HELP! Timing Belt

I have a 3rd gen 3.4 and I'm replacing timing belt and components. Put new tensioner in (after fighting for hours to get the back bolt started) and the pin is stuck. Won't budge. Tried pliers but stopped because I didn't want to damage anything. What have I done wrong? And also, timing belt marks look to be one step off on right can but left is in line and can't get anymore slack. Is this fine?

 

Hmm ... the only thing that I can think of is to remove the tensioner (sorry), put it in a vice, apply some preload and perhaps this can help you find out why the pin is refusing to come out. Normally the pin should just come out w/o any excessive force.

In installing a timing belt, I install the two pulleys (tensioner & idler) first. Next I install the timing belt and finally I install the tensioner. Installing the tensioner last helps a great deal with the overall installation process.

Regarding timing marks on the belt, they should line up with the cam marks. Note that the left marker on the timing belt means the driver side cam pulley. When properly installed, the notch on the cam back plate should line up with the line on the timing belt and also the marker on the cam pulley. Although there is a slight chance that the belt is not marked correctly (highly improbable), you can check the position of cams with the crankshaft at TDC. They all should line up. In fact some folks after the installation of the timing belt, manually turn the crankshaft to assure themselves that once the crankshaft is at TDC, the cam pulley markers also line up with the notches on the back plate.

 

watch Timmy the Toolman's timing belt video. I believe you put all parts in place and then put pry lever cuss the belt into place.

 

Even in this referenced video, they mention the difficulty in inserting the belt. Had they not installed the tensioner, that would have allowed the tensioner pulley to drop down a bit and this makes the installation of the belt easier. You certainly would not need to use a pry. Once the belt is in place, then the tensioner should be installed. Having said this in the video I see that they do not remove the AC bracket. I have never done it this way and cannot tell whether installing the tensioner at the end is possible with the belt and AC bracket already in place.

 

Getting the belt on was easy for me. Also, without removing the ac bracket is possible just a pain in the ass. I found out why the pin didn't want to come out. It was inserted too far and got mangled when I screwed it in. Getting everything put back together now

 

I am glad to read all is turning is out to be OK

 

ok, I have a new radiator, water pump, timing belt and accessories (tensioners/belts/hoses), for my 2000 2x4. being 3 times my 4Runner's age, and downsizing to a FL house with a carport rather than a garage, can't tempt me to spend a whole weekend getting my hands dirty in a warm January. what i want to know, is $650 to install all the foregoing, with a coolant flush, a good price from my local mechanic?

 

When I last did this work, it was a leisurely weekend task as I am merely a DIY owner. I surmise an experienced mechanic can do all the above it in ~6 hrs. Obviously labor rates vary across the states/locales but I'd say it is a reasonable quote. $500 would be a steal in my opinion. If you're having this work done, you may want to have them replace the crankshaft and cam pulley oil seals as well.

 

$650 for a T-Belt change is definitely reasonable.