Camshaft Seal replacement

Any special tools/equipment needed for a camshaft seal replacement on the 1993 3.0L?!

Any insight on what to do/not do while attempting?

I plan on doing water pump, timing belt and exterior belts too, any parts cost knowledge of things other parts needed?

Thanks in advance!

 

Other than the typical hammer and something to hammer with you need to install a seal, the tricky part is removing the seal. The camshaft seals, like the oil pump seal (which would be worth doing while you have the timing belt off), are tough because the shaft still goes through the seal so there's no room to get a screwdriver in there. I would highly recommend getting a puller tool (such as https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K). It's not a perfect solution and will probably need to be bent back in shape while using it, but it's much better than trying to use a screwdriver and gouging the camshaft. You'll also want to get or borrow a cam pulley holder tool (such as https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W89208-Pulley-Maximas/dp/B002KSEJ6Q) for holding the cam pulley in place while you take off the bolt holding it on. I made do with a serpentine belt tool and a hose clamp, but was very sketchy and left unsightly marks on the purty cam pulleys. Ummm, I would go with OEM seals from Toyota. They're affordable for OEM and not worth going cheap on. While you have all of that off, might consider getting new idler pulleys too. Both of mine were making slight grinding noises when I replaced them and they're pretty affordable as well.

If you don't have some already, you'll need RTV for the water pump (and top idler pulley if you decide to replace that). They make a specialized RTV for water pump and coolant applications.

The whole reason I had to take mine apart in the first place was because the 'Radiator Fan Clutch Bearing' seized up and broke my alternator belt. Once you have it off, I would spin it and give it a listen and see if it's making noise, because if that things fails, you're dead in the water and it's a pain getting out because it's behind the other two accessory belts.

The AISIN Timing Belt, Water Pump, and Component kit on RockAuto goes for about $187. With the seals, accessory belts, and various products that come out of a tube, I'd say this can all be done for less than $250. It goes without saying, but take your time and do it right. Don't want to have to take it apart again once you're done. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Great response and thanks for the insight, glad to know I can get such thorough answers by members here!

So the puller tool would need to be modified to actually function properly for this job? Would it also work for oil pump seal?! I've been quoted insane labor costs from shops and understand it can be a bitch but if no engine pull or specialized equipment is required, I think it would be worth it to give it a go.

 

The puller tool doesn't need to be modified to start, but it gets bent easily and will need to be bent back between pulls. Yes it works on both the camshafts and the oil pump seal.

No engine pull required. A 10, 12, and 14mm will get you most of the way. If you make sure to follow the FSM, it's not a hard job. Takes some time, but not very difficult.

 

Screw a "drywall" screw or two into the face of old seal and pull it out. Here is a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ehqz1Y-ggGo

 

@Fishguy epic hack, does it look like the engine is pulled to be able to access that way?

Thanks for the insight ✊

 

I don't think the engine/trans/whatever needs to be pulled as long as you can get a screw in there without harming the shaft and ya got room to pull it out.

I haven't tried it yet. I am afraid to wish for a chance.

 

That's genius. Wish I'd known about that trick. Given that I used a hammer and punch to put the seal in, I'm sure there's enough room on all three of those seals.

 

Now pull the dowel pins that key the pulleys to the camshafts. Set pulleys on the cams and loosely install the bolts so the pulleys can spin on the cams. Set the timing belt and marks in place at TDC for #1 and set the tensioner. Rotate the crank shaft 2 revolutions and see that the marks realign when you reach TDC for #1. Yank cam pulley bolts and rotate crank to put dowels back in and torque cam pulley bolts to specification.

If you do it this way you don't have to fight with the cams and valve springs trying to move the pulleys while you get the belt set up correctly.

 

@atgparker thanks for the added tip! Much appreciated.