or tow hooks because it's not a tow truck

 

We don't 'need' them on the passenger side, either, but there they are.

 

As a person with years of aircraft structural repair experience, I would not trust that rivnut with anything more than hanging a small picture. The small cost to use a real aluminum solid rivnut is worth it to have a grab handle one could be confident in using. It will be interesting to see what your experience with this turns out to be.

 

Yeah I put those things in the same class as a command hook flexi seal and sham wows

 

You really do want to practice first on similar metal thickness where you can see both sides of the sheet. Obviously scrap metal will be ideal. It's way too easy to go full gorilla and ruin a rivnut. There is very much a "feel" for the tool and how much pressure it takes to deform the insert. Also it helps to visualize what's happening on the blind side of the insert to understand just how far is enough.

I'm not familiar w/ the style depicted above, but they should have some sort of rating. Also thickness of the metal will factor into that too. I'm a fan of a true rivnut as well fyi.

 

Amazon sells a nice cheap actual riv nut tool with a ton of different size, actual riv nuts. Worth looking on there before installing whatever that cheap nut is

 

I'm taking this man's advise. Oh, and BTW, shipping was $90!

 

Shipping was $18 for me. Not sure why some had shipping costs that high. I know some who have just used a normal rivnut vs what comes with it so I don't really see an issue.

 

The kit, with the exception of the rivnut, seems to be worth the price. The company on the other hand, has mixed reviews. Those on this forum who have ordered from them may have more information.

 

I picked up one of those Amazon rivnut tools along with a handful of assorted steel rivnuts. I'd suggest it is worth getting the feel for the force required to properly set a rivnut in a piece of scrap, particularly with steel rivets. There is quite a bit of tension involved and the mandrels are hardened steel to withstand this. Even then you can over stress the mandrel and fracture it. And then you'll be ordering hardened steel thread rod to replace it.

Also drilling out botched aluminum rivnuts set in a steel sheet is probably not much cause for concern as the softer AL material tends to cut away before the steel such that the hole isn't enlarged. But steel rivnuts are more problematic. Also there is a potential problem when the rivnut isn't tightly clinched to the surface, it may spin when trying to drill it out. And unless you can hold it with pliers on the backside you're in for more work..

 

I imagine that if you did have to drill out an installed rivnut in the A-pillar frame, say in the wrong location, but tight to the metal, with no access to the back side, the inside flattened part would fall down inside the frame once drilled out...though probably not that big of a deal...