What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

If you're interested in a cheaper, faster solution (that still maintains correct optics and projection) try H9 halogen bulbs. Almost double the factory output and they cost $8 each.

 

I like this, looks great! Been thinking about replacing my Yakima with the N-Fab. Question if you don't mind: How much height does the N-Fab rack add to the truck (in other words, what's the distance from the roof of the truck to the top of the rack)?

 

edit: bad pics from iphone (wont rotate either), a bit over 1" 3/4 middle of the roof to the rack, about 1"1/2 in the front, and about 5"3/4 total height above the roof by the antenna.

That is the normal position; here are a few more pics to get a better view. I left 2-3mm gap on each side. That’s 0.08 to 0.11 inches on each side.
It took me about 2 hours by myself , taking my time. Lots of screws to deal with. Seems nice quality and very light. Very little noise on the highway, went up to 80ish mph. Pay attention when getting the rack on top of the vehicle. Use a ladder, it will be way easier.

 

Got it undercoated yesterday. I used Dominion no drip. It has very little drip indeed, it’s black and it gets everywhere. I didn’t drill any holes, but I loaded up the frame big time with it.
I want to keep it for a long time and the brine they put on the roads here is super bad.

 

Thanks so much for the detail and pics! I appreciate it. Got a Yakima rack on the top of mine (have the Venture), but like the lower profile of this. Yakima makes a ton of wind noise, especially noticeable with the moonroof open. I don't need it to hold a ton of weight, so this may be a solid option.

 

We are going for a camping trip for 3-4 days, possibly 6, around Algonquin park. I made a quick bed for the roadrunner to get rid of the gap; we are not taking a tent with us. I cut a piece of the cheapest plywood I could find. I screwed 3 2x3s on the bottom at 4” from the sides and the middle at 16”. The plywood is 43”1/2 wide and 40” long. It fits perfectly as the 2x3 is actually 2”1/2 and with the plywood, it’s right there. The 2x3 are 35” long and set them up 5” from the top so the gap covers the inclined ridge and doesn’t move any more forward. I used 2”1/2 wood screws.
I am wrapping it up in automotive carpet.
We are using a thick blanket underneath and we sleep on a -40F sleeping bag (for thickness and cover from cold, it was 23F and cover) with another -40F sleeping bag.
Dunno why the iPhone rotates them...must be a feature, not a bug.

 

Installed my custom built molle panel I built based off of thatbadassguy’s design.

 

Yeah but it probably cost me double...so I am out about $75 Roughly.

 

Not that you need it......but just for consideration.........you might be able to turn the brackets that attach to your factory rails (in your second pic) upside down so that the rack sits lower.

 

What ya using for material- looks like 1/8” aluminum thats many 1/2”-3/4” wide

 

I thought about it, however, i read on these forums that when loaded, the crossbars sag a bit, but never touch the roof; why risk it? There is zero added noise on the current height, it has a safe gap for those nice potholes when loaded or over the trails.
Also, the instructions paper in the box says 125lb, the website says 150lb.

 

1/8 x 1 inch flat bar aluminum you can buy at any Home Depot or Lowe’s. I figure on mine I used about 19ft worth.

 

That is EXACTLY what I used. 1" wide, I think. I bought everything at Menards and Home Depot, except for the hardware, which came from a local hardware store.

 

but I did for cost savings buy bulk hardware from Amazon. All the nuts bolts and washers are way cheaper on there.

 

That looks great! Did you use the aluminum stock to make the strap hanger as well? Any other tips would be appreciated as well...

 

Yes, I did. It is bolted in where the cargo hook was attached, along with my fishing rod rack.

 

just like mine! Except I used the factory hook on top. I just cut a alignment hole to match the factory one so that the original hook fits over the top. Stock bolt worked great too.

 

now I just need to spend another 2 weeks making the drivers side

 

Nice ! Do you happen to have a (expanded) pic between the spare tire and the rear bumper ?

