RCI Transfer Case Crossmember for Skid Plate Problem?

Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased the RCI full skid plate set.

I was getting a head start in installing the cross member for the transfer case plate. I noticed there is a 1/4 gap between the cross member and the frame on the passenger side. The driver side sits flush. Attached 2 pictures of the drive and passenger side.

Anyone experience this?

Seems like a defect. Currently awaiting RCI's response.

 

Don't look right to me
Get a new one

 

Thanks, I'm hoping they can make it right without having to go through the process of getting this to fit correctly. Was hoping for quality work being made in USA. Ordered on 3/16 and arrived on 4/27, so was a good amount of waiting to get this.

Just needed 2nd opinions as to how bad this gap is. I was thinking of adding a shim.

Hopefully they will respond within 24 hours.

 

Didn’t have this gap when I installed my skids on my 2014 several years ago. Nor did I have it when I moved the skids to my 2021.

 

I reaally hope they dont say your 4runner frame rails are 1/2 inch wider than everybody else's 4runners. I say that partly joking, because I can kinda see that as an easy excuse.

 

Or maybe they will not be able to "replicate the issue"..................sorry could not resist as that is typical dealer response

 

First off, about RCI. I waited 7 weeks after my initial order to receive it, and they sent two transfer case plates instead of the whole setup/package I ordered.
While waiting on a lead time, I called and emailed 6 times without a response. Granted, this was last May and they were down for COVID, but at least an email response would be nice.
They finally sent me the proper replacement plate without issue, after another 3 weeks of waiting.

No gaps like yours, everything fit properly.

 

I don’t recall mine having a gap either, but I’ll get under it tonight and check, if I can remember.

 

Thanks everyone for your experiences. I sent another email without pictures in case the pictures caused the email to go to their Spam box. Hopefully they can respond within 3 days.

I really hate to have to build a shim for it.

If they ever reply or get back to me with a proper fitting crossbar, will update.

After purchasing Molle Panels with shelf from Rago Fabrication, i was hoping RCI would be just as good for skid plates if not better.

 

Same issue here with that crossmember going onto a 2018 two years ago. I’m happy with the skids. I have the tools, so I reworked the crossmember into something that fit and fastened much better. I never did contact RCI. Strange how some seem to fit others not.

 

Just got a reply back and this is what they wrote word for word "You may just need to torque down on the crossmember a little bit to close the gap as much as possible. These crossmembers are built in a vice like jig and they are all identical. This may just be a frame variation from Toyota that is slightly off spec."

I'm thinking tightening that bolt any further will damage the threads to attempt to close a 1/4" gap or even remotely close to it.

Best I can do is to install a shim between the frame and crossmember with an aluminum plate/sheet.

 

Yes, mine RCI had the gap. I ended up adding a piece of aluminum between the frame and the crossmember. I wasn’t going to wait again for them to send a new crossmember. If you don’t add something, the skid plate will not sit flush to the bottom and the bolt will not be be tight to the frame.

 

Sometimes quick fixes don't always work
That area is still a weak point in the armor
I'm not dogging ya man just looking out
You're better off taking it to a weld shop if you don't weld yourself and getting fixed
Look into getting a refund or at least a partial refund for the shotty work
Not saying your fix won't work but I (just me) wouldn't trust that area if it came down on a rock or a high curb at the mall

 

Hopefully this thread will help future buyers make the correct decision about buying the transfer case skid plate from RCI. Maybe the dimensions changed somewhere in the later years of the 5th gen or RCI's "vice like jig" is out of spec.

With RCI's response, looks like they don't care.

 

Called it!!! That is the same response I got from a roof crossbar manufacturer when I told them the crossbar I received touches the roof. Basically, it’s toyotas manufacturing variation that is the problem....hmmm maybe toyota doesnt have “vice-like jigs” in their multi- billion dollar factory.

But let’s assume toyota has huge dimensional variation that makes it impossible to correctly make aftermarket products like skids and roof crossbars. Then these aftermarket vendors and us customers both have a problem. We simply cannot assume any of the expensive stuff being sold to us will fit, or be fit for purpose.

If rci or anybody else cared they would design their products in such a way that assume there will be a large variation (oblong bolt holes, shim sets that dont weaken the part, tolerances that are more forgiving etc).

I like the RCI skid rails, and they are my shortlist.. has anyone heard any fitment problems with those?

 

No experience with RCI skid rails.

Just thinking about it, if it's true from RCI's perspective that its a Toyota issue. Then every other part would probably/must have to accommodate the extra 1/4" gap in between the body frame.

 

Yes, interesting observation. What are the chances that, with so much toyota variation, the only thing that would not fit is the that part. You would think that bolt hole alignment would be a problem on everything else too. Did they give you a measurement spec for the part so that you can measure it yourself to see if it is out of spec?

I guess as long as they give you a full refund, that is all you can ask for. I wouldn't hold your breath for partial credit if you have to "make it fit".

I was lucky I got a full refund for my crossbars, but it's disapointing having to start over on a search for a part. In my case, I did suggest to the manufacturer to disclaimer their parts by stating that they may not fit on all 4runners, but they thought I was being a little dramatic by saying that. I actually think that's just being honest, and would result in less frustration. If I knew my parts may not exactly fit going into the purchase, I'm going to complain less or maybe not at all if I have to redo something (by cutting, grinding, or adding/welding on additional material.

 

"What is vehicle build tolerance?

Vehicles are manufactured within a certain tolerance. For many years, a common build tolerance was 3 mm. ... As manufacturing technology has improved, many manufacturers build to a zero tolerance. This means that any of the control points must be precisely positioned during repairs."

"Vehicles are manufactured within a certain tolerance. For many years, a common build tolerance was 3 mm. I-CAR's Uniform Procedures for Collision Repair (UPCR) call for following manufacturer recommendations on tolerance. If no tolerance recommendations are given, then follow plus or minus 5 mm." (0.19685")

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/...or/article/21166902/basic-structural-analysis

Just the facts.

 

I installed mine about a week ago. It wasn't "perfectly" flush either but its absolutely rock solid, so I'm not worried about it going anywhere.

 

So mine is actually too wide unless I am just too dumb to figure out where it goes, it also seems like the already threaded hole may not work anyway. Has anyone else had an issue like this?

 

the corner zoomed in below is already at the frame, I don't think I can get it to go any higher, I initially started by trying on that spot but it didn't seem to be able to get that high. I can try it again tomorrow though.

 

That looks more appropriate then the one I was sent, if they don't respond to my email, i may reach out about that.

 

Local welder
Have them fix it
Rattle can it and callbit a day
Have cri cover the bill/reimbursement
Or wait on them

 

I have the RCI engine skids and the Rock Sliders they all fit perfect.
On the sliders they send you 24 bolts,12 for each side but on the driver's side there is actually 18 threaded holes you can bolt to if you want.
Bought 6 more bolts for that.
Helps to clean out the threads in the frame with a tap before you install.

 

There's no way on earth I'd take a new part, that costs as much as these do, to a local welder to have it "fixed". It doesn't even appear it's the correct part for his truck. That's just me.

 

I Hear ya
-For me- no big deal I'd chop it and weld it but you right for a part that int "cheap" should be bolt on
I'm inpatient I guess lol

 

^also
I too Didn't have issues with rci stuff
Sept for maybe not getting the link arm skids but they made it right
Hope they make yours right too OP
But you've always an option

 

Well it was indeed the wrong one and I have the correct one on the way with the wrong one being returned, it was actually a quick process.