Getting ready to order parts and start wrenching

New member here. Just getting ready to order some of the parts I need to get my 1998 4Runner SR5 with 266k back into shape. I'm starting up with the engine. I will be doing the timing belt/water pump, the valve cover gaskets, and spark plugs and wires. I was looking at ordering these parts from Yota1 Performance. Cart - Yota1 Performance, Inc. (209yota1.com). One thing I noticed is that they don't include gasket's for the intake manifold or a new PCV valve so I will just order OEM from the Toyota Dealer. I'll also get a new seal and gasket for the oil cooler there since I noticed a small leak from it. Wondering if there is anything else I should be ordering while I'm at it? Since I've owned the vehicle all I've done is LBJs, Rear upper control arms (since they were cut for some reason), and an alternator. My tie rods are due too however I'm considering replacing the whole steering rack because I believe it is leaking as well. That will be for another day though, probably when I do the rear bearings and wheel seals. Also thinking about getting a new radiator while I'm at it. Any suggestions on where to get parts are welcomed.

 

Welcome to the forum!

Your timing belt looks like my '03's belt at 230K+ miles!

 

Welcome, looks like you have most everything covered.

 

I'd add the following:
. Front oil seal, camshaft oil seals, idler pulleys, timing belt tensioner, AC/Alt/PS belts
. Number 1 timing belt cover gaskets. The gaskets tend to last but they eventually fall off.
. If you've never replaced the radiator, might as well include that plus the thermostat and the upper/lower hoses. Obviously if you're replacing the radiator, might as well flush the system and add new coolant.

If time is not critical I buy my Toyota parts from McGEORGE Toyota.

 

Looks like you got a lot covered. That timing belt definitely looks ready to be replaced.

One thing I noticed from observing your pictures is that you seem to be in serious need of a brake fluid flush. That fluid looks black. That's what mine looked like when I took ownership of my 98 SR5. It took a full tall bottle of brake fluid and part of a smaller bottle to get all of that old fluid flushed through.

It's hard to tell if that's the original radiator or not? Usually if they are original, the plastic turns a brownish color. The plastic on yours still looks black. However, that could just be anecdotal evidence on my part. If you aren't sure, it would probably be best to replace it when you do the timing belt.

Just go on Amazon or Rockauto and order the Denso one that they carry for our rigs. Most Denso materials are OEM for these trucks. It's only a little over $100. Well worth it for piece of mind, IMO.

 

Yeah the brakes are getting done as soon as the engine work is done, planning on flushing the fluid then. I was just on Rockauto and saw the Denso radiator. I'm gonna go ahead and order. Thanks.

 

I thought about buying my replacement radiator from Rockauto but did not. Shipping related issues are a huge risk for a radiator. Sure you can return it but then have to wait for a replacement. Someone on this board pointed me to Advance Auto. They are local. I ended up buying one that comes with a lifetime warranty (~ $155). I checked the radiator at the store to make sure it was not dented before I left. There are others who prefer all metal radiators. There is an outfit at CA (Champion radiators) and they sell one for ~ $245. I looked into that one also but again shipping ...

 

On your alt, you should buy the rebuild kit and not a parts store replacement. The parts store ones are junk. Good videos online on repairing 4Runner alts. Basically just need to replace the brushes.

 

Any idea on the part number for the Number 1 timing belt cover gaskets?

 

For the gaskets I used this set from RockAuto. Note that these are foam type gaskets. They're either still intact or have disappeared. On mine half of the pieces were missing.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8876656&jsn=20

 

Ahhh I don't know how I missed that. I already got a kit ordered with camshaft seals and front crank seal. I'm trying to find just the timing cover seals.

 

Parts are ordered. Now it's just a matter of waiting for the packages to arrive.

 

Reminds me of the old ketchup commercial, with the person waiting for the ketchup to come out of the bottle. In the background is the song Anticipation...

Or am I dating myself...??
Pat☺

 

That's gonna be playing in my head while I wait. I had to look it up. Definitely before my time.
Heinz Ketchup 'Anticipation' Commercial (1977) - YouTube

 

Yeah! That's the one I was thinking of!
Seems to me it matches the situation perfectly. It may be a bit old, but hey, so am I

Sorry it's demon-looping in your skull now. You know the only way to get it out is for the parts to arrive, or to get another one to push it out. Pick a good one!

Take care!
Pat☺

 

Regarding the oil seals if you don't have a seal puller, grab the one made by Lisle. This is one of the best tools that I've ever bought.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-...=1&keywords=seal+puller&qid=1619038498&sr=8-9

 

I just got that same puller in the mail today. I also picked up a camshaft pulley holder tool.
Amazon.com: Sunluway Cam Pulley Holder Camshaft Pulley Holding Tool Fit for Nissan Toyota Camry OHC Maximas V6: Automotive
I also took your advice and picked up that radiator Advance Auto Parts has. Thanks.

