Changing the setting on a Bilstein 6112?

So a quick question for the mechanically skilled out there..

I ordered & received a set of Bilstein 6112 adjustable shocks for my 4R Limited. I thought I was doing the right thing by having the company I ordered them from assemble the strut & shock & requested that they assemble it at the 2" lift setting, which they did.

Now I've learned that I do not want to go with 2" of lift but instead 1.2".

So here's my question..To readjust the setting to 1.2 from 2", can I use a spring compressor, then readjust the setting, then remove the spring compressor. OR, use the spring compressor & remove the top hat (disassembling the whole thing), then readjust & then reassemble???

Not a mechanic, just asking...

 

You will need to do things in this order:

1) use a spring compressor to compress the spring

2) remove the nut from the top of the shock (no need to touch the 3 outside nuts on the top hat)

3) slide the shock out from between the spring

4) slide the bottom spring perch off the shock and out of the way (note its orientation)

5) reposition the snap ring on the shock to the lower setting

6) slide that bottom spring perch back on the shock (make sure it's the correct orientation and not upside down)

7) slide the shock back into the spring and make sure the spring is positioned properly on the bottom and top spring perches

8) re-tighten that nut for the top of the shock

9) loosen the spring compressor

 

I would take them to a shop if it was me and have them do it because spring compressors scare me.

 

I had opposite. Preassembled for 1.5 lift then wanted more lift a year later. Then, my spring compressor wouldn't fit on my 6112. I had to be creative

 

you can always try the NO SPRING COMPRESSOR method, plenty of posts out there on it,worked for me!

 

Sorry to be off topic, but how do you like the 6112's?

I'm looking for a reasonably priced lift, and thinking 6112/5160 set-up. Digressive valving sounds like exactly what I want, in theory.

 

They ride great. I didn't feel any difference between mine and a friends 4R with Icons on gravel fire roads last year.

 

I have the 6112/5100 combo paired w the Bilstein B12 rear spring. Absolutely love the set up, especially the 6112. Strongly consider the 5100 over the 5160 as many, many people have had issue w the reservoir of the 5160 leaking. Additionally the 5100 has a lifetime warranty

 

I'm very happy so far!

 

Did the B12 give you 1” of lift per their spec? I am debating whether to go a little higher in the back in order to give me better load capacity should I end up adding a steel bumper. I’d prefer stock height, and aluminum, but the choices in aluminum rear bumpers are pretty minimal. How much lift did you give the front to level out with the rear?

 

I went with BIL36-281817 springs in the rear. Advertised height is 1-1.5" which seemed odd to see a range. That said the truck sits higher in the rear when empty vs when I load it to the gills with heavy cargo (800lb+) There is another spring that states a flat 1.5" and another that states 2.2" of lift. With the factory rake being so exaggerated I wasn't willing to risk an ass high look even after adding 6112 in the front and installing them at the top ring (which I did). At this point I dont have plans for added weight like drawers or a steel bumper, however if I do, I can simply swap the rear springs for another version or more likely, go with a dobinson hd spring.

I came to this decision with the input of the boys at the Truck Shop in Miramar, San Diego. My truck sits level. That was my goal and I'm very happy. Additionally I am also very happy with the ride. I'll add pics after posting this...

 

These are the 1.5" heavy load springs. I didn't measure before and after, but I'm pretty sure I gained the advertised height. I did 2.3" up front with +150-200# springs and I also think this was pretty accurate.

Sorry I can't really help. I planned on measuring, but I forgot

 

Question in regard to this - say you have these already installed, and want to change the setting on the strut, but don't want to mess with a spring compressor at home...so when you take this strut assembly to a shop, that has one of those industrial rack type spring compressors, to have something like this done, what is involved in removing the complete strut assembly from the truck?

 

In this scenario, I'd just recommend doing the no spring compressor method since you're already in there. This way you can disassemble the coil from the strut, change the strut setting yourself just by moving the snap ring, and then put everything back on.

-or-

If you really wanted to remove the entire coils/strut assembly as a whole and take it somewhere, you would do what this guy does from 3:56 - 6:54. He does other things that I wouldn't (like use one of those sketchy spring compressors), but his info for removing the entire strut assembly front the truck is solid.

https://youtu.be/dEnMvblCHyo

 

Perfect, thanks!

You're right - if you're going to go through all the steps you would for the no compressor method, why bother removing the whole strut assembly with the top hat..?

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead... currently researching the crap out of this issue because I am about to hit the order now button... From what ive read they began to leak because people go over 2" lift in the rear and they weren't designed for that.

Any truth to that?

 

Fyi, @Barcelona Trail hasn't logged in here since January. Also, I am unable to tag his username, so he might have deleted his account.

This isn't a direct answer to your question, but I have the 6112/5100 setup and am quite satisfied. The 5160 is basically a 5100 with a reservoir. The added reservoir will have better heat dissipation, but handle the same.

So, unless you're doing things that will cause the 5100 to over-heat, you won't benefit from the 5160 VS the 5100. If you're thinking you need the extra heat dissipation, it may be worth going with a bigger body rear shock.

Unfortunately, Bilstein doesn't seem to have a comparable rear shock to the 6112. This kinda sucks, IMO, as I'm quite happy with the 6112's. The 5100's are ok, but they don't seem to hold up to the 6112 in some situations.