Rear main seal help

Ok so I need to replace the rear main seal on my 95 4runner sr5 3.0 v6 . I am really just looking for any information about the job maybe some tips and I was curious if it is going to require me to drop the trans as I was told in may not have to depending on the placement of the seal, but I can’t find anything on YouTube about the 3.0 specifically. Any help in much appreciated

 

You will probably have to drop the transmission. Unless it is a terrible leak, I'd consider leaving it alone. Hire a professional.

I have a 2005 with 150,000 miles and I got a leak (few drips occasionally) from the RMS area. Two small drops a week on the cardboard in the garage doesn't bother me.

4runner starts and runs like brand new after 15 years. Never owned a car like this Toyota. Not a speck of rust on the painted body. OEM radiator, WP, exhaust system. Amazing.

Replaced the evaporator in the cabin and have 100% cold AC again. Evaporator core was $90 at Amazon and was a perfect fit. Had a professional shop do the job at a cost of $800.

OEM evaporator lasted 4 years and failed. Replacement evap lasted 9 years. Now with a new one for summer.

Replaced the AC compressor two years ago.

$270 Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch

Amazon.com: Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive (made in China)

I've never added any additives to the engine in 15 years.

 

There’s a pretty thorough thread on the subject....try searching.

 

You have to pull the trans.

The seal also lives in what I call a carrier plate which bolts to the engine and seals with RTV -- actually may have been a paper gasket from the factory. Most of what you'll read online will say to not disturb the plate if you don't need to. Thing is, you really don't KNOW if you "need to" 'cause it can be really hard to tell where it's actually leaking.

I contend that it is absolutely foolish to NOT re-seal the plate while in there and this should in fact simply be considered SOP when doing an RMS job on these engines.

It is also possible to get a sleeve kit for the crank if the seal has grooved it.

Now is the time to do your oil pan gasket if you feel that is also leaking.

Read this before asking more:
https://www.4runners.com/threads/replacement-engine-rear-main-leak.15537/page-2

 

Here's what it can look like when you remove that plate. Note paper gasket lower left. Paper gasket lower right. NO gasket on majority of upper radius. And it was NOT stuck to the plate, it was just gone although we found a few pieces floating around back on the block

Sooooo......that could (and was) causing a huge leak.

 

Thank you for the information

 

Here's a picture of the seal carrier plate in my lap. It's a single piece seal and requires the transmission be removed.

 

Looks like they updated a prior "scroll and slinger" design with a bolt-on seal.