Peter's Build: JC Offroad rear bumper etc...

Received the below on Monday, shipped it all off to the painter on Thursday.




I really wanted my spare mounted where God intended, at the back of the truck. Guys, this bumper is SOLID. Weight is around $150 lbs including the spare tire swing-out carrier. It's at the paint shop getting painted in gravel-guard. Ordered it in bare metal, I don't trust powder-coat paint, that stuff doesn't stand a chance in our salty Canadian winters.
Pics as soon as it's installed...

 

Nice! I'll eventually be going down that same path, mainly for a solid solution for relocating the spare.

Living in Michigan, I too have powder coat trust issues, lol. I know there are some places out there who do phenomenal work that can hold up to just about anything, but they're going to be $$$$ and usually with really long turn around times.

I typically paint my own using 2k epoxy primer and 2k satin clear, holds up fairly well, and can be quickly touched up with rustoleum satin black if/as needed down the road. I've used Chip Guard, which I'm guessing is probably similar to Gravel Guard, for things like sliders and skids.

 

Bring on the pics

 

Will do. Also just ordered a new set of shoes for her, I can't stand the TRD pro wheels and skinny tires. Just hope that the tires don't provoke that damn steering wheel shimmy I'm accustomed to on the FJ..

 

We should compare results sometime in the future, peter2772000. I have the same bumper on my 2018 ORP. I just put it on about 2 weeks ago. I ordered mine with powder coat, because when I bought my front aluminum blitz bumper, I picked it up in Michigan from the factory. That was in early February before everything closed down. They gave me a tour, and Victory has an excellent two stage powder coat process, and a modern oven etc, so I don’t know how you could produce that yourself with a paint. At least I knew I couldn’t paint it better than that, so when I ordered the Strike bumper, it’s only available in steel, so I stuck with their powder coat. I live in a snow belt just outside the GTA, and believe me we get a lot of salt, sand, ice, and snow on our roads. After two winters I’ll know how good it was.

 

I've heard that they've greatly improved their powder coat quality, and sounds like they're even doing it in house now. Very interested to hear feedback on how well it holds up. It used to be legit terrible... which isn't necessarily a dig against them, this was (is) very common across the industry. People want ready to install parts, but don't want to pay a ton more or wait a ton longer to get it. The result is that most powder coat is outsourced, and not exactly to the highest bidder.

Proper two part epoxy paints (and bedliners) cure into a hard plastic shell (not to be confused with single stage "epoxy" paint like VHT and what not, that isn't the same and will not hold up). When done properly with a good coat build up, it's very resilient, and also flexible and less prone to flake off over time. But the kicker is in the prep work... it's a ton of work to prep something properly. Which of course is the same situation for powder coat. Most of the time powder coat sucks, just because it's not prepped right, it's not applied properly, not cured properly, or they just plain used cheap materials or applied too thinly.

I've been painting my own parts for years now. Sure sometimes something needs a little touch up; but I've never had anything that succumbed to rust issues. (Unlike some things I've put on that came powder coated, that looked horrible after just one winter).

 

Well, I'm going by my experience with a powder-coated push-bar I bought in 1990 for my 89 S-15 Jimmy. The bar looked like shit after one winter but to be fair, I dunno how much better powder-coating is now, 30 years later.

My FJ (2007 salvage-title purchased repaired in 2010) came equipped with a push-bar and step-bars, all rusty. I had them sandblasted and Line-Xed. They all rusted out.....after 10 years and prolly because the sandblasters hadn't blasted the rust out completely. But still, they lasted more than the powder-coated push bar on my S-15.

 

Some powder coating processes are just a blast of powder coat and that’s it. I really liked the primer Victory used. Industrial coatings can be a very technical subject, and I’m no expert. But it’s definitely possible to increase performance over the old days, if a high quality product is used. Both commercial, and at home.

