Paint Gurus - Help!

I am super new to paint correction and waxing. Picked up an orbital polisher from Walmart today and some cutting and polishing compounds. I am trying to recondition the paint on the 2000 Lexus I bought as a commuter as I am really enjoying the car. My question is am I using the right stuff here, as there still seem to be some serious water spots or otherwise oxidized clear coat that I couldn’t buff out. Any advice is more than welcome.
Also, worth saying - I’d like to figure this out so that I can do correction and properly buff out pinstriping caused by bushes and branches on the 4Runner after off-roading. Cheers

 

Maybe a Black Wax to fill in all the chips??

 

Thank you. Any recommendations for the polisher, pads etc?

 

I'd also recommend using a clay bar before you cut and polish. you want to make sure you get all the contaminates off the paint rather that have them caught in your pad and the scratches/swirls worse.

 

Gonna give this a gander after work today. Thank you

 

Yep you need an actual DA to do any correction work. I recommend the Griots G9. Lifetime warranty and great customer service. You’ll want to use a 5” backing plate and 5.5” pads. Also, join the AG forum. So much great info on there.

 

Here’s the backing plate.

 

This might be a thread you’d like to follow.
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions-/128748-da-pad-simplicity.html

 

Heres some pics of our 09 Rav4 (189,000 miles) i did earlier this year. Used PC orbital polisher, 5" in disc, 5.5" microfiber pad n adams compound...
I did our 11 4runner also...no pics yet...however it turned out just as good if not better using the same process..

 

Paint looks good!

 

Thanks for the advice to all. I had gone in on Monday and ordered a few items already - hope I am on the right track this time.

 

Be careful with the ultra cut !....everything else looks good in my book...

 

Define careful? Lol Light pressure and lower speed on the buffer?

 

You could end up hazing the paint. And then you’d need to do a final polish with M205. Just be sure you do a test spot and see how it finishes.

The rule of thumb is if you can feel a scratch with a fingernail it’s too deep to remove. Personally, I never do correction work on daily drivers. I just polish with an all-in-one or finishing polish and live with the results.

ALWAYS start with the least abrasive product that achieves your objective. You don’t want to create more work than you started with.

Don’t let this scare you. You really can’t f it up. But you can create more work than you anticipated.

TEST SPOT—TEST SPOT—TEST SPOT
And check your work in good lighting.

Do one small area start to finish to get your product and pad combo dialed in. Then do the rest panel by panel. Don’t just slap on a pad and heavy cut polish and do the whole vehicle.

 

Higher cut...more abrasive!.....my suggestion....high speed...less pressure to start...keep checking cut as you go along.
3 to 4 drops on pad..pea size...turn on no.3 to spread n then high ...left to right over lapping an inch n then the opposite.
Once doin this this..feel paint...do until you have some warmth in paint

 

I also like to plan on about 6 pads to polish (or use an AIO) per vehicle. So you’re not having to clean so often while you’re working.

if you’re just applying a wax or sealant, then one pad is fine.

 

I appreciate all the advice. Hopefully my order makes in time so I can try it out this weekend.

 

4P makes the difference. 1) Person. Who does the work. 2) Polisher. Which polisher and how to use. 3) Pads. Different pads does different thing. And same pad does different things depends on 4) Product.
meguire 300/301 package works well. 105/205 combination also works good. As long as you are using DA polisher with foam pads, there is not much to worry for taking clear coat off. Make sure not dry polish which means that make sure to have product on pads. Slow speed for compound. A little faster for polish. Let machine and pads do work for you. Stay in you arm reach section. 3-4’ x 3-4’ area at time. Technically, using three products will work better, but two combo will work for you. Make sure to wash and clay first to take all contaminates. The then paint correction. At the finish, you can use final wax, polymer based finish or Meguires have ceramic spray finish. Your choice. Word from IDA certified...good luck.

 

You can use commercial cleaning pads. Different products will have different directions for use. Generally speaking, most cleaning foam pads will typically need to be wet for successful application and paint removal. Wet the foam pad thoroughly, then squeeze out the excess water.