Brakes and Rotors

I will be replacing brake pads and rotors real soon and have started to research options (I am at 90k). I do a lot of off-roading so I know to avoid slotted/drilled rotors. Currently contemplating Powerstop Z36 pads and Raybestos rotors but also hear Akebono pads and Brembo rotors are other good options. I live in the CO mountains and have added a lot of weight to my T4R so I want the best brakes I can get for the money (don't need to spend a gazillion dollars).

Input from other who have changed and/or upgraded your pads and rotors?

 

Scotty likes Akebono pads.

Why not just go with OEM?

They went 90k miles, right?

 

I've posted in other threads, but I have just changed my factory parts to Advics rotors and pads (which were the factory brand). Very happy with them.

 

OEM.

 

I ordered OEM rotors but they seem to be taking forever. I will be using Hawk pads in place of the OEM pads though.

 

Since you mentioned it, I did the Powerstop Z36 route. All 4 corners. New calipers, drilled rotors cause I can, heavy duty pads. Install was fairly simple, just make sure you verify rotor size and bleed the brake system right afterwards. That I am aware of first and second owner never touched my brakes, so I swapped at about 100k. Now that Ive replaced all and done a fluid flush, feels excellent and stops very quickly when I need it to. (I also have extra weight between tools, full steel skids, and V8)

 

OEM issue is still pricing - online toyota parts (not dealer) appears to be roughly $450 pads and rotors. You can obviously spend a similar amount on the very high end products but will save at least $100 on some of the other quality components (Akebono, Brembo, Powerstop, Raybestos). I read that Akebono makes the Toyota OEM pads but not sure if that is true. I was originally thinking about trying to oversize but they evidently don't make the TRD Big Size for the 4Runner. In addition to weight and mountains I am also part of a 4x4 Recovery group which means we do some dead towing from time to time.

 

From what I've read on this forum and the other T4R forum, it sounds like most people are getting nearly a 100k miles before their first brake job. That's sounds really good to me. Obviously some owners may get less if they are running heavier.

My understanding is that the original rotors can be turned at least once. Sounds like you guys are replacing the rotors on the first brake job. I was wondering why?

 

Not sure if my rotors will need to be replaced or not - have to pull things apart to see. I don't have any warping but I really can't afford to have everything apart while I take rotors to have them turned. So worse case I have an extra set for the next time

 

You guys probably already know this, but here's a good video on brake bleeding.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jpiXOBRkZs4

 

You have to be careful applying this guy's advice elsewhere. Toyota may be ok with just a general DOT 3 (4runner) or DOT 4 fluid. But I just did the brakes on my wife's Ford, and they specify it has to be a DOT 4 Class 6 fluid. Around here that was kind of hard to find, the stores mostly only carry a DOT4 Class 5 fluid. I ended up having to get Ford's Motorcraft brand. The difference between the Class 5 and Class 6 is that the Class 6 has a much lower viscosity at low temperatures. Using the more viscous Class 5 may screw with the traction control/ABS system, and I didn't want to find out if that's true or not.

This time around I decided to buy one of those vacuum brake bleeders. I hated it. The fitting/tubing would not seal well on the bleeder screw, and all those bubbles in the line made me uncomfortable since I prefer to know there is no air coming out of the brake line. That's just the way I was taught while doing a full brake line replacement. I know it should be fine for just a fluid flush, but I still didn't feel right seeing that. I tried putting some grease on the outside of the vacuum fitting/tubing to stop the air bubbles getting sucked in but it didn't work. Then the fitting/tube just popped off the bleeder completely, the collection cup tipped over, brake fluid splattered, and I got pissed off. In the end I resorted to the manual 2 person method.

It was also interesting to hear from that video about the differences with doing the brakes on a hybrid. Never had to do work on one of those yet.

 

Good points, I agree about those clear plastic lines not cooperating as they should.

I figured since this is a Toyota forum I was safe posting. But as you said, if there are Ford drivers on this forum, please disregard the video.

 

SO I tackled my brakes last week - 94K. When I pulled the front wheels off I still have 6mm on the pads and rotors look good so I left the front alone. When I pulled the rear I was down to 3mm so I went ahead and replaced the pads - rotors still looked good. I ended up buying Akebono PRO-Act Ceramic pads (had read that they supplied Toyota OEM pads). Will see how long they last.

 

I just replaced my pads that were very worn at 78k miles with Autozone gold ceramic pads. Very happy with them. Pad swap was very easy no need to remove calipers on the front just slide the new pads in. The back pads you did have to remove the caliper but still very easy to do.

 

Yeah - back was easy. For those unsure there is a really good video by Wanderlost Overland out on You Tube with details on front and back. When I go to do my fronts I will need to have the front rotors turned as I was seeing some wear.

 

At this mileage, unless you in UAE, at list one piston caliper stuck. Change them for next 90k miles.