 

Hey peter2772000, here's something I did, which you might find interesting being from Montreal. When you remove the mudflaps and cut the OEM bumper cover, you'll notice that its fairly buttoned up under there. Its no big deal if you live down south, but up here snow, salt and ice, even mud and road sand will pack up in there so I made these covers. I used 1/16” aluminum checker plate because I had a couple of scrap pieces from another project, but anything will do. Light gauge galvanized sheet metal that you can easily trim with shears is fine as well. In the middle of this area is an OEM bracket you can use and then I drilled one more 3/16 hole for a second big sheet metal screw, so they wouldn't rattle. I used the OEM ones from the bumper cover removal. I have a big drain hole at the rear where the hi lift jack hole is in the bumper. These are designed to be easily removed and not to be sealed tight. I envision pressure washing in there a couple of times a year with the covers removed. I also show a photo of the mud flap after I trimmed it and reinstalled it. It still serves a basic function keeping mud out of that upper rear quarter panel area so I thought I'd retain it. I made a template out of cardboard to make the pieces. I had to cut a slot to allow for the exhaust hanger on the right hand side. It was pretty simple to do this, and should work well, although, I'll know better next winter, haha. Just an idea I had.

 

Nice idea, I'll have to bang that out after the bumper install.

Thanks, fellow Canuckistani

 

One more thing, I assume you’ll be installing back up lights in the holes provided. I had some help with deciding how to do this from some members on this forum. Just search <aux reverse lights question>. I generally avoid auxiliary lighting because where I travel in the north on gravel roads, they’re too vulnerable to rock damage. But the rear ones are ok, so I installed the 3” leds meant for the bumper. Quite a difference! They kind of make the OEM back up lights look like candles in comparison.

 

I was going to order them from Victory but then remembered someone telling me that when the aux. reverse lights are too bright, it makes the back-up screen go all white and blurry. Is that a problem for you?

 

Wow, I hadn’t heard that one, haha. I’m sure it’s possible, though, I’m no expert. Mine are perfect, nice and bright. I bought my 3” leds from MTC Canada. I didn’t want to pay duty, shipping and tax on tax on them. It was bad enough with the bumper. Although I had to modify the mounting bracket slightly to get a proper fit. But no big deal.

 

How much did they run you? I've sent them an email asking for price/availability.
You don't have a back up screen /camera?
BTW, calling you Oldtoyotaguy is weird, what's your name?

 

Haha, my name is Peter. I think they were like $50. Like I said, I’m not generally a big fan of auxiliary lighting or night driving, for that matter - especially on a trail! + those light bars are really expensive, and on Northern Canada’s gravel roads, they’ll be destroyed by stones. That might still happen with the back up lights, but there’s less risk, so I installed them. I kind of surprised myself, they work great and are an improvement, especially in urban areas. My OR is a premium and definitely has a screen and a backup camera.
As far as swing outs are concerned, I agree with you that they look cool and I hate the underbody spare. If I ever have to use it, I just know it will be in pouring rain on a muddy trail somewhere. My only concern is having to open the swing out every time I access (or even worse, when my wife accesses) the rear cargo area. So I’m still undecided on phase 2, which could be a swing out. Having said that, I’m not too worried about relocating the camera, or wiring a licence plate light but so far I haven’t had to deal with that.

 

Well, all my talk about powder coat and painting things myself; and I just went and ordered a Victory front bumper yesterday, and opted to have them powder coat it. So I guess I will soon find out the hard way how well it holds up, lol.

 

So "Peter", to be clear, your camera screen looks fine when you're backing up with the aux lights on, right?

I just received a set of beautiful recovery point brackets from Apex. C/w a nice red powder coat....that flaked easily after being bumped around during shipping. I'm gravel-guarding the damns things just to be on the safe side. Let us know how your front bumper coating looks

 

The back up camera screen is tricky about how it is affected by reflected light. Any reflected light can produce a glare, and the bright aux lights can produce glare depending on nearby surfaces and other ambient light sources. So if you depend on your backup camera to produce consistent images at night, I’d stick with the dimmer stock backup lights.
I backup using mirrors and looking out the rear window and the aux lights are a big improvement. I only use the backup camera when I’m close to an object within the warning lines.

 

Well then, I won't bother with the aux. lights. They only get used at night, which is really the only time I look at the screen, if I do at all.


For the back-up cameras, I'm the same as you. I use the camera very rarely. Matter of fact, I was teaching my youngest stepdaughter to drive and I insisted she use the side & rear-view mirrors when backing up in a parking lot which contained only one lamp-post. Wanna guess what she hit....? My brand-new 4Runner has an appointment with the body shop after I have the bumper installed.

