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RPM Dropping when coming to a stop

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by jbean199, Mar 31, 2021.

  1. Mar 31, 2021 at 3:52 PM
    #1
    jbean199

    jbean199 [OP] New Member

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    Jesse
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    1994 sr5 4Runner
    I have a 1994 4 runner with the 3.0 and 5 speed I picked up about a month ago. I've been trying to figure out this problem since I got it. After the 4runner gets to operating temp anytime I come to a red light or stop sign and press the clutch in the rpms will drop to around 250. If I come to a complete stop it will jump back up to idle. While at about 250 if I press the gas it stalls. I have replaced the fuel filter and it is now running better but still doing it. I also did the timing belt and idlers which also got it running better. I'm not sure what to do next. Could it be a vacuum leak that I haven't been able to locate or something else? Any info is appreciated!
     
  2. Apr 1, 2021 at 5:07 AM
    #2
    importman

    importman The mountains are calling and I must go...

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    Blacked out, Ironman 3" Nitro Gas Suspension lift, JBA High Caster upper control arms, Differential drop and sway bar relocate, Upgraded to Sport Front Cardone Calipers with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads, Added Spoiler, Sony XAV-AX100 with Apple Carplay, USB Jack, Backup Camera, Black TRD Pro Wheels with General Grabber ATX 265/70/17, Rear differential vent extension, Auto Dimming Mirror with Compass and Homelink, Map Light Mod, Tekonsha 90160 Trailer Brake Controller, Recoil SL1708 Sub, Sealight LED Headlamps, K&N drop in air filter, Weathertech floor mats, Homemade rear storage compartment with built in pull out table.
    Clean the throttle chamber and plate. That's the first thing I would do. If that doesn't help you may have to look at the idle control unit.
     
  3. Apr 1, 2021 at 7:28 AM
    #3
    jbean199

    jbean199 [OP] New Member

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    I was told by the previous owner that they did that. I'll have to check to make sure. Thanks! Is there a way to check if the idle control is working or not with out just replacing it?
     
  4. Apr 1, 2021 at 7:53 AM
    #4
    importman

    importman The mountains are calling and I must go...

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    Carolinas
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    Blacked out, Ironman 3" Nitro Gas Suspension lift, JBA High Caster upper control arms, Differential drop and sway bar relocate, Upgraded to Sport Front Cardone Calipers with Brembo Rotors and Akebono Pads, Added Spoiler, Sony XAV-AX100 with Apple Carplay, USB Jack, Backup Camera, Black TRD Pro Wheels with General Grabber ATX 265/70/17, Rear differential vent extension, Auto Dimming Mirror with Compass and Homelink, Map Light Mod, Tekonsha 90160 Trailer Brake Controller, Recoil SL1708 Sub, Sealight LED Headlamps, K&N drop in air filter, Weathertech floor mats, Homemade rear storage compartment with built in pull out table.
    Not sure on that particular vehicle but on many cars you can raise and lower the idle speed (temporarily) with a good, bi-directional scan tool. If it moves up or down when you command it to, it means it's working.
     
  5. Apr 2, 2021 at 11:19 PM
    #5
    Dezman92

    Dezman92 New Member

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    The idle air control valve is built into the throttle body. It uses coolant temperature to open and close it. It’s mechanical. An air pocket in the coolant, low coolant, or a clogged passage will cause it to not work properly. You can disconnect the hoses and blow air through it to see if it’s clogged.I would also check to see if the throttle position sensor is in spec too.
     
  6. Apr 13, 2021 at 10:15 PM
    #6
    D60

    D60 New Member

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    See if you're still getting vac to the EGR valve at idle.
     

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