What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

I just got the light on the Corolla during the last cold snap. Both fronts were down to 25 psi. Aired them up all is good?

 

You never need to blur your plates, there's no point.

 

quick 30 minutes later

 

Found my favorite headlight. Its a retrofit LED projector and checked driving in a car and walking up the street. Absolutely does not blind people. The brights would be blinding. Knowing this I wont flash anyone, even idiots driving with brights on

 

You have to pull apart the whole housing for this?

 

Yeah it's a retrofit. I'm not talented enough to bake a headlight in an oven so bought them made by Kustom54

 

Is it projector for the high beam as well?

 

Yeah, it's high and low beam. The headlight oem high beam becomes a dummy light.
Not mine but heres some dude in a runner driving with the high beams on around 1:25 marker

 

After doing the Tacoma myself I am strongly considering doing the same to runner. Baking the headlights is easy it’s pulling them apart that is the nervous part lol. But the stock headlights on this truck fail miserably compared to my mori motos I had in the Tacoma.

 

Installed the nfab basket yesterday

 

Nice! This on my list of next upgrades. Looks really good.

 

Nice!

Did you install it a little bit higher up on the roof rails or is that the normal positioning?

 

If you're interested in a cheaper, faster solution (that still maintains correct optics and projection) try H9 halogen bulbs. Almost double the factory output and they cost $8 each.

 

I like this, looks great! Been thinking about replacing my Yakima with the N-Fab. Question if you don't mind: How much height does the N-Fab rack add to the truck (in other words, what's the distance from the roof of the truck to the top of the rack)?

 

edit: bad pics from iphone (wont rotate either), a bit over 1" 3/4 middle of the roof to the rack, about 1"1/2 in the front, and about 5"3/4 total height above the roof by the antenna.

That is the normal position; here are a few more pics to get a better view. I left 2-3mm gap on each side. That’s 0.08 to 0.11 inches on each side.
It took me about 2 hours by myself , taking my time. Lots of screws to deal with. Seems nice quality and very light. Very little noise on the highway, went up to 80ish mph. Pay attention when getting the rack on top of the vehicle. Use a ladder, it will be way easier.

 

Got it undercoated yesterday. I used Dominion no drip. It has very little drip indeed, it’s black and it gets everywhere. I didn’t drill any holes, but I loaded up the frame big time with it.
I want to keep it for a long time and the brine they put on the roads here is super bad.

 

Thanks so much for the detail and pics! I appreciate it. Got a Yakima rack on the top of mine (have the Venture), but like the lower profile of this. Yakima makes a ton of wind noise, especially noticeable with the moonroof open. I don't need it to hold a ton of weight, so this may be a solid option.

 

We are going for a camping trip for 3-4 days, possibly 6, around Algonquin park. I made a quick bed for the roadrunner to get rid of the gap; we are not taking a tent with us. I cut a piece of the cheapest plywood I could find. I screwed 3 2x3s on the bottom at 4” from the sides and the middle at 16”. The plywood is 43”1/2 wide and 40” long. It fits perfectly as the 2x3 is actually 2”1/2 and with the plywood, it’s right there. The 2x3 are 35” long and set them up 5” from the top so the gap covers the inclined ridge and doesn’t move any more forward. I used 2”1/2 wood screws.
I am wrapping it up in automotive carpet.
We are using a thick blanket underneath and we sleep on a -40F sleeping bag (for thickness and cover from cold, it was 23F and cover) with another -40F sleeping bag.
Dunno why the iPhone rotates them...must be a feature, not a bug.

 

Installed my custom built molle panel I built based off of thatbadassguy’s design.

 

Yeah but it probably cost me double...so I am out about $75 Roughly.

 

Not that you need it......but just for consideration.........you might be able to turn the brackets that attach to your factory rails (in your second pic) upside down so that the rack sits lower.

 

What ya using for material- looks like 1/8” aluminum thats many 1/2”-3/4” wide

 

I thought about it, however, i read on these forums that when loaded, the crossbars sag a bit, but never touch the roof; why risk it? There is zero added noise on the current height, it has a safe gap for those nice potholes when loaded or over the trails.
Also, the instructions paper in the box says 125lb, the website says 150lb.

 

1/8 x 1 inch flat bar aluminum you can buy at any Home Depot or Lowe’s. I figure on mine I used about 19ft worth.

 

That is EXACTLY what I used. 1" wide, I think. I bought everything at Menards and Home Depot, except for the hardware, which came from a local hardware store.

 

but I did for cost savings buy bulk hardware from Amazon. All the nuts bolts and washers are way cheaper on there.

 

That looks great! Did you use the aluminum stock to make the strap hanger as well? Any other tips would be appreciated as well...

 

Yes, I did. It is bolted in where the cargo hook was attached, along with my fishing rod rack.

 

just like mine! Except I used the factory hook on top. I just cut a alignment hole to match the factory one so that the original hook fits over the top. Stock bolt worked great too.

 

now I just need to spend another 2 weeks making the drivers side