Karma's a bitch...

 

Yeah, I kind of agree with you. I don’t regret putting them in, they’re bright, but it’s a bit a “meh”. When I put the Blitz bumper on I installed Victory’s filler plate in the front because an expensive light would be a waste where I drive. It would get broken by stones anyway and it would be hard to service. In fact, you’d have to remove the bumper. The same holds for the rear bumper. Truth be told, I don’t even like driving at night and prefer to have my feet up by the fire with a good book when it’s dark outside, or sharing a few songs with my guitar playing friends. Not trying to see where I’m going in the darkness.

 

At almost 60 myself, I know how you feel. Driving at night's ....exciting, to say the least.

My dad warned me. "Son, don't get old". I didn't listen LOL

 

Installed my Apex recovery points, next weekend is the bumper install and maybe the T9 radio

 

T9 is installed, no regrets to date other than the fact I'm definitely going to get the radio it's own SIM card. Hot-spotting to my cell is a PITA. Incredible bang for the buck, let's see if it holds up long-term.

Installed the Victory bumper/tire carrier this weekend after getting it gravel-guarded. The only unnerving part was cutting the bumper skirt. I was so worried I'd cut unevenly and it'd look like shit. But it turned out fine. My gripe is with the instructions. Do NOT cut the bumper skirt 5" below the seam. 5" isn't enough. I'm now left with a 3/4" - 1" gap between my bumper and the sides of the truck. I suggest cutting 5.5" instead to reduce the gap to an acceptable level. Myself, I'll be installing door-edge trim on the bottom edge of the bumper skirt in an effort to reduce the gap a bit.

Mags/tires are ordered and I should be getting four of five this week, with the 5th taking a couple weeks longer. Went with different rims than those I'd posted, but the tires are still Generals in 305/50R20. Rims have a nice -12mm offset so compared to the OE +4mm offset, they should ride pretty well flush with the fenders.

I know, useless without pics. But I want to present the truck when it's completely finished. I figure another 2 weeks or so. Thx for reading...

 

Hey peter2772000, that gap amount is partly subjective, and partly functional to allow for the body to flex independently from the frame. I’m trusting that Victory knows how much that needs to be. I think it looks right, personally. One good thing about the cuts, they’re straight lines, so if you take your time you can’t screw them up easily. Glad it all went well. Easier than the front one, anyway.

 

I've gotten used to the gap, but will prolly add door edge trim just the same.

Finally got my tires in, 100 yrs later.....I love the look. She rides better than I expected and in my biased opinion, looks freakin' hot.

 

She goes into the body shop Monday to fix my sweet, darling stepdaughters' body mod to my tailgate

 

Hey good job, peter2772000! Did you relocate the camera as well? Probably they’ll replace that bumper cover, so if you want a closer gap, now is the time to get it. Also, I can’t see if your shackles have a lock on them, but if that’s ever a problem, American Gear have locking shackles that have a 20t wll. The mud flaps serve an important function, at least for Canadian driving conditions, so it’s cool you got them back on. I left mine off, and fabbed up a 1/16” aluminum checker plate cover for the under bumper area behind the rear wheels. It works pretty well, so far.

 

Yeah, I remember your checker-plate and will be copying your set-up to be sure!
No, the shackles aren't locked, is that a thing now, stealing shackles? My gawd. LOL

 

I live in a small town, which has a pretty low crime rate, but I remember the first time I parked the 4 Runner at Pearson Airport for a week, someone stole the Toyota receiver cover. So, yeah, expensive parts like shackles, that are easily removed are vulnerable. I remember years ago, a colleague of mine who worked for National Parks got a secondment to Nairobi as part of a professional development exchange. He had a 2 year assignment, so he bought a Suburu with the tropical package and arranged to have it delivered to Africa. When he went down to customs to pick it up, every single bolt on part was gone. W/wipers, bumpers, skid plates, tail light lenses, lights, chrome trim, everything. Eventually he gave up and only replaced essential bits and pieces. Haha, thankfully not that bad here, but getting there.

 

LOL, that's a story...

I tightened the bolts up pretty tight. Unless someone has tools, the shackles aren't coming off.
Then again, my neighbor at work had his catalytic converter stolen from his cube-van. Total damage was $8k, paid out by his insurance