Help Buying 2001 4Runner

Hello I have the opportunity to buy a 2001 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 Sport. For $ 4300.

344,000 Miles. I am scared for that number.

Amazing Interiors.
Locking Rear Differential.
Mud Tires
Time Belt Replaced.
Owner says that all services were done but he is the 3rd owner I guess is difficult to claim that.
He also claims that the mileage is because his son was commuting from EL Paso Texas to las cruces New Mexico daily. that's 92 daily miles.

What you guys think about it.
I Load pictures so you can see it.

Thank you.

 

I think the best advice you can get is from the pre-purchace inspection tech vs us on the forum. I think that $100 or so is more valuable than our comments.(maybe)

Edit -
I don't see locking rear diff as per pics. Is that locking center diff is for locking rear diff?

 

Thats a locking center diff, not rear. The rear diff was discontinued after 2000, and all 4x4 4runners after 2000 had a center differential (aka multi-mode).

The this system is unique for offering 2wd, AWD, and 4wd (most vehicles only do 2 of those)

 

Thank you guys. I just bought it.

 

Well its in the desert and you bought it.

But hows the frame look.

 

Solid. No Rust. There was a little bit of rust on the hitch and the rear bumper. But I'm thinking that both are going to be removed in the near future.

 

$3.5k would be ideal, especially at that mileage and the fact that you're going by the owner's word.

Maintenance is one thing, and it's nice to know the timing belt has been done, but there are plenty of items that most don't consider as maintenence until it breaks or leaks -

Radiator
PCV valve
Front diff breather
Rear diff breather
Upper ball joints
Lower ball joints
Tie rod ends
Inner tie rods
Upper control arm bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Front sway bar end links
Steering rack bushings
Rear upper control arm bushings
Rear lower control arm bushings
Rear panhard bar bushings
Rear sway bar end links
Transmission filter
Valve cover gaskets

And whatever else I'm forgetting off the top of my head

 

I would change all the fluids unless you have actual paper records of it being done within the recommended interval. That means front and rear differential, transfer case, brake fluid, automatic transmission fluid, coolant, engine oil, and power steering. Many people remember the engine oil, but they neglect to change all the other fluids and their usually disgusting when you get around to doing them.

Also grease the zerks on the front and rear driveshafts. If you think its been off road, check the top of the rear shock mounts, there is a indentation that can collect dirt and mud and the small drainholes are inadequate, its typical for even clean frames to have rust start there since its way up out of sight and mind.

 

I would also throw in to change out the brake fluid, unless it is the same color as what comes out of a new bottle. It absorbs moisture over time, and cause brake failure. Easy enough, just make absolutely certain the main reservoir never gets low enough during the whole process that the master cylinder sucks air in.

Another thing to check, at least, are the diff breathers, especially the rear. If it gets clogged it can cause high pressure inside the diff, and it will force oil out the seals, and into the rear brakes. Messes the shoes up badly. Makes them swell and the brakes stick, pulsate, and so forth. They also don't slow the vehicle like they should. Look for oil coming out the rear brake drums. Dead give away. You need to change the rear axle oil seals, and the brake shoes. Not expensive, really, but drum brakes are a royal PITA.
It saves a lot of expense, and aggravation, to keep the diff breather(s) clean and clear of dirt, mud, sand, whatever. If you plan on off roading, you might consider breather extensions. Very cheap and easy to install. Keeps them from getting clogged up when you go through mud holes, water crossings, etc.

Just a couple more thoughts.
Pat☺