Oil change 2018 TRD OffRoad

What mark are you trying to align? There’s a metal clip on the side of housing that has a tab that aligns with block. You snug up the filter and that clip that can be seen from side lines up. The o-ring illustrations are common sense, you install the o-ring in the groove, not on the base of the threads.

 

I use ramps.

 

Forget about that pointer tab. Torque the cap (housing) to 18 ft-lbs. It’s printed right on the cap (25 n-m). And torque the housing drain plug to 9 ft-lbs.

 

I have never tried to align any pointer tab. I didn't know there was such a thing. I tighten the housing until I feel some tension, and stop. No leaks so far. Is there a reason to align these things?

 

Missed it, thanks for this.

 

Are you sure the housing drain plug is 9 ft-lbs? I thought it was 20?

Edit: Nope, you're right! It's 9 ft-lbs.

 

I have the RCI skid with an access panel. I also have a few of the little plastic filter canister drain fittings. I’ve found they fit nicely into the end of a short piece of 1/2” EMT conduit. While it’s not yet time to change my oil, I plan to screw that drain fitting into the canister using that piece of conduit. I hope it will allow me to more easily align the fitting through the access panel and oil will drain out the conduit into my pan rather than down my elbow and all over my skid.

 

I gotta say, this entire thread is making me feel better and better about dropping my 4R off at a trusted mechanic shop two doors down from work, and walking back a couple hours later to pick it up.

Thanks 4runners.com! I knew there was a good reason I joined this group.

 

Why are you jacking up a 4ruuner?

 

I do because I rotate the tires at every oil change.

 

I pull ours up on ramps, jack it up more & put stands under the axles.
I am 6'4 230# & to do it all myself I need the room. One day I will have a vehicle lift!

Side note* anyone who thinks oil changes for a 4runner are expensive; try a synthetic oil change on a diesel motor! My 6.0 powerstroke takes 16 quarts of oil. Yes, I wrote that right. I buy a $125 on sale (T4 Rotella) 5 gal jug for one oil change. Add the $20 filter, fluids etc and time! Shit...
Oil changes are not fun or cheap if done well!
I also rotate my tires every time I do an oil change! Just a good practice.

 

This. Pricey though, ran me close to $400 US for the adapter & inverted remote filter mount. Still haven't gotten around to installing it yet, I have to have AN-10 lines made up for it

 

I liked my 4th gen filter on the top no mess did it for 11 years but the 5th gen well i am with you @glwood54 just give it to my mechanic and pay him and say thank you.

 

I know, right? The 2nd gen Tacoma oil filter location, top of the engine, next to the battery, with a drain tray, was the best idea since the Ford Model T. Why Toyota went away from that for the 4Runners is beyond imagining.

For what the mechanic shop charged me to change the oil, I'd be crazy to be jacking up a vehicle, crawling up under there, removing the skid plate, fiddling with the filter canister, draining oil, etc., yada yada. Been there, done that, and am over it. For those who love to do it, enjoy!

 

Don't bother, they're all 'out of office'. I hate this saying , "it is what it is" but....it is. Has anyone used the following 'quick drain oil valves', Stahlbus, FUMOTO, or Valvomax? Using one of these could eliminate some of the potential mess. The next question; the little plastic plug that comes with the raw filter media, can a vinyl tube be attached to that to direct drain from filter? Last question, I promise; the filter wrench. I see variations from Motiv, Lisle, and Summits 64mm filter wrench. Any opinions on these would greatly help a rookie with a new driveway not wanting create a cluster 'F' mess out of a simple oil change! Thanks in advance for any help offered.

 

You won't be disappointed!

 

You don't necessarily have to worry about doing the alignment same day unless it's really out of wack.

Sometimes it's better to go a few days to let things settle.......although Eibach has very little settling.

If you can't get it done same day, don't stress.

Just mark your cam bolts with a sharpie or some white-out and make sure they're in the same position when re-tightening the LCA bolts.

 

No opinion on pan drain valves.

I used a cheap Pennzoil branded filter wrench because am on the road and found no alternative. It worked, but had to use a 17mm socket to loosen as the opening for a 3/8" drive head rounded out. The Motiv branded wrench setting in my garage is significantly heavier/stouter, but priced accordingly.

Pay attention to these, would have helped the first time.

@Agent_Outside advice is solid. The oil in the filter is under some pressure. It spewed a small amount of oil when I inserted drain tube before settling down and draining the rest. His advice would eliminate that problem.

And @ElectroBoy eliminated biggest issue in my case. Buy a good 3/8" torque wrench and forget the alignment pointer.

 

I have a Fumoto valve. I love it.

Just makes things cleaner and easier (not that it's hard to remove the oil pan drain plug in the first place, but you know what I mean).

 

If you’re a busy person who doesn’t have the time or don’t like wrenching on your vehicle, by all means, take your 4R to a trusted mechanic (not the dealer of jiffy lube, you’ll be sorry).

But if you have a few extra tools you may kind of enjoy the oil change process. Like a drain plug valve, an oil filter drain valve, a good filter removal tool, and maybe the metal replacement oil filter housing. Getting your rig up on ramps may help too, it’s kind of tight crawling under there. The skid plate removal isn’t such a big deal, and I have a block of wood that I use to prop it up when reinstalling it.

Here are some of my observations I noted in the other forum.

 

So I’m currently looking at the Toyota’s repair manual.

The oil filter cap gets tightened to 25 n/m
The oil filter cap drain plug gets tightened to 13 n/m
The oil pan drain plug gets tightened to 40 n/m

There are no special alignment marks that need to be lined up in a specific place.

 

There's an easier way to announce you're a communist.

 

Exactly why they are designed to not be simple but be as aggravating as hell.. Makes one say screw it, I'm taking it to the dealer... Please don't throw me in the briar patch!

 

You're probably past this point, but the Fumoto valve is pretty good. I've been a fan for quite some time and have them on some different apps. The Fumoto valve come standard (at least it did on ours) on Komatsu equipment; dozer, excavator etc. I put one on my Arctic Cat 4stroke snowmobile and never had a problem with any of them. As far as the thinking; looks like they could vibrate 'loose' and pour out the oil, not happening! At least ours never have.

 

Pennzoil Platinum