285's / Mudflaps and UCAs

Question, got a shop that actually specializes in Toyota lifts tell me there is no way to keep the mud flaps when adding a UCA and have proper alignment??????
I have 285's now with no rubbing (street use) but still needs an alignment. They said to be safe do the BCM but ya gotta lose the flap. I told them many kept the flaps from what I read on the forum, they said it can't happen.

 

I had to notch the hell out of my flaps in order to keep them (285's, lifted, aligned, stock UCA's). So while I still have my flaps. There's a giant square cut out of the fronts to keep from rubbing.

Another option is Rokblokz. They have lower profile mudflaps.

 

Thats a bunch of horseshit.
285/70/17 on Pro wheels 2.75 inches of lift with SPC UCAs.
Kept the flaps with no issues. NO BMC and alignment is perfect.

 

Depends on your wheel specs too. Poke too far out and it’ll 100% rub on the flap.

 

What's the offset on your wheels?

What's your caster at now? Do you have aftermarket UCA's?

Have them push your caster up as high as they can get it. Ideally, it would be in the 3.5 to 4 degree range. That's your best chance at getting away from mudflap removal / BMC. However, you might not be able to achieve those caster numbers with stock UCA's and anything above a 2" lift. Aftermarket UCA's will allow for higher caster numbers.

The caveat to pushing your caster up to 4 degrees is that it might cause a rub on the front fender liner, but pushing that fender liner forward and trimming a small corner of your front fender flare is easier than a BMC chop and mudflap removal.

In short, your wheel offset and caster will largely dictate where you're rubbing. Your caster is dictated by lift height and UCA's.

 

Rims are 4.5 backspace and zero offset. Looking straight down they are under the fender and do not stick out.
I did tick the front fender and took a heat gun to the mud flap. Currently pre alignment I've got zero rubbing. Not sure of castor but the shop was laughing at the initial installers alignment, said the got the adjusters turned the wrong way. that shop sent it to a Ford dealer who is clueless and could not get it in spec (had 265s at the time)
All I'm looking for is a true alignment so nothing wears

 

I'm running 285/70/17 Toyo AT3's with -6 offset, 2.3" lift, UCA's, BMC and Rokblokz mud-flaps. I rub slightly on the mud-flaps turning in reverse. My caster is at 3.9, so maximum within factory spec. With 0 offset, it might not rub. Although, maybe it would still rub with the wheel stuffed in the wheel-well while off-roading. Either way, it's not enough to really bother me.

 

Got it.

Stock UCA's right?

First thing I would do is get an alignment and tell the tech to push your caster as high as they can get it. It'll still be within spec because your lift and stock UCA's (I'm presuming) won't allow the caster to be pushed out spec. Toe and camber should also be within spec (obviously). Once that is done, re-evaluate your situation. Does it still rub? Where does it rub? Ect....

Also, buying a lifetime alignment is always a good investment with offroad trucks so that if you decide to go higher/lower, put UCA's on, replace shocks......you won't be dumping a bunch of money on alignments all the time.

 

What is their definition of "proper alignment"? Factory spec? For non-factory parts? It is ridiculous but common.
It's possible what they really mean about being toyota specialists is that they install a lot but that doesnt mean they do it well. Or they might be right and your wheels will cause an issue. Hard to say.
I ran 1.5" lift with 285s on facory uca and original factory alignment for about a year. It did rub but was drivable. I did the ziptie mod on the mudflaps which helped.
Adjusted lift up another inch and finally did an alignment to fully fix the rub on mudflaps area. Maxed out caster which pushed wheels forward. Rode fine for another year like that (2.5 inch lift, still oem uca).
I just installed UCA a week or so ago finally but still kept caster maxed out. Steering feels more "heavy" which I like and ball joint is not maxed out at full suspension droop now.