What type of oil do you use in your third gen?

Just curious. I run valvine synthetic high mileage 5w-30 oil because its recommended and I live in an area where it falls below 30 regularly, so 10w-30 would make it difficult to start in the morning. Also my 4 cylinder engine is healthy at 170k miles and it isn't too worn.

I change the oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months along with the filter, even though I probably wouldn't have an issue doing it every 5,000 miles or 10 months.

 

I run 10w30...no issues on a negative degree cold start. Ran that oil for decades in all the cars we had up north. I may switch to a synthetic though. It's better.

 

Mobil 1 syn 5/30 every 3500 miles since I’ve owned it (over twenty years). I finally read the owners manual and it calls for changing every 5000 miles. So now I’m using the oil longer, every 4500 miles. Doesn’t burn anything or leak a drop. But I had to use some plumbers tape on the drain plug last time, need a new gasket..

And I used a OEM filter last time. Was a little harder to start the threads was a snug fit...

And I don’t believe in the “high mileage” crap it’s just under refined I think.,

 

Funny thing is the high mileage oil is the same price as the regular stuff at my Walmart. Last time I did my change I bought a drain plug because I thought I would screw up the one on my car because someone over tightened it. I didn't need it, but they are cheap at an auto parts store. Its recommended that you replace the crush gasket every other oil change, but I haven't done that.

 

Toyota Brand 5-30 non synthetic.

 

I like Kama Sutra oil.....................oh never mind.

 

Mobil 1 5w-30 high mileage, 6 qts. from Costco for super cheap-only cost me $25 last month.

 

I have a 97 4runner with 214K. I have been using Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic and have replaced the oil every 3000-4000 miles.

 

Only the best for my shit box



Found easily at you local 7/11

 

I use conventional in my 2005 4runner. I got oil drips when I tried synthetic.

Some cars have it happen, some don't.

I change every 5000 miles so I save money by not running synthetic.

My 2005 runner with 150,000 miles does not use oil but drips a small drop or two every week.

On synthetic it drips three times as often and makes a mess on the garage floor.

The oil drips (a few drops) is no big deal in a 15-year-old 4runner that still starts and runs like a new car.

 

I use 5w-30 full synthetic and have no leaks or problems.

 

That's great!

You deserve a medal.

 

Only if you hand it to me personally.

 

I live in FL, just bought a 2000 3rd gen with 240K miles from the second owner (firm partner) that bought it in 2002 with 25K miles on it. As the only guy at the firm with "car smarts" (mostly maintained my own various fun vehicles for 50 yrs and completely restored/rebuilt a couple), i seem to be the go-to guy for questions/problems for non-leased vehicles. My Runner is an always-Florida 2-wheel-drive Limited with absolutely no rust, regularly maintained as the family car, then his work car. As he did, I plan to use full synthetic (now "high-mileage" version) very 5K miles. not burning/using any, no leaks (except a little weeping around the valve covers), may switch to a partial synthetic blend, any thoughts? Is it ok to tighten the valve cover bolts a bit, they are more than finger tight, but seem a bit loose.

 

Don't switch to synthetic or the runner will surely leak a bunch of drops every day. Been there done that about two years ago and got oil drips.

Now with 150,000 miles, she starts and runs like when it was new. I'm original owner 2005. Thought to buy a new car; but, what for when this runs so maintenance-free.

No high speed driving in Nassau Bahamas, so maybe it's been babied.

I'm back on conventional oil and I just change it every 5000 miles - which I think it is better than any synthetic (with 10,000 mile intervals).

Synthetic oil is baloney, except for cars up north in the cold - especially Alaska.

Leave synthetic in for 12,000 miles and your oil will look like black mud and drain with zero viscosity IMO.

 

Never had any issues with full synthetic in any vehicle. Where are you leaking from? Stop blaming the oil and get your gaskets/seals looked at. Synthetic is vastly superior to conventional.

 

5k is a bit cautious and just sounds like throwing time and money away, but do as you please...

Yes you can tighten the valve cover bolts a little, you just don't want to squish the gasket too much so that it distorts the seal.

 

I use Costco (Kirkland) 5W-30 Full Synthetic with a FRAM Xtraguard filter, and I change it every 7K miles. Could probably go longer, but as scotty kilmer says, oil changes are cheap... new engines are expensive

 

Study after study shows synthetic as superior.

You will get leaks on very old engines due to crappy build tolerances that you can't do much about...but I'm talking pre-1990 cars.

3rd gens are built fine to use synthetic...but you have to make sure your seals are all good. Synthetic WILL lubricate away that dino oil sludge that has prevented those seals from leaking.

Now, for full disclosure...I run dino oil. Now that I changed my crank and cam seals and valve cover seals...I'm thinking on going synthetic to see what happens.

 

I use supertech 5w-30 synthetic oil and their filters. I, like most I think, was very skeptical at first but the more research I did and seeing testimonials from others who've used it and had hundreds of thousands of miles on their cars/trucks I have never looked back. If you haven't already seen it, watch Project Farm on youtube, he does a great job analyzing many oils. Supertech meets or exceeds the needed components which is good enough for me. I can change the oil and filter for about $20. Personally, just can't see spending $40+ more for paying for a name. My $.02, happy 4-Running!

 

The leaks are caused by synthetic oil in my 2005 4runner.

Positive about that. Been doing this for 5 years.

It leaks from above the pan so its hard to tell. Could be the HG, but it could be the VC too.

It's not the seals because when I switched back to conventional 0 30W oil the drips stopped.

So I run conventional and change every 5000 miles which IMO is superior to synthetic (which is overrated BS).

Oil gets dirty and black no matter what you use.

 

I have always used 5w-30 Mobil synthetic on my 97 SR5 5 speed standard. 348k miles. No oil drips currently; but have changed oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets before.

 

I'm at 347k, you're gonna JUST beat me to 350k!

 

I’m hoping I get to 400k. I have another 5vzfe I’m slowly rebuilding. If the old war horse gives ass I’ll just slap on the new refreshed engine.

 

Nice, mine was already 2RZ-FE swapped before I got it, under 200k on it. I'll happily put a third engine in mine when the time comes. These manuals are the best.

 

of course...of bread and circuses...........

 

actually, not a bad question...you would be surprised how many owners, really don't pay attention to what type of oil they used, and I've seen too many cases, of some owners, not changing oil on a timely basis....I've had to rebuild a few of these train wrecks, as I've pulled their engines..myself, I used 5w 30 mobil synthetic..and change on schedule. also use the best oil filter possible...I'm at 257 k, so I have a ways to catch up with some of you...I have recently replaced both the valve cover and oil pan gaskets..so I'm free of any oil leaking, etc ..

 

I maybe a knuckle head spending more but I like using the K & N oil filters since I have the cold air system. I attribute the life of my engine to the scheduled oil changes. I change the oil every 4K miles.

 

so is there a consensus? I grew up with Ford trucks, and in the 70s and 80s and 90s with regular oil in Ohio, 100K or so over 7-8 years was a used up truck motor waiting for motor rebuild or replacement. My '00 Runner with a constant full synthetic diet has 240K. It is still strong and giving me pause to think that MAYBE the old girl has another 100K in her, with a little TLC. Given what I've read in this forum (truly appreciate the level of experience and expertise available here), I am of the opinion that spending $500 to a grand (timing belt/water pump, radiator, LBJs) to get another 100K miles makes incredible common and economic sense. Besides, its just fun to drive.

 

Ya I’m like at 310,000 or so and it runs like brand new..