First Gen Toyota 4quoia with a (2uz-fe) v8 (start up post 230)

I guess if it ain't broken...

I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out! It's also been interesting seeing all of the struggles. Good work!

 

Got the rear drive-line from the machine shop. I took the original v6 t4r rear drive line and slipped on the front yoke from the 01 Sequoia. It has a larger bolt pattern. I needed it to be 41 1/4 inches bolt flat to bolt flat.
I thought I would stump the parts store buying u joints for it. Turns out they use the same u joint for both vehicles.

as I got it from the machine shop


with new u joints and paint


Installed


One less thing to do on the check list.
I did also do a little work on the fan wiring.

 

I have gotten the electric fans all wired up and removed the A/C wires from the engine bay. I powered the dual 11 inch fan relay with power from the RR heater relay. I did leave the original relay in place for possible use later. The duel fans are pushers and sit in front of the radiator.


They only get power when the key is on. The duel fan relay did have a provision for A/C and when it gets power the fans come on. I think I will bring this wire inside as a back up power switch to turn them on in an emergency. The 16 inch puller fan that is placed inside the radiator. It is ran off the A/C fan relay that is marked CDS fan relay. I still need to mount a second coolant temp switch to the engine. I did rewire this relay to have power all the time. so the fan will remain on, pulling air through the radiator onto the engine until it is deactivated by the coolant temp switch. I have the fans all in place and, radiator installed for mark up and the fans tested to work. It all looks good. Now all I need to do is finish positioning the wires, wrap them, then tape them up for the engine bay to be done.

I have three systems planned for the dash system. the 4wd switch, O/D swich, and shift lock switch. I also think I may cut out the JBL stereo system as it does not really conform to the 89 t4r compact size.

I didn't take many photos of the engine wiring. I will do that when its done. So here is a photo from the front. The dual fans can be seen in the grill.


You may also notice the 2 stock fog light pig-tails hanging out waiting for a nice fog light option. Any Ideas???

 

This is such a awesome idea! And a great build man. I really like the whole setup. The 1st gen body. With the v8 yota power (lexus same thing). I settled for my 350 swapped 1st gen. But I would of much rather found a setup like what you're building. If I had the resources I'd definitely attempt what you got going on. Very cool. Cant wait to see it done.



Edit: Before I joined 4runners.com I googled 1st gen swaps and instantly came across this build and read through the whole thread. So intriguing.

 

Thank you. I have a lot left to do. Its not all perfect, but its all me. Summer is right around the corner. My goal when I started was to have it running this spring-summer. I kinda bounce around on tasks of the build, but the goal is moving forward. I have all the parts. All the difficult parts and tasks have been done. I still have to finish 4 of the 10 frame to body mounts, install fuel tank, fuel lines, brake lines, and finish cab wiring. Well I guess that kind of adds up.

 

fuel tank has been decided. I wanted the 18 gallon of the 1996 toyota 4runner, but the tank was too long. It would not be as simple as a tank that was designed for the frame. Today I went and got the fuel tank from the tacoma I got the rear locker from. The tank was already removed and sitting in the bed. It fits the shape of the cross member. I just have to finish the 2nd front cross member where the tank mounts. This cross member did have a center support bearing that I will not be using. It was a king cab tacoma. Here are the two tanks side by side.



fuel fill may be tricky, but I do believe I will have easy success with the tacoma tank.

 

I really like this thread. Please keep it comin OP. This has been fun to watch (and read)!

 

No problem. Like you said, you got most of the difficult tasks achieved. And what's even cooler, like you said, is that it's all you. You're really talented. And I'd be happy knowing just what you've forgot about toyotas. Can't wait to see the 4quoia finished. You gotta be proud in the fact that you've kept it all yota. I'll keep checking in. Iim already considering swapping out my radiator/fan set up with what you've done. I dont go over 220. And it stays around 180 idling. But when any power is asked of the engine it starts to heat up fast. My chevota, I mean. But, it's all in the journey. I need to get it in good running condition cause it's my only vehicle. I'll make it happen as I can though. I'll keep an eye on this thread for sure!