 

Good catch. I had forgotten all about the pulley holder. That, too, is a must. Although the cam bolt is supposed to be tightened to 80 ft-lbs, it took far more effort to loosen the bolt when I did it.
You can use the starter trick to loosen the main pulley's bolt but there are tools like the one below that make the job safer. Overtime the main pulley gets stuck on the crankshaft. You may need a pulley remover also.

https://www.amazon.com/Harmonic-Dam...ta+4runner&qid=1619050179&s=automotive&sr=1-3

 

I ordered the crank holder a few days ago as well, it should be here tomorrow. I got it cheap at $16 because it was used. And I already have a pulley remover so I think I'm set. Just waiting for the parts to arrive. I should have everything by Friday fingers crossed.

 

You may already know this but I'll say it in case ...

1. Obviously the cams and the engine must be at TDC. The crankshaft timing pulley (i.e the pulley on which the timing belt will ride on) has a red marker on its outer edge. That is to help you quickly identify the TDC. On the body of the timing pulley you'll see a small white dot. That is the exact position. You want that small white dot to be exactly aligned to the TDC pointer on the body. At 90 degrees to the right of the small white dot, there is another small white dot. When you install a new timing belt, there will be a white line on the timing belt and this should line up with this second white dot. Of course if everything is installed correctly the R and L cam lines on the timing belt will also be aligned with the cam TDC markers.

2. In installing the timing belt, install the two idler pulleys first, then install the timing belt and finally add the tensioner.

 

Welcome NEmaster92, I just joined a few days ago myself. Been working on my 99 Ltd since January. If you haven't already found his channel, check out 4runner YouTuber Timmy the Toolman. He has some outstanding step by step videos for 3rd gen 4runners.

 

Been watching him the past week. His videos rule. I bought the same kit he used for the timing belt replacement. Just came in the mail today. Now I just waiting on a couple more packages to arrive since I'm doing valve cover gaskets at the same time.
3.4L/V6 Complete Timing Belt Water Pump Kit with genuine Thermostat + Hyd Tens. | eBay

 

Have fun with that! Waiting for new tranny filter myself. Just flushed the transmission (Timmy video) and changed all diff/transfer fluids.

 

He has a good video there but he makes a fundamental mistake. He installs the tensioner, followed by the idler pulley. Even though the tensiner pin is still intact, it will engage the idler pulley. In installing the idler pulley, I think this may have contributed to the idler screw thread getting crossed. The correct order is install the two idler pulleys, install the timing belt and finally install the tensioner.

The kit has good components for water pump, belt and idler pulleys. I am not familiar with the oil seal brands. I used Toyota seals on mine but I don't recall who the OEM was.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

The last kit I got did not have the same crank/cam seals as Toyota. The ones in the kit were slightly thinner. Luckily I had new ones from a kit before that I didn't use that were correct. I will be going to the dealer for those next time. The rest of the kit had TOYOTA EOM Supplier parts though...so go figure.

 

Well USPS surprised me today by delivering my last package a couple of days early. I finally have all the parts to do the timing belt and valve cover gaskets! I also picked up a new fuel filter, plugs and wires, and oil cooler seals. I'll be pulling the 4Runner in the garage tonight to start disassembling and fingers crossed get the rest of it done tomorrow. I made sure to pick up plenty of brake clean, the only thing I forgot to grab was some RTV so I'll have to make a run for that. Only thing not pictured is the new radiator.

 

Good for you. Speaking of fuel filter, I had a difficult time with mine. I don't understand why Toyota has made the fuel filter installation such a pain. The threads are quite coarse and really hard to turn. Another lesson that I can share is in installing the new filter. The manual says that first mount the fuel filter and then connect the lines. Well in practice this does not quite work. Take the fuel filter body and in sequence line up the fuel filter body with the inlet and exit lines. Starting with one line, manually turn the screw with the nut. You can only do this perhaps one full turn as threads are quite coarse. Make sure the line does not go in askew with the fuel filter body. Now use a open ended box wrench and turn the nut 2-3 full turns. Repeat this for the other line. This starts the lines properly (i.e. you eliminate cross threading). Next mount the fuel filter body (do not completely tighten the bolts yet). Proceed to fully tighten the inlet/exit nuts. Once you've done this, you can tighten the mount bolts.

You also do not need to separate the throttle body from the upper manifold. They can be removed together. Once you've removed the MAF line from the throttle body and disconnected the connections as well removed the bolts/nuts as the upper manifold, the whole unit comes off in one piece.

One other thought. In installing the thermostat the jiggle pin goes at the 6 o'clock position. Some folks place it at the 12 O'clock position which is wrong.

You should not be needing any RTV to this work

 

Thanks for the tips on the fuel filter install, hopefully that'll make it a lot easier. I know the throttle body doesn't need removed, but I figured I would just to get it nice and clean and replace the gasket cause I'm already replacing all the others . As far as the RTV, it's for the half moons when I do the valve cover gaskets.

 

Yes of course