What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

G zilla brackets and awning. And some hardware to make limb risers

 

I’d mount that resi on the frame, I would have that thing knocked off there first time out? It that just a plastic clip?

 

May pop in. Mines done that hitting the ground and it all went back in, Maby not tho

 

Time for a steel bumper. Use the insurance to put a little more coverage around your ride. A couple suggestions:

- hefty fabs (aluminum rear bumper for light weight and stronger than plastic)
- C4 (steel bumper, heavier but stronger).
- fix/replace plastic and dents and just wait for it to happen again.

 

Someone backed onto me at a few weeks ago. Same damage. 1 well placed self-tapping screw under the edge of the light fixed mine. One clip went back in, the top was broken. Hence the need for the screw. Can’t even tell now.

 

Sorry to drum up an older post …. Im curious in this. Was metal or plastic mesh guard used? Also more importantly, how is it retained on the back side of the grille?
zip ties is all i can think of but i dont see any in the pic.

contemplating this is why askin….

 

Other people had mentioned this. It's aluminum. I'll look into that...

 

Eibach Springs TRD PRO and Baja Designs Ditch Lights





Thanks @dcsleeper408 for the install

 

Decided that I want to put my winch 12v lead through a switch. Dont like the idea of my winch being hot all the time.

Found a nice 300amp continous/700amp cranking rated switch at napa for 35bucks. But I needed to figure out a mount for it. After some head scratching, I came up with this using 1/8 steel stock I had around:











Pic is kind of dark, but it basically mounts inside the battery tie down strap, and uses one of the tie down bolts to hold it down (i have a bolt beneath the bolt holding it down to help locate and lock it down). I can close the hood with no interference. Just need to paint the mount and wire everything up, but too damn cold out lol

 

did you have to bmc?

 

Not yet since i haven't decided if I'm going to keep the adapters. If i do keep em then yes i would need to do bmc. In normal street driving it slightly rubs the driver side bm on full lock going reverse. Haven't tried offroad yet but it will be much worse and pass side will most likely rub too so bmc is a must.

 

Link to Napa part? I wouldn’t mind doing that as well because my winch caused some electrical problems when it wasn’t even in use.

 

Couple of little piddly accents finally got around to putting in over the last few days.

 

Got mine from Amazon

CoCsmart Battery Disconnect Switch, 12V-48V Battery Isolator Switch Master Power Cut Off Kill Switch Waterproof Marine Switch for Car RV Boat Truck ATV Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPZDSY1?_encoding=UTF8

 

Thank you. I will have to continue shopping. Looks like I need a minimum of 350amps but at least I got a basis to begin looking.

 

I have the Ironman 12000lb winch. According to the specs sheet it says…
Motor: 6.4HP / 4.1KWPower:12VDC

I calculated 342amps. Figured a minimum of 350amps is required.

 

MY GAWD!!!!!!!!!!!

I will never, ever wait this long before checking out new posts on this thread. Just went thru 35+ pages to catch up.
Don't you people have anything better to do? *grin*

Pic 1: Remote oil filter relocation
Pic 2: Engine I swapped into my 4Runner....., no. Not really. Swapped into an AWD Safari LOL
Pic 3: CB antenna installed on my Victory bumper
Pic 4: Relocated tag and camera from the spare to the tailgate. Trying to remove the spare on a dark road would have been hindered by the camera/plate bracketry
Pic 5: Installed Rago mount, radio and antenna SWR/PWR/Tuner, compliments my T-9 head unit
Pic 6: CB speaker neatly tucked away next to rear-view mirror with 50lb double-sided tape

 

I looked for ever for a decent high amperage switch that didnt cost 100 bucks. I walked into Napa, and asked if they had any, and he pulls this one out, says it’s the last one, discounted price. I lucked out!

 

Here's a decent 500 amp one usually used for trunk mounted batteries to pass NHRA track inspections:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1048

BTW, how strong of a winch can you put in before the amount of pull becomes too much for a 4R and might cause damage?

 

The Napa one I have says 300amp continuous, 700 for 10 seconds, and 1000amps for 5 sec.

It would probably suffice for most pulls, but if you have a long heavy pull, I would want to use a snatch block if possible to reduce load, which is probably a good idea regardless.

I have no trust in winches reading stories of contacts getting welded closed and running continuously, other nearby remotes activating your winch, electrical issues you mentioned, etc. So I want to set mine up with some way to kill it. The switch introduces a failure point as well, so I’m still wary, but at least by running with the winch switched off, then I dont have to worry about the thing switching on while Im driving down the interstate lol.

In use however, still gonna use it with a suspicious eye.

 

Thanks for this link! Nice looking switch, gonna have to keep it in mind if mine starts to melt lol.

 

If I had a winch, I would use quick connect battery terminals and just leave it disconnected until needed.

 

Any recommendations? I did consider this as well, but I have poor google fu and didn’t see any that looked like they would pass the necessary current.

Also, I’d assume I’d need a big crimper for putting on terminals on 4ga wire, or are there kits available with different lengths?

 

Simple and effective

 

I'm at a disadvantage since I don't have my 4R yet to look at the battery terminals. Usually there's a stud on them where you can add ring terminals to. What I did to make a 1-0 ga battery cable was to use a lug of the proper size for the wire and crimp it with this tool then I soldered it to be safe and used shrink tube over the crimped/soldered area. It's supposed to be good down to 6 ga:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-0685pt

Here's some ring terminals for 4 ga wire:

https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical-connectors/ring-terminals/for-wire-gauge~4/

 

Info on this please?

 

Who makes these?

 

You shouldn't have to pay a dime. Her insurance should restore your vehicle back to its' original condition. If they're cutting corners, might be worth it to get your insurance company involved to advocate on your behalf as they don't want you to settle for sub-par repairs of the asset they're insuring.