99 2.7 No CEL Help

263,000

STARTING - will start when pumping the gas pedal, usually within 3-5 seconds. it's starts best when I let the vehicle sit for 2 hours. otherwise it'll take many tries to start (longest 30 min)

WARM UP - when started I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep the engine from dying out. once engine is warm(5 min) I can let off the gas pedal & engine will idle fine.

CUTTING OUT - without a proper 5 min warm up, my engine will cut out when rolling to a stop light or stop sign, usually have to keep my "RPMs up" in order to keep my ride from dying out.
**will cut out every time I place into Drive or Reverse which makes parallel parking tough** still need to keep my RPMs up to keep my engine from stalling

SLUGGISH - randomly upon acceleration from rounding a turn & on freeway acceleration even when flooring it

Vehicle runs great after warm up, gets me to where I need to go. however I try to lessen my stop & go's running errands or doing deliveries


New - TPS, IAC, MAF, spark plugs, wires, battery, fuel filter changed a year ago & original fuel pump

 

Sounds like your fuel pump is shot.

A car needs three things to start and run well. Fuel, air, and spark. You said your MAF is new and your plugs are new, so the only option left is your fuel pump.

Had problems like this with my 2000 over a year ago (she's got 300k) my fuel pump was on its way out, and didn't know until it gave out. (I was stuck and it was terrible!) it would sputter and die after a rapid acceleration, and then would be a pain to get going again. Sluggish in the mornings and lots of startup problems, exactly how you described. Good news being, if you've got the tools, switching your fuel pump isn't all that bad. It's a process though, and I would HIGHLY recommend labeling every fuel line before you disconnect them.

Buy a Haynes manual. It's got a breakdown of that process and us extremely helpful.
(I accidentally placed my pressure relief line on the return fuel line and I started spraying gas on the freeway, it was not a fun experience)

 

Also, check to see if your fuel tank is dirty when you remove your pump. DO NOT CLEAN THE TANK YOURSELF. Take it to a professional.

 

Oh, and cheers to you! Heres a view of the gas tank and surrounding components, all exploded.

 

Next on the list to R&R is my fuel pump & filter, which I do have still boxed & when I had the time to repair it....... time marched on & now, my vehicle wouldn't start up. got it towed to a shop. asked for them to diagnose my ride. fuel pressure was good at 40 psi, ignition system working correctly & spark plugs also in good condition. they did a compression test & got 30psi on cylinder #1
I am not losing/burning oil & no white smoke out the tail pipe. I have heard that 3rd Gens have issues with valves getting tighter. I'm maybe leaning into the direction of pulling off the heads & see if that's an option ..... more than taking the shops advice of upgrading to another engine. The cost maybe lower for rebuilt heads, but I'm looking into total cost for both options..... I now know how it feels when you were stalled out... I can relate

 

update.....
new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, a clean tank, new coolant temp sensor, & fully charged battery

didn't get to do a leak down test but did get the engine to fire up by spraying starter fluid straight into the throttle body. good news is that the engine sounds great when it is running, however it's a must to keep your foot on the throttle to keep the engine from cutting out. also, the engine seems to crank better with a battery charger on the terminals, without it attached, seems like starting system doesnt draw enough current to fire up on its own.. baffled why it's not starting up & running on its own after upgrading these key parts.. dunno what to do next, any other testing practices or just keep buying new Vacuum Switching Valves? Vapor Pressure Sensor? an ECU? ignition coils?