New 94runner

Just got a 94 4Runner with 300,000 miles for 1500 wondering on any issues I you think I’ll be coming into the gears already shift without me really having to press the button but other than that smooth ride so far

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

I got some rust in the coolant box that looks like it got into the radiator a little bit how bad should I be worried about that I’m gonna flush it and clean it but just seeing what other have to say

 

Like any engine, prepare yourself if it has not been maintained. The 3VZE can be great if it has been. Is the coolant as dirty as the overflow hose?

 

I would ahead and change the fluids in the diffs and do a drain and fill on the tranny and transfer case and then flush the radiator.

 

Forgot to add this link. It’s a good baseline for the 3VZE.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/what-everyone-should-know-about-their-truck-3vze-187741/

 

Yeah the fluid is just as bad and the radiator looks like the same thing a flush is a must for sure going to do that tomorrow and I was thinking of just trying to change the radiator and the fluid box all together seen some people parting out their runner in my area same year to

 

I saw a video on a copper radiator would be the best do you guys agree ?

 

Or all aluminum

 

She’s dirtyyyyyy

 

Wow, that is some nasty stuff. You may wish to change out your main hoses too and if you have the oil cooler on your truck, replace the hoses that go to it as they are probably clogged.

 

Have you guys ever used thermocure for rust ?

 

I would do a super flush on that car...
https://youtu.be/s--5ft5YiHg

Then I would flush everything else...
https://youtu.be/t7JCh7PHoDc

Congrats on your 4Runner

 

Super flush for sure his looks just as rusty

 

Recommendations for a new radiator I should get ?

 

Well....ya may not like my response but it's a $1500 beater (and I don't consider "beater" a negative term so take no offense).....I'd slap in a basic plastic-side-tank unit and go about life happy.

I just can't see putting an all aluminum or copper unit in a '94 with 300k that cost you $1500......a new all-metal will run 1/3 of the purchase price, minimum

JMHO, it's your money so do as you please.

 

I get what you’re saying I do what to have the car for a long time as a project so I do want to get good parts but I should probably just swap the whole engine but wondering what would be a simple change for now to help with the rust

 

My plan is to get a mew radiator and do the super flush even with a new one to get it all out of the engine to

 

I know it’s not the best photo but got the water to here with the regular flush going to do the super flush and re flush my other fluids like those videos and let you guys know how it goes

 

.

 

IF YOU WANT, buy the best radiator you can afford...there's no reason your 4Runner, can't go on and on...my friend's '92, has over 600,000 miles...my '97, has 256,000...so...they are capable of logging in the miles....

 

You are getting there. Honestly I wouldn’t replace the radiator until you start leaking. Cars can quickly become a money pit. I would clean it out like you are doing (Clean everything up the best you can). Get everything looking/running really nice. Then if you are seeing issues (broken hoses, bad thermostat, etc.) Then start replacing those items. Take it bit by bit. That is just my humble opinion.

I bought a used vehicle (not even going to say which one because it was not a wise purchase). Anyways I put a bunch of time and money into fixing it and then ended up trading it in for a new car. If your car starts experiencing a lot of overheating issues and you think it is the radiator and not the thermostat then I would move forward.

I would recommend not using water either for your coolant as that is what causes the rust. If you are going to use water make sure you use distilled water. I personally would just use radiator fluid for my setup (follow direction with water and coolant recommendations but make sure to use distilled water for the mixture). This way if you live in freezing weather your radiator fluid shouldn’t freeze and if you live in hot weather it should help keep the car cooler.

I hope that helps.

 

Flush it for sure, the guy who had it before you used alot of water in the system, replace the thermostat. After the flush use a coolant that is already "mixed", if you buy coolant that is not mixed, use distilled water and mix coolant and water 50/50, this should give you protection to about -30F to protect against freezing, coolant also lubricates the water pump/seals to help against leaks, but watch for leaks after the process.... they may occur.

 

Champion All aluminum radiator on eBay thick two row core less than $200. Modified mine with a 16" Zirgo and temperature switch on the drain bung outlet.

 

You will get five years out of this radiator..... Or less...,,,Go with factory....,,,,

 

SR5 Limited,
Is this from personal experience of hearsay? What coolant did you use in your experience with this radiator with a 5 year life span?

The copper and the steel in the OEM 3VZ-E is certainly a galvanic situation where the copper is sacrificial as an anode when the anti-freeze is old and not doing its job and becomes an electrolyte. Same goes for the aluminum but there are heads and intake castings that are the same material as this aluminum radiator. That fact alone changes the total surface area and therefore the galvanic potential for corrosion.

I have had one of these Champion aluminum radiators cooling my Lotus 907 engine since 06/2013 and its now 2021. In six more months this radiator in the Jensen Healey will be 8 years old and all I run in it for coolant is distilled water and Redline water wetter, which i would not recommend for a daily driver but as I track day this on occasion antifreeze is a no-no! Granted the block is aluminum in the 907 but the wet liners are steel so there is a similar galvanic situation as the 3VZ-E.

For contrast I got 13 years out of the OEM copper radiator in my 1982 long bed Hilux with 22R engine. It was the soldered ends of the butted tubes for the ruggedized radiator hose pipes that perforated the tank walls as these ruddy tubes were not brass as one might expect but were steel to manage the tugging of the engine moving as a 4X4 option and thus provide some fatigue resistance to the tubes failing when the engine pulled the hose pipes.

 

We put one in a 91 Camaro. No disrespect... It lasted around 5 years....

 

SR5 Limited thankyou for your input. You know I suspect your 91 Camaro was all cast iron heads and block. So the aluminum radiator was the low point on the chart for galvanic corrosion. That is certainly a closer match to my 3.0 L than is my Lotus 907 engine. I might have to give more consideration that Toyota orange/red colored coolant in my 3VZ-E which my wife's Rav4 uses, Hummm?

 

What type of cylinder liners does the 907 have? If I recall they are cast iron, maybe? We've had aluminum radiators in drag cars, and what we found out is that if you don't put the proper ph to the water, and use 'water wetter' you get maybe 6yrs. out of the radiator. With the proper ph(7.0-7.5) we've had one last for going on 8 yrs. in a smallblock Chevy, keep in mind we have to run, with the exception of the water wetter, pure water because of spills or leaks. I also know of aluminum block/cylinder head apps. that can only get a few years out of the aluminum radiators. Some more, some less. Just saying.