Spark on front camera install causes big problem. Help?

New to the forums but seeking any help or insight. I own a 2018 4Runner TRD Pro & was doing an anytimecamera front/rear install and briefly shorted a wire to ground while doing a dry run install. 1st indicator was the A/C & fan went silent along with all indicators of power on the climate control. The 10A A/C fuse under the dash had indeed blown which I replaced but it did not fix the problem. And along with the A/C, all power windows no longer work even though the power mirrors and door locks work. But the rear window works. Also, there is no indications of power to the rear view mirror, heated seats, rear window and mirror defrosters, or the power inverter for the rear outlet. Have removed every fuse and checked them. Everything else seems to work including the entertainment unit where all the work was being done. I really thought this would be an easy fix but at this point I really think I'm missing something like a major distribution relay that controls power to so many things. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

which wire did you short to gnd ? I thought anytime camera is plug and play ?

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! Electrical.... can't help ya out, sorry.

 

There’s the under dash fish box and the under hood fuse box. Check all the fuses (just run down them with a test light), if all is well bust out a wiring diagram and figure out what all the dead shit has in common and start checking the circuit for power and ground.

 

Update: On the first question, I believe the wire I shorted to ground was the trigger wire to the switch that allows you the ability to switch between front and rear cameras. And the install is not exactly a plug and play. you have to route several wires and connect them to a dash mounted switch along with wiring for switch illumination.

Latest update on trouble shooting.

1. Performed continuity checks on ALL fuses in the engine bay and under the dash (did just visuals yesterday) including removing the big 30/50/80A and checking them out.
2. Used an OBD tester to check out engine functions, alternator charging, and battery charge/capability, and any fault codes. Alternator checked good, battery checked good, and no codes.
3. I have not checked out the 140A fuse because it looks good through the window and if it was blown, there would be all kinds of Christmas lights on the dash and more problems than i have now....if that's possible.
4. Ran a power probe on every fuse ............ and all voltages are good including ALL the items identified as not working (Heard me right); Windows, A/C and fan, Seat heaters, Mirror and rear defroster, power inverter, rear view mirror, etc. I've yet to go to individual plugs but have a good guess at what I'll see.

At this point, I'm fast approaching the haul to the dealership unless a night in shining armor online comes to my rescue.

I've worked multiple wiring issues before but this one really has me miffed. Its like that little spark tripped a breaker or link somewhere I'm not finding. And to add insult to injury, the wire was from a patch out cable going to the entertainment head.......that is working perfectly fine. Go figure.

What I really need is access to a good set of Toyota electrical schematics which I've yet to find. Any recommendations ?

 

Have you tried disconnecting for an hour ?

 

I did do a disconnect. Actually, i pulled the shorting pin which i had read about on an earlier post; the one that looks like a fuse. I left it out overnight. However, maybe i should just do a battery disconnect for a period of time.

 

Try the battery

 

Pm me your email I have all the electrical schematics

 

Have you tried putting it in rice?

 

Here's lists of the cabin fuses and engine compartment fuses. Maybe this will help.

 

Thanks to all. Big Blue (as my grand daughter calls it) is back to operational status. Will pass on the fix details once i get things back together, finish my humble pie, and take the last 50 lashings from my wife.

 

Glad it’s resolved. Please let us know what fixed it and what was the shorted and caused the issue. This way others will hopefully avoid this.

 

Okay all. Here's the scoop. As stated in the original post, my problem started when i was doing a rough hookup of an anytimecamera setup (specifically the dash switch) in the drivers side floor and accidentally shorted 2 of the wires together. Immediately the A/C went out resulting in an Oh S#@% moment. Keep in mind that at that time, the A/C was my only focus so I looked up the fuses for the A/C an immediately located a blown fuse; #14 in the above diagram. It is ECU-IG #1.

This is where the train took a dirt road. After replacing the fuse, i then discovered that not only was the A/C still not working, but I also did not have power windows, seat heaters, defrosters, etc. etc. ..... That when my trek began as outlined above.

Now, I'm an engineer by trade but prior to the AF sending me to college I was in aircraft maintenance, specifically avionics. So this wasn't my 1st rodeo in tracing or hunting down electrical gremlins. And nothing about the amount of failed accessories seemed to add up for such a little spark with a wire tied to the head unit which by the way was working perfectly normally after the incident. And it made less and less sense throughout the next 48 hours as I trace signals and performed continuity checks and probes on about every square inch of both the cabin and engine bay fuse boxes.

All that consumed my entire weekend. This morning, I was about 30 minutes away from biting the bullet and going to the dealership when I decided to look at the schematics that SaltyFrank emailed to me. And discovered that all of the accessories had one big item in common; Fuse ECU-IG #1.

So, I went what the hell. I've checked everything at least 2 or 3 times already but I'll try another new fuse for ECU-IG#1. Call it a Hail Mary.

Now ........ when you are looking at the cabin fuse diagram, orientation is essential since its basically upside down. But what even more important........is that you put the right fuse in the right slot.

So with fuse in hand, i go marching out to vehicle reciting to myself (memorizing the above fuse diagram), Fuse #14, middle row, big 30A fuse, 2 regular fuses, then a space, then #14. However, that was not the configuration. It was 30A, 3 regular fuses, then a spare, followed by remaining fuses. Unbelievable!

Yes, 48 hours earlier when replacing the one blown fuse, I put the replacement in the spare slot instead of the correct #14 slot.

Once moved to correct slot, everything operated fine, including the aftermarket front/rear anytimecamera.

Once again, thanks to all who chimed in with help, tips, links, and schematics.

I will now accept any zingers.

Later

 

Here's mine: why didn't you disconnect the battery before beginning any electrical work? Granted, it sounds like you were running the AC because it was probably unbearably hot and humid, but still... Maybe wait until night time cools things off a bit naturally

Glad that you got things operational again. I have the same kit. I heard the newer ones are a bit easier to run wiring for, as the RCA plug no longer needs to go through the firewall?

 

Glad you got it all resolved!!!

 

Yeah, lying on your back in the driver footwell looking up at the fuse box is not ideal. But glad you got it figured out.

I refer to this photo for mine.