 

Custom LEDs?

 

It is the hyden fan relay wires wired to the duel fans outside of the radiator in the core support. I found 3 plugs off the original t4r that the fans would plug into. If a fan fails, I will be able to replace it with ease, plug and play. The wires are from the original harness too. I had to search for the correct gauge wire. But now that you mention it...

here is a better look. To the left you can see the relay. The fan relay is adjustable.

 

Oh sorry. I misunderstood. I thought you were asking for alternatives to the fog lights. Lol. Man! You have alot of patience, and are much more organized then myself. I'm jealous of all you guys that have a place to work on your rigs. I'm anxious to tinker with mine and get things cleaned up. But doing it in the apartment parking lot is frowned upon. I'll have to find somewhere to do my upgrades.


Edit: my trucks a push start. And just above the push start is a switch for the fan. But the relay is wrong so I gotta get that figured out to. So for now it's just clipped to the battery when it's running. Lol

 

I don't always win.

I held up the tacoma gas tank and it did fit the frame awesome, but... not the bottom of the 4runner.

So now I have two more options. Try the 4runner tank I wanted and make it fit. Keep in mind the 96 4runner is 2 inches longer in wheel base from the 98 tacoma frame being used and i did move the rear end forward. So room is running out. I have the rear end locker, transfer case, drive line and frame constricting tank space. Even if able to be used, I may have to run the exhaust in a way that is not desirable.

This is the 96 t4r 18 gallon.


My other option is to use the original first gen t4r tank and make it fit the frame. This would be okay, but I do not know how the 01 sequoia wiring will work with the t4r wiring.

 

Seeing how well you've done so far overcoming obstacles. Theres no doubt whatever route you decide, you'll make happen. Keep at it!

 

Okay this is what I came up with. I decided to try the 96 t4r tank with the tank cross-member bracket. I had to cut off the old frame first.


I had to get a look at how the tank would look mounted to this cross-member and how close it would be to everything.

The next problem was the original cross-member. I did not cut it out completely because the e brake cable is mounted to it. It just so happened to be the side I wanted the gas tank to be on. So It had to go. No point in stopping if you can't go.


I guess I will figure out how to make the e brake work later.

So I hammered the cross-member in and attached the tank.
There really was no place for the exhaust. It just hits a dead end. it will have to cross over as high and tight as it can.

Here is a look at the tanks new home.

 

Nope not no work today.
Yesterday I did put two straps together to make a band for the rear of the tank. In the previous photo, a orange ratchet strap can be seen. This is where the strap goes. The 96 t4r tank is larger at the rear. I had to cut out part of the cross-member to fit the couture of the tank. Out of the 4 fuel tanks 3 had straps. I took the longest strap and it was about 1.5 inches to short. Looking at how the ends are put together with pinch welds, I figured I could use the pinch weld drill bit to take the end off. Then I just cut the end off another one. I took the rubber off the band. I then attached both ends to the truck frame. I had to straiten the long band and re bend to match the tank shape and make it as tight as I could. Where they over lapped, I cleaned the paint off. I made a mark were the pinch weld drill bit hole was. Then took both ends off, clamped them together and welded it up. I then hit it with the flap disk, put some paint on it, and then put the rubber band cover back on. The thickness of the band with the band cover tightened up the tank hold. I still need to pull the tank out and address the area that was cut out of the cross-member. I was thinking of using some more of the tank strapping to make a nice cozy home for the top of the tank to be in contact with. I also need to figure out what I will be doing with the e-brake cable. Also the fuel tank skit plate needs a little modifying. It bolts to the fuel tank cross-member at the front. Then there is one bolt flange that contacts the frame before the leaf spring. Maybe drill a hole and thread it? the rear two mounts need a lot more help.

 

All that writing in a post for a single little ity bity part and no photo, well here it is.
I just realized our cat is in the photo. Say hello to Pearl.

 

I just read the first 5 pages. I am in awe of your work and envious of your talent.

Very excited to see how this ends up.

