Fridge Slider Install Questions

Hey All,

I have a SetPower AJ50 and I'm planning on ordering the slider for it. I have a few questions as to how to mount it to the cargo area of my T4R.

Why do some folks mount/bolt it to a piece of plywood instead of mounting/bolting it direct to the T4R?

If you are mounting/bolting it to a piece of plywood, are you mounting the plywood directly to the T4R then the slider to the plywood?

If needed to drill into the T4R, how do I go about it? I don’t have a rear sliding cargo tray

 

My 4R has the slide out tray. I took out the slide out tray and installed an Aiden James slide out board to the existing rails that my slide out tray was on. I then secured my fridge to board, for which it was made. By mounting it to the board you can slide the fridge out. If you don't have the slide out tray, you would still likely want to mount a fridge to rails so the fridge can slide out for more accessibility.

 

would it be best to mount the rails directly to the 4Runner (drill thru the carpet) or drill a piece of plywood to the 4Runner and then bolt the rails to the plywood? Any benefit of doing one or the other?

 

Underneath the carpet is just foam. Depending on how heavy your fridge, plus gear you carry, it probably won't sit level after awhile. Something like a base plate will help support the load and keep things level

 

So the benefit of a base plate for us at least is we mounted ours into already installed factory threaded holes. Then bolted out fridge and slide to the base plate along with our drawer. It creates less holes and a more stable platform for changing it up in the future. Locating the factory holes is easy if you’re inclined and don’t mind punching a small hole into the factory sheet metal covering them. Here is a picture of our baseplate installed.

with this baseplate installed. We then installed our boxes for the fridge and dual drawers directly to the baseplate. This setup did not last long as it just limited the space too much. but taking it out was as simple as taking a few bolts out leaving the platform still in tact still looking as good as before.

When we decided on how the finished and current setup would be installed in the 4R it couldn’t have been easier with the base plate. Put the slide where we wanted it then mark and drill our holes, add some t nuts to the underside and remount the base plate then mount the fridge and new drawer in. Easy as pie.

long story short you don’t need a base plate but if you are mounting accessories or say a drawer and a fridge would you rather have a bunch of holes through your floor or none?

 

This is exactly what I imagined. Mind if I ask for your specs? dimension of base plate, bolts used to mount it to factory holes, how you located the factory holes, etc?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT3TWfTZ5xU&t=1s

 

While mark and merrys video was a great one. Mounting the platform was actually a lot easier and less complicated for us than how they did there’s. They did a lot of angle cuts and tools the average joe doesn’t have. I believe all I did was was some scrap 1x4 for supports, 4 m8 bolts (factory thread size) and a 33 1/3x 41 1/4 board. I have the measurements I think in my build thread. The hardest part of our entire install was unbolting one of the exhaust heat shields to access the back passenger rivnut and snaking my hand around/near the fuel tank to find the driver one. As you can see in our picture if you zoom in it butts up nicely to the angled piece in the back for the tie downs.

 

yep that's why I wanted to know how you did it, I didn't want to remove that piece or have to deal w/ angles. Do you have a link to your build thread? I tried looking thru your profile, but didn't see anything

 

I just used a piece of 3/4” oak plywood and used 3 anchor points to the body then bolted the fridge slide to that. Solid as I could hope for. Also built a slide out and I didn’t want a lot of holes in the body itself

 

I built a base plate to mount my slide out on. I didn't want to do anything to the interior that's not 100% reversible. I use existing tiedown points to hold it in place. I also raised my base plate to match the rear seats when they are fold down, so everything is level. I sleep in the back of my 4runner when camping, and the hump was a back killer. Bonus to being raised, I was able to add in a small pull out table to cook on.

 

I'm liking this idea, what did you guys use to anchor it down to the existing tie down points (I'm assuming the existing D-Rings in the front and back)?

 

I actually used self tapping sheet metal screws into the body in the rear drivers side corner and then two more behind the rear seats and anchored it to the body.

 

Behind the seats I used to slightly longer 10mm bolts in the stock tiedown locations, like the AJC gear plate. I counter sunk them into the wood so they sit flush. At the tail gate, I used hooks on turn buckles and attached to the D-rings. for my slide, I used t-nuts/blind nuts on the bottom to bolt the slide down with. I wanted to be able to completely remove the fridge and slide, for hauling purposes.

I could do a small writeup on it soon. I'll be pulling it out of the truck this weekend to add L-track for tie down points. I could do it then.

 

Let me know if you do, I'm interested to read it.

 

This is by far the best setup I've ever seen! It's very similar to what I am doing with mine now.

 

all wonderful setups, but for what i'm looking for: i'm going to just get a board cut out and anchor it the way aiden james is doing so. going to try this out and if needed, i'll probably customize some brackets to slide over existing tie down points and call it a day.

 

Good morning everyone. Let me start by saying I really like this set up. I especially like how the sides flare around the console area. I was thinking of doing something very similar to this but need a bit of help if you could be so kind.
The bolts that you used in the flared out area around the console, what size are those bolts? I'm assuming they are M-6 but what length are they? If they are not M-6 did you convert to imperial? I'm just trying to find out what length I would need. I found the bolts for the rear (closest to the seat). Any input would be super helpful.

 

I have an SR5 premium so the third seat adds a bit of a challenge. Since my 4Runner is my fishing truck, I needed some extra room as well so I built a platform and have my Setpower RV45D on a slide. The platform is removable and give me some extra storage underneath for some of my gear.
Platform was built with MDF but I wanted some extra insurance for the weight of the fridge, so I placed a piece of birch plywood on top to mount the slide. It is all held in with turnbuckles to the factory cargo mounts. Obviously it has some weight, so the turnbuckles are there more to prevent sliding around than anything.