Need all new suspension components. Tiers?

What levels of suspension are there for 3rd gens 4runners?
e.g. for my 1st gen Tacoma:

0. Cheap aftermarket
1. F/R: OEM-spec/soft bilsteins
2. F/R: Bilstien 5100s & Eibach/OME coils, R: Dakar leaf springs
3. F: Adjustable all-in-one coilovers (Fox, King, Icon), R: Deaver leaf springs :: mid travel
3b. R: Adjustable rear struts (king, icon, fox, etc) :: mid-travel
4. F: Long travel kits

Go!

 

1st Gen Tacoma and 3rd Gen 4Runner share the same front suspension so that one is already answered.

I ran Fox 2.5 Front coilovers and Fox 2.0 Rear shocks on my 1st Gen Tacoma, along with OME Dakar leaf springs, and Wheeler's Superbumps -







The 4Runner wears King 2.5 Front coilovers and King 2.5 Rear shocks with reservoir and Durobump stops, along with OME906 springs -







Not done yet as I have a ton of parts sitting in boxes but just thought I'd share those I own(ed).

By the way, our vehicles don't use 'struts'

 

I'd say the rears on both 1st Gen Tacoma's and 3rd Gen 4Runner's flex pretty well; if you want to get more out of that rear end you may need to run limit straps depending on your coils...or at least weld something in place to keep them from falling out, and relocate your rear shocks. Tacoma owners often relocate their shock mounts as well but it's easier for them to do because they can weld a cross member under the bed easily.

 

Thanks man, looks great. I was like 90% sure the front was the same, so good to confirm.
My plan is to move my bilstiens & OME coils (3" lift) from the taco to the 4runner and upgrade the taco and find supporting springs for the 4runner rear. I'm assuming that should work unless the rear shocks are a different part on the 4runner?

How did you like the ride of Fox vs King?

 

With the exception of the way the sway bar mounts up front, or the lower ball joint, everything else is the same.

Bilsteins aren't serviceable so really I'd just leave them on the Tacoma and upgrade the 4Runner separately as I did. Even Bilsteins are throwaway shocks after so many miles.

The rear in both platforms is what sets them completely apart; leaf pack with eyelet to eyelet shocks on the Tacoma vs 4 link and panhard bar with coil springs and stem to eyelet shocks on the 4Runner.

You cannot mix and match rear suspension components.

 

It's hard to compare the two really; they offer the same type of dampening so I can't tell the difference between the two.

I ran 600lb springs on both the Fox 2.5 and King 2.5, but I had an ARB bumper on the Tacoma whereas I had no extra weight on the 4Runner.

Both vehicles rode stupidly nice on anything from speed bumps, bad roads with potholes, and especially washboards and anything offroad.

 

Ah bummer, I really have no use for the bilsteins then since they're topped out on my Tacoma's rear. The 4runner is kinda my backup/reliable car while I f*ck with all my other vehicles so it'd be fine with the Taco's suspension components (<30k miles on them), and it really needs something soon.

Whats the best budget upgrade for the rear then?

 

I'm all for buying new only, though you may find suggestions for used Tundra or Landcruiser springs.

I would suggest buying the appropriate OME springs, and throw some Bilstein 5100's in the back.

But really, what vehicle do you plan on modifying for some real off roading?

I plan on buying a solid axle rig so I'm about to sell my new in box, front diff Harrop locker. Being locked both front and back will make either platform stupidly capable.

 

The Tacoma. However, neither are 4x4 so "real" off-roading isn't really my intent.

Anyway, I appreciate all the insight. Thanks a lot!

 

That's an easy fix though.

You can source all the parts for cheap, and the entire conversion is as simple as bolting things in.

Front differential can be had for as little as 50-100; hell I have an extra one even. Just make sure it the gearing matches up with your rear.

J shift transfer case with an automatic transmission paired together is what I suggest getting unless your mechanically savvy. If so, then you could use your current transmission and swap out the output shaft. I forget if the bellhousings are the same or not, but I know the output shaft on the transmission needs to be replaced to mate it to the transfer case. The entire combo can be had for as little as 200 and up to 800 depending where you source it.

Front drive line gives you a few choices. Keeping it stupid simple, I'd suggest going with manual hubs. If you do this, you will either need to buy used spindles meant for manual hubs, or use your pre-existing spindles, and get the hub axle and bearing pressed out for the correct hub axle. The spindles are identical between 2 wheel drive 6 lugs and 4x4 variants; there are simply 3 hub axles as 1 is meant for 2wd, 1 is meant for manual hub, and 1 is meant for ADD axles. If you buy an entire setup it could cost as little as 200 or up to 500 or so. Nice thing about manual hubs is, they're super easy to rebuild.

You'll need axles, which I recommend buying online from a Toyota dealer (search for the best price to save) as OEM remans are your best bet.

After that, you'd just need drive shafts which I'd recommend buying a front from a donor, and get the rear shortened at any driveline shop. Can be done for as little as 50.

Without even selling your replaced parts, you can be into a 4x4 conversion for as little as 500 and up to 1500.

 

Fortunately as far as manual hubs go, you can buy them new from Rockauto, Low Range Off Road and several other places. Here's a set of new ones I had as well as a step by step on rebuilding one set (have rebuilt many) -



Nice thing about rebuilding your own is, you can paint them any color you want. For this set I chose the old school color scheme -

 

I need diagrams or something...lol.
I'd love to do a 4x4 conversion; I'm an engineer so I can figure out the puzzle, but the biggest problem is the sourcing parts, and knowing that I've bought the right thing so that 6 months down the line I'm not hundreds of dollar out of pocket when I realize Ive bought the wrong thing. I gotta say, your confidence is inspiring though.

 

Lol it's literally a simple bolt in solution but I'd be happy to walk you through it along the way.

Just understanding what the options available are, and how they work, makes it easier to figure out how they all assemble.

There are three transfer case options available, but two being the most popular to convert with in both 4Runners and Tacomas. Really there are only two transfer case options available strictly for the Tacoma.

One is the push button setup, which is electronically actuated and the other is a J shift setup, which engages 4H, N, and 4L manually. For obvious reasons, the J shift is often chosen due to simplicity. You don't run into having to get an ECM either with a J shift.

As for the driveline up front, you have manual hubs and ADD. ADD stands for automatic disconnecting differential, and is controlled via an actuator on the differential tube itself (passenger side).

Nice thing about the front diff is, the differential is identical whether you get one from an ADD setup or manual hub. The difference lies on the stub/shaft and diff tube that extends from the differential itself. A manual hub setup has a long tube and shaft whereas the ADD setup has an actuator attached on the outside.

One thing to keep in mind is there are two types of ADD setups; '98 and older are vacuum actuated whereas '99 and newer are electronically actuated. Another thing is, ADD is available with either J shift and push button transfer cases as the actuator on the differential receives a 'signal' from either transfer case telling it that the user wishes to engage 4x4.

Aside from that, it's all easy.

 

I guess I always thought only ADD existed; J-shift/manual hubs soun like a much better option for me, especially on the Tacoma for.... reasons. Guess I can find some parts and eyeball fit them to my vehicles if parts are as cheap as you say. Apparently my xmas bonus is going to be significant this year, so hey, the stars may align.

 

Early 1st gen Tacoma's came standard with manual hubs, and ADD was an option.

Going manual hubs and j shift means everything is strictly mechanical and you can just bolt in as far as conversion goes.

This is truly one platform that you can convert for less money than it would cost to sell your 2wd, and buy a 4wd instead.