 

Thank you very much.
Such work is proof that a person can do what they put their mind to. I have no mechanical training. I did take a metal/wood shop classes in high school. I thought I would get a cheap ride and fix it up and every thing else would fall in line. LOL! I guess I never grew out of that faze because I am still trying to make something cool, but I was never really able to pay anyone to work on my ride. My father did like chevy trucks and they were easy to work on. I watched him make repairs and would jump in when I could. He helped me when I got stuck. As time went on, I ended up becoming his personal mechanic. I did clean up for a local shop after high school, but not mechanics. I wanted to save the passion for the hobby I love. I really get a kick out of the wiring now. It makes more sense to me more now than ever.

 

I took a look at the receipt of the 4runner and noticed I missed the one year anniversary of purchase. It was June 14th, WOW! A year has gone by.

Yesterday I connected the 4wd switch and overdrive switch. They are not finished, but are in working order as wiring may be moved at this stage in the dash.

Today i decoded the pinout of the shift lock. My manual is for a 03 tacoma and the shift lock is a 96 t4r so the wire colors are different. My next move on this is to integrate the shift lock into the sequoia wiring system. The sequoia had a column shift so there are no previsions for the shift lock. The shift lock is activated by ACC power and a signal from the brake switch allowing the shift lever to move from park.

 

The Sequoia has a power sun roof and its safe to say I will not be using this electrical system. The main power for the sun roof will now be for a power wire of the shift lock. Originally the sun roof was a 25A fues and the shift lock is 15A, so I just swapped out the 25A for a 15A fues. Okay that's one wire 4 to go.

 

Wires, wires, wires, wires, It does not really look that good! I did get the shift lock to work proper. I have not set the wires to place. I need to have all the components installed for routing and wire length. So It is not soldered yet, just functioning. It is kinda scary looking. I put colored circle's around the fuse box. The five wires are Blue white (ACC), Black red (Ignition), White black (Ground), Green white (brake switch), Yellow green (key unlock switch) The first three come from the fuse block. These were to the sun roof.


This is were I tied into the brake signal switch. I found one empty slot, top left. This junction block ties 3 to 4 wires into the same system. I got the Green white wire from another wire harness to match color.


This Yellow green wire is from the key switch. When a key is inserted it grounds the yellow green wire. It then travels to the body ecu. I did not want to run extra wire from the kick panel to the shift lock, so I just spliced it in here near the key.


like I said it looks like a scary mess, but it works now. I put the key in, press the brake peddle, and a slight click can be herd then the button on the lever can be pressed and moved into gear.

 

I ran into a problem with the shift lock. The blue w white stripe wire that powered the sun roof had power all the time. It did cause some sort of feed back from the shift lock. It was causing the efi relay to flutter click. It would do this with the key out of the ignition. I figured out that it was the Yellow w green stripe wire by pulling it off. I also found that I was able to shift out of park without the key in the on position. I solved this by taking a gray ACC wire that was from the radio amplifier system that I fully removed. I attached it to the blue w orange wire on the shift lock. I moved the black w red from the blue w orange to the yellow w red stripe. The system is working fine and the EFI relay is not twitching anymore.

 

brain is on wire, wire, wire, wire.... = fried brain! Starting on doors, needing some easy win, I worked on the door courtesy switch's.


In the Sequoia the front door switches are at the rear of the door. In the 4runner they are at the front. When I had the wiring out, I had removed the wire's from the rear to the front plug end. This end is at the front door kick panel. This is the passenger side. The Light green w black stripe is the wire I am after. It can be seen at the bottom of the plug, the wire has been removed.


Now i needed to remove the light green black stripe wire from the top of the plug and connect to first gen t4r door switch.

I went to the stock first gen t4r harness and found the plug end.

I depinned it.


It just so happened to have the same pin size and shape. So the old first gen t4r plug end fit the 01 sequoia wire perfectly.


And now it is hooked up.

So easy like it was meant to be.

