My truck is sick? I have an issue my 98 3.4 liter 4wd no diff lock is acting funny

She warms up running like a top and then i will have no power it almost seems like the brakes are on.. No misfire as i can tell when i pull over ldle is great with no jumping accelerator is nice and smooth but no power when try to go it just lumbers to even get moving. Any ideas? Thank you my peeps

 

When you drive it after a bit, pull over and touch each wheel with your hand. If you feel an extremely hot wheel, then maybe you have a brake,or brakes locking up.

 

Yeah, if it feels like brakes dragging it may be.

Might be a plugged Catalytic converter. Those can go bad and don't show issues until you get moving. Also, you won't see a code for a bad cat.

 

Ive had a plugged cat before. Was exactly like you described.

good idle. Totally bogged down and wouldnt accelerate.

Got it home from a friends house by disconnecting the exahast on the down pipe before the cat.

It was on a vw but id imagine its a fairly universal thing. If you dont want to disconnect exhaust parts maybe see if behind the cat is getting hot? If its not probably a good sign theres no flow behind the cat.

 

Check if caliper sticking?

 

The cat was on my replacement list too i think i might move it up to the top of the list.. I will double check all of your suggestions no Chk engine light either. I will figure it out if it kills me.. You guys are A1 awesome thanks

 

You can test a cat pretty easy. Get her nice and warmed up and use an infrared gun to check the temperature on the cat on the inlet and outlet. Many youtube vids on it. Temp on the OUT side should be HIGHER by like 20 or so degrees than the input. If it's the opposite, it's plugged or just not working. You can also check pressure before and after the cat to see if it's plugged. But the gauge is a bit pricey.

 

I rely on all of you my T4R family so much when i have issues or need advice and I appreciate you all.. I forgot to mention when i have no power i will pull over unhook both my battery posts chill for at least 15 mins and issue is gone for 15 -20 miles.. Im going to replace my oxygen sensors the cat next week.. Gotta find my price on a new one.. I will keep u all updated.

 

Remember, when you buy O2 sensors, do NOT buy Bosch. Buy Denso, or other Japanese parts. The Bosch are made for European vehicles, NOT Japanese, and don't seem to send the right info to the ECU. Not always, and not right at first, but you'll wind up replacing them more often than you really should. Just look at how long OEM last
Really, same for most parts. Always buy OEM, Japanese made, parts. Not generic, not European. Even things like PCV valves, spark plugs, plug wires, etc etc. Buy Japanese made parts. Really, a much better investment.
As a general rule, overall, you might pay a little more for OEM, Japanese made, parts, but you will NOT regret it.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Thank you pat i buy only OEM the reason its taking me time to buy what i need because of the big difference in $$$ cost.. Only Denso/Toyota parts for me.. Thanks again

 

CALL your dealer with your vin and get the correct part number. Not all cars got O2 sensors. I know my car got A/F sensors. If you try the wrong part, they won't take them back.