Power draw while camping

New 4runner owner. I typically will camp for a week at a time out of my vehicle and I’m curious about how to avoid drawing down the battery. With the rear door/hatch light switches off, can it be left open at night when sleeping without drawing the battery down? With my old Expedition I would pull fuses for all interior lighting.

Also, from what I have read, it doesn’t look like there is a way to prevent the door courtesy lights from turning on. That means there will always be some drawdown when the doors are open. Correct?

Finally, when stargazing I really need to keep it as dark as possible. So, for the lights I can’t switch off, are there red LED options that allow for dimming their brightness? The discussions I’ve read want their lights as bright as possible. I need them red and very dim if not off.

Any tricks to share?

 

If you leave the rear hatch open the lights will time out, you’re good either way.

 

I had the same concern while camping with the rear gate open. The rear latch controls the rear lights and the dash light. I use a Phillips screwdriver and push the rear gate latch into the locked position. Lights go out. In the morning just reach up and pull the handle to open the latch. One warning though, don’t slam the gate shut with the latch closed.

 

Unless Toyota has changed the lights for 21 there is a on/ off switch on hatch light, same for map lights, overhead light between the front and rear seats at least for my 2020. In the off position they shouldn't draw any power.

 

"Tricks to share" - yes, but you need to be a little handy with electrical work. This

$20 Max 300A Heavy Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating for Golf Carts, Winch, Marine in Rush 12VDC

https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-S...t=&hvlocphy=9011780&hvtargid=pla-559820756133
is a 300 amp continuous duty relay which can be used to totally disconnect your battery - but doing so has consequences like loosing preset radio stations, clock setting and possible ECU memory tables. Back in the 70s (BMT - before modern technology) and the absence of a good anti-theft system, I installed one of these and had it setup that every time I pulled the key out of the ignition it would disconnect the ground circuit for the relay causing the battery to go completely offline.. until I re-inserted the key and pushed a momentary switch under the dash that would lock the relay that grounded the battery disconnect solenoid. Worked really well but, like I said, you need to be a little handy with electrics.

 

Bruh I've heard some dumb ideas before but I'm speechless.

 

A simple battery disconnect or a 10mm wrench on the battery cable can accomplish the same thing, but it’s not a relevant solution regardless.

 

I installed all Red LEDs for night photography, they draw far less current than the bulb types.

I replaced the 2 lights under the sun visors with white LEDs, just in case you need a white map light.

 

I'm new to the 4runner so take this with a grain of salt because I am just starting to learn myself. I have a 2021 as well.

I was playing the radio in mine with the back hatch open and after an hour (or maybe 2) the radio would turn itself off. I would turn to engine back on, get the tunes back, turn the engine off after a short while and in another hour or so the radio would die and I'd repeat the process. I'm guessing that it won't let you kill the battery but I'm just guessing here. I do keep a battery powered jumpbox when I travel just in case I need to jump myself.

 

Thanks for the input. Just got back from Yellowstone and Glacier. The Oregon Star Party is my next big adventure in just a few weeks. I’ll be trying out different scenarios to make sure I've got all the lights either turned off, shielded, or red. Again, I need it dim and red not bright and red - still looking for specific recommendations. Also, I’ll have a solar panel along to try to extend my deep cycle battery charge to power my scope, camera, and laptop for as long as possible. I could use that to charge the 4runner battery if I screw up and it gets drained.

 

Several of the interior bulbs are 168/194 bulbs. Try going to your local auto parts store or Amazon and getting a 2-pack of red LEDs. Try them in your door foot lights and overhead lights. They just may be dim enough for your use.
Philips 194RLED Ultinon LED Bulb (Red), 2 Pack

A vendor for the festoon type bulbs is superbrightleds.com

I’ve used their bulbs but check them out electrically and physically before installing. I’ve found a few where the solder or glass seal wasn’t good, which they will replace for you.

 

You're correct, the Runner is smart enough to know "battery is connected, Accessory power is on, [something] is using power, turn off after XX time" so it doesn't kill the battery. Mine does the same thing when I'm working too long with the doors kept open and the puddle lights stay on, eventually they just shut off.

 

These were a buck each and worked very well. They are polarized and only draw 1.5 Watt each

$10 Yorkim 194 LED Bulbs Red Super Bright New 5th Generation, T10 168 LED Bulb for Car Interior Dome License Plate Map Door Courtesy Lights W5W 2825, Pack of 10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SW3KTE/

They have a newer canbus design, same wattage.

https://www.amazon.com/Yorkim-Polarity-Newest-Generation-Interior-dp-B00NL4BPRE/

 

Thanks for the recommendations on the LED lighting. I ended up getting a set of 10 Oxilam red bulbs for 10.99 via Amazon. Just replaced the door lights and it was quick and simple. I think the brightness is fine (shouldn’t be overwhelming at a very dark location). I might end up replacing some of the other interior lighting as well.

Another plus with the LEDs is they don’t get hot. I covered an interior light in my old Expedition with black electrical tape on a previous star party trip and it melted the plastic diffuser (I think due to the trapped heat/IR). With these LEDs I can tape them over if I find the brightness too obnoxious without worrying.