I then did the same for the drivers side. So easy right? It hooked up nice, but then the darn door buzzer would not shut off so I unhooked it. Now the passenger side was still hooked up. After a while of messing with wires, I had enough and put things away. I went to the passenger side to lock the door. When I opened the door, the alarm went off. I could not shut it off because I had the drivers door ECU unplugged. So I had to disconnect the battery, LOL!

This brings a new potential problem. To use the 01 sequoia door lock system with security, I will need to have the drivers door ECU installed.
This is it.


I do not need the rear window switches. I took the unit apart. while I may be able to remove the switches, the computer board cannot be altered. Now what to do? I would like to use the stock first gen t4r door switches, but I am not sure I can. It may be possible To mount the unit some place in the center near the shift lever. PT cruisers have the window switches in the center dash. IDK???

 

I figured a way around using the sequoia door switches. The drivers door switch sends a signal to all the other door ecu's. Without it being plugged in, the rear window would not work. I think I fried the drivers door ecu messing with the wires trying to figure it out. You may think this was bad news right? Nope, because I had to find out how to roll up the rear window.

The drivers door, passenger door and rear door all have one wire in common that activates the main power relay. The main power relay pin #1 red wire w blue stripe when connected to power supply switches on Main power relay connecting power to 20a power no.4 and 20a power no.3. both of which had no power on ether side of fuse in fuse panel in cab.


I used a jumper wire and stuck it into a black w red stripe wire that comes from ignition and the main power relay would click supplying power to both power no.3 and no.4. and the rear window would roll up and down. So that meant that I do not need to run the sequoia door window and lock switches. This was good news because making the door switches fit the first gen door panels would definitely get ugly.

I spent some time wrapping my mind around the systems of both vehicles, trying to figure out what systems to use from what truck and what to expect as far as function would be concerned. This was just for the front doors regarding the door locks and power windows. I even took the time to hook up the first gen t4r door control separate. I attempted to hook into it the 01 sequoia lock and unlock function. It kinda worked, but did not have enough power to lock and unlock the door. It just slightly bumped the lock actuator. I also found that the door control relay box I have is damaged. When I pulled the green board from the box a piece fell out.

While this did cause doubt, when hooked up, the drivers window did work. The passenger window also worked at the door, but the window switch is failing. It would go down but not each time and not up. I had to reverse the wires at the motor to get the window back up.

I now have the sequoia door lock wires connected, soldered and working with the key fob.

I know that I need another door control and passenger door window switch to test further.
The door lock and unlock of the door control do not work. The drivers door window switch does not work the passenger window unless I hook them directly to the window motor. If I hook it up this way the driver door master switch would be the only switch that would make the window work.

I am moving forward just slowly.

Oh ya, the alarm was going off because I did not have a closed circuit at the hood switch. I may have a cool solution for this later.

 

Wow. I just read this straight through. This has to be one of the coolest classic 4R custom builds ever done. Your documentation will be appreciated for so many different future researchers, probably on a range of builds. Big props to you for keeping that thing looking so stock. All that work makes my fuddy-duddy tinkering seem so insignificant, yet makes me want to get to work. Fabbing and wiring like that blows my mind, I could never. I am also amazed at the 2 great bodies you've found, I've only seen maybe 2 around in years in that shape.

After seeing what you can do and all the problems you've sorted out- I did have to laugh when you said that using a 3rd gen chasis would've been too much work, jeezus dude you could probably do just about whatever you want with a rig. Seems like blending 2 rear quarters to stretch and fit the wheels or shortening mid-frame by 3" might've been easier and would give rear coils. That could open a can of worms though with wiggle room to get the v8 up front. I think I'm just biased for rear coils though.

I have an 87 body on a 99, I bought it converted. I love the old school body with the feel of a newer Yota. The guys that did the swap on mine approached the longer wheelbase problem by hacking the rear wheel wells with some weird tapered angle. My body is so bad... makes me wish so much that I had your skills and space and to find a clean donor body to start over with a body swap. You've made me reconsider a bondo hack job and at least trying to DIY some quarters. Thanks for the inspiration.

 

Thanks! I believe a person can do what they put their mind to. If they can't, they can change their mind, lol. I can't jump ten feet up in the air, but I can get a latter and fall from ten feet up. That kind of thing.