 

giveaway wheels from summit off road finally arrived can't wait to throw these on they look way better in person

 

gotcha. Looks like it came out pretty sporty

I’d probably use rivets just to use up some of the stuff I aready have

 

I’d have loved to use rivets but that would be investing in a rivet gun and times are tight lol.

 

Question on the TW thread - does the following paragraph in that writeup mean that the newer Osram bulbs need an upgrade in the wiring harness to reach their potential? Or was the problem due to the two different brand bulbs being installed at the same time?

Starved
With the 35w Osram HIR and the 30w Philips HIR installed at the same time, the max lux reading was 460 from the 35w Osram HIR, which was less than the 486 I had previously measured the 30w Philips HIRs at. The Osram should come in about 15% higher than the Philips based on the specs. Something was off. I initially used a newer professional grade light meter for the updated comparison reading, but went back to my hobbiest light meter to eliminate the variable with no better results. After thinking it through I realized the lights are choking on overloading the small gauge reverse wiring. Removing the 30w Philips bulb the 35w Osram shot up to 529 lux, a 15% improvement. This places measured readings of the Osrams about 10% brighter than Philips, which is approximately inline with the specs.

If you've read my other lighting threads about installing a standalone harness, this is proof of the benefit. Stock wiring hinders performance when turning up the wattage by restricting power. In this case a 860 lumen bulb is failing to provide performance of even a 750 lumen bulb due to inadequate wiring. A relayed standalone harness for the reverse lights would provide at least 15% benefit and likely more by going to a heavy gauge wire. This would also alleviate the load on the tow circuit while providing even brighter reverse lights. Note for future mod.

 

Well, still no ETA on the Marlin Crawler gussets (ordered in late August); and with a glimmer of hope of getting other stuff in time for this weekend (our Offroad group is doing our fall color run)... I did the fiscally responsible mans cam gusseting, and just put a big weld bead behind each tab. I was close to overnighting some TC gussets, but figured this was basically free, should do the job, and if I decide to still do the MC gussets later on, should fit with just a bit of grinding. (I did have a couple bent tabs).

UCA’s show up tomorrow; so should be able to get everything mostly back together; then just to sit back and hope coilovers show up on or by Friday. With time to throw them in, wheels on, and a DIY alignment.

If not, I’ll be riding shotgun in a “gasp” Jeep. (Not really a big deal, but figured that comment would add a bit of drama to the post, lol).

 

Finally installed my lift. Eibach shocks w/ dobinsons springs.

 

So I did the cheap LED bulb kit swap out for $20.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/css/order...&pf_rd_p=d8e05aa3-599e-414f-a5ce-cce5b9a20ea7

I'm not providing any pics because there are plenty out there for reference. I will say once the sun went down I was pretty impressed with how much brighter the inside was.

With that said I am not sure what four door puddle lights will do. Maybe once I am in a pitch black parking spot and I'm getting out of the door I'll notice if they have any value.

I did not swap out the footwell on the mirrors. Partly because it was close to 7:00 PM and I was running out of daylight quick, but mostly because you have to damn near take the whole mirror apart. Screw that!

Then there is the pointless glove box light that comes with the kit. From what I read you have to essentially take the whole glove box apart to get to the light. Then you'll find out it's not a plug and play light like the rest of the lights are. Is that true?

So out of 16 bulbs in the kit I used 13.

In my opinion if you find a kit out there that only has 9 bulbs in it I'd recommend that for normal schmucks like me. The two vanity, the two map, the dome, the two rear hatch door, and the two license plate are good enough.

FYI...the dome LED bulb seems like its just a tad too long. Doesn't really feel like it snaps in as well as the two in rear hatch door do. I have a feeling if I hit a huge bump or pothole it's gonna pop out.

 

Looks great!

How's it ride?

 

Great! Very smooth and no more brake dive. In case anyone is wondering. Dobinsons 300/723 coils. The KDSS specific coil is prefect. No lean.

 

I agree how the lighting changes with making the color different. Looks good. Just finished mine up with Griots correction cream and 2 coats of the ceramic spray. It’s prepared for the winter.