Advice on audio system in a Gen 5

I have a few questions for anyone who has swapped out their non-JBL system.
I am considering 2 options - get the OEM Audio Plus system using my own sub, or piece together all my own speakers & amp(s).

For ease of install, the OEM Audio is very appealing, but for the price they want, I could do an entire Focal speaker system and use 2 of my old amps laying around.

First, are OEM Audio speakers and their amp system really worth $1400 (C3 version) compared to other high-quality speakers, or are you just paying a LOT of money for that "plug and play" installation?

Second, for those who installed aftermarket (non-OEM Audio) speakers and added a sub woofer, what did you use to convert speaker-level signal to RCA and how did you create the sub-woofer set of RCAs? I realize that there are numerous signal-level to RCA converters out there but I'm curious what others have used.

Last, for those who have retrofitted the dash tweeters with full-range coaxials *and* replaced the front door speakers, any advice on things you would change or things you're glad you did?

 

Owner for a week now, non-JBL. Listened to podcasts (sad sound quality) but read many forum posts on upgrading the sound system/how bad the factory sound is. OEM Audio+ always comes up.
Finally a couple of days ago I veered away from podcasts and played some songs through the 8 inch head unit via my Samsung Note 9 connected via USB cable.
Suddenly I have no urge to upgrade anything sound wise. One test song was Toccata and Fugue. Dang I was surprised and pleased.
I too was looking at OEM's C3 since I don't want the clunky looking subwoofer in my holding area. I think now if I ever do anything it might be replace the factory speakers a couple at a time and take that $1400 and get a aluminum front winch bumper.
Each of us have different priorities

 

I installed the Oem plus a few days ago. Coming from older rides with $$$$$ systems with amazing sound, the $1700 from OEM will not be there for you. I didn't expect it for this price but couldn't handle stock any more!. It sounds excellent, reviews I read say you can drive down a highway windows down and it still rocks. I believe that but it's too cold right now to try! They also say if you want and like high end, this is not for you. I got the 500 reference with one sub and to me bass does not lack but I never did like rattling other car windows at stop lights. I like the sound for the audio sound, not ear drum ruptures

 

I put the OEM Audio+ in my rig this summer... yes it is a bit pricey but the quality of speaker and ease of install made it worth while to me. I've always considered myself an audio guy... enjoy good music on good systems.... so I was very pleased when all was said and done and I was able to play music that had depth both in highs and lows. The sub is tucked out of the way and stays in place... haven't had any concerns about losing any room in the back because of it. The only reason I would replace the stock deck now is to get apple play for the phone.

 

It's funny. On Crutchfield's website, it specifically says that the Focal IC Toy 165 speakers will not fit in my 2019 4Runner. But, I went to Focal's website and it's the recommended OEM replacement speaker for the factory 6 1/2". Go figure. I'm not dead set on Focal, JL Audio is a great company as well (and there are more).

I thinking I want to stick with the sub I already have because I'd hate not to use it and just let it keep collecting dust. It's a Focal KX33 that I bought when Ultimate Electronics went out of business. As far as a speaker goes, it's almost a piece of art. The main downfall is a 13" sub requires a good sized box and if I intend to use the 3rd row seating I'd have to take it out for the drive.

The Taco tunes' box almost fits that sub, but it's a little too shallow.

This install I thought was cool, too. If I changed my mind and went this route, I think I'd keep the outer edge of the "pocket" attached and use the factory cover with a lot of holes nicely drilled into it for the venting over the sub.

 

Just installed these Subaru tweeters in my 4Runner -

$89 Subaru Genuine Tweeter Kit Kicker WRX STi Forester Crosstrek Impreza H631SFJ101

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PV6F8I2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Totally plug-and-play with a nice improvement in sound.

 

To my knowledge there’s no ability to tweak the OEM+ system and for that reason I’ve always gone a different route.

This time I opted for Audison Prima stuff. So far it satisfies. Once it’s entirely buttoned up I’ll post the build thread, for now it’s in TacomaWorld because the A/V forum there is more interesting.

here’s the sub I built though.

 

wow....very nice sub box. If I didn't know better I'd think that was a commercial product designed to fit. You should be very proud of your work!

 

My plan is to buy the Focal Toy speakers for the front, rear, and hatch as well as getting Alpine's PSU-300FRN kit. Comes with a 8" powered sub and alpine power pack mounted to a frame that goes under the passenger seat in our 4runners. The power pack and included harnesses are plug and play for the stock radio. I think I will be pretty content with all of that and hopefully everything will be plug and play for the most part.

 

I would like to disable the rear hatch speakers as well. Did you just jump the + and - at for each speaker in the rear hatch together? How do you know this frees up power for the rear door speakers? I'm replacing the front stage and sub in my JBL equipped 4R and plan to use the factory amp to power Focal co-axial 5.25" speakers (Crutchfield told me 6.5" co-axials wouldn't fit) and find the notion of maximizing the stock amp power to the rear door speakers interesting.

 

I see, so by connecting + and - of the rear hatch speakers together, you are eliminating the load, or resistance the speaker would present to the amplifier. If the factory speakers are 2ohm and they are wired in parallel, then this would present a 4 ohm load to the amp. I suppose by bypassing the rear hatch speakers and replacing the rear door speakers with a 4ohm model, you are still keeping a 4ohm load for the amp. Am I missing something here?

Thanks for telling me about the Metra harness!

 

I’m a newbie on stereo stuff, you bought the connectors and just butt spliced the positive and negative on the new harness?

 

Do you use the same harness for all the speakers including the corner tweeters? I was looking at memphis audio speakers. The 6.5s were on sale for 67 but now are 79. I could slap myself silly. Is it a good idea to get baffles?

 

The dash speakers are on a 4 pin harness. This is where they are wired parallel to the door woofers. All of the other speakers use the same 2 pin.

 

Thanks. I found a video on YouTube and then bought the correct ones for them. Found some good videos on how the oem is set up and upgrading it. The front speakers are wired parallel and the rear in series. I thought I would need a 6 channel amp if I find I needed more power but with the way it is set It looks like a 4 channel covers it all.

 

Do the Taco Tunes speaker wiring harness work for a 2022 TRD OFP?

 

I am pretty sure the speaker harnesses are all the same. I got mine off Amazon.