You have a point about the 2 inches in frame length, lol. I could have done it, I just wanted to keep the rear leafs for a stock look. The engine would have been fine as far as wiggle room. It is the gas tank that gets crammed into the transfer case, a problem that I do have. I will have to get the exhaust as high and tight as possible.

I would like to see your 87 on a 99 frame. What engine do you have? How were the body mounts done?

I did promise to my self that I would not do another build after this one..., but I am already thinking of doing something with the spare 88. I was messing with the idea of a 2x4 with the 4 cylinder 5 speed from a 2008 tacoma. There is a roll over at the local wreaking yard I got my current project.

Thank you so much for the comments. This whole forum thing is a sort of support group for me, LOL! Without it I would be left with bugging my family and friend who shake their heads when they see what I am doing.

 

Keep on keeping on, i enjoy reading all about your journey. You definitely have skills, and if you decide to do another build, i will follow that as well.

 

Okay, here is the skinny.
Door locks work with key fob.
Rear window rolls down with key fob.
both power windows work with key on.
Inside door lock and unlock switch does not work. (I tried)
The opposite polarity from first gen t4r switch and sequoia body ECU prevented a piggyback.

 

If I am able to learn of a way to wire the door lock switch into the sequoia body ecu, I will at a later date.
The interior door lock and unlock switch sends a ground to the door control relay. The door control relay then sends power through the door lock solenoid. Lock and unlock use the same ground. I thought I might be able to reverse the switch from grounded to powered to work with the sequoia system, but it just popped fuses. I was able to wire the second gen door control into the doors separate of the sequoia system. While it did work properly, I was not able to use the sequoia key fob to unlock the doors from outside.

As far as the first gen t4r goes, it was the passenger side window switch that was failing. Today I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. After I did that, both windows now roll up and down. Down is a lot more easy than up. I think I need to find new window channels.

 

You asked... now I'll muck up your nice build thread with pics of my POS.

This thing has sat for over 2 years, and I'm just now getting a chance to get to some of things I need/want to do to it. That's how I ended up on this forum!

Factory 3.4, I've never looked at a 3rd gen side by side, not sure if all the accessories are 3rd gen (booster/master, steering, etc). Air fliter box definitely looks plastic welded.


I think the radiator/fan is factory, I may have replaced it but can't remember.

Front mount, driver- looks like a factory weld. Yes, those are cracked hockey pucks. I'm waiting on some plastic rod I ordered to make new mounting blocks with. All the perches have different spaces to the body.


Mount behind front fender, driver- not sure about the plate visible in that hole. Not a factory weld on the perch.



Same mount, passenger- see VIN location for reference


Mount location near B-pillar, driver- no body mount here. I think maybe the 3rd gens have 8 mounts and the 1st gen have 10?



Rear fender mount, driver- more hockey pucks. Probably not factory location.


Same mount, passenger


Rear mount, driver- big'ol stack o'pucks. Not sure if it's stock location, the extra plate (that needs painted badly) makes it hard to tell. The added metal is from my bumper, I had a guy weld it so it tied in closer to the axle for more stable towing and boy did it make a difference.


Front end, ugly tube welded to the frame horns and a TJM bumper to cover it. Wish the square tube was something that blended better.


Inner fender trimmed for suspension perch.


Another view of bumper and side, I flopped it on this side.


Better view of rear wheel well trim.


Better view of rear wheel trimmed. Gas filler door added, poorly and rusted to hell. Like I said I need new quarters but it's a camping rig and I didn't want to get crazy with body work.


3rd gen steering wheel and cluster.


3rd gen shifter and center console, cup holders in the back style.


Seats, I have no idea what they are. Maybe Acura? They appear to go right in factory mounts by the lack of extra holes in the carpet, I haven't dug to investigate. They have the passenger release for the back access.


Hope it's not rude to put all these photos up. Seems relevant considering the uniqueness of both of our rigs- though mine is nothing as badass as what you're doing. Perhaps I should relocate all this into a separate thread of my own.