Sound deadening 2018 Limited

I have been spending a ton of time sound deadening my 4runner. So far I have installed over 100 square feet so far.

 

Let us know cost+install+time=improvement over stock. Many have said its not worth it. Others say just do the doors and minivan door. Doing the roof? What products are you using?

 

I am using Noico 80 mil mat. I have installed 120 square feet so far, all the way up to the front seats. This includes all doors which I covered the door skin completely plus another layer over the metal under the door panel trim. Also rear hatch same as doors. I will be doing the headliner in 50 mil here in the next couple weeks. I will be covering the interior of all trim panels with foam sheets to further reduce any vibrations. I am hoping to cut a couple Db's out of the road noise.
I initially installed some focal 6x9 in the front doors plus I added Morel tempo ultra integra 5 1/4" speakers in the back door and rear hatch.
If I can find the stock DB level of noise in the cabin I will gladly share just how quite it is now.
I personally think all the sound deadening in the doors made a huge difference with sound quality even with the stock JBL amp. That being said I did install the Alpine ILX-F309 as well which really made a huge difference in sound qaulity and control.
I will be adding a fully actice 10 channel setup with a 3-way front stage running 750 watts just for the front stage. Total I will have just over 2,000 watts RMS when All the speakers and subs are installed. I will leave the rear door speakers for rear fill but I will be taking out the Morel's out of the tailgate and will sell them.
Also I am measuring and will design and fabricate a custom sub box where my stock sub enclosure and amp is now.
My amp rack is a work in progress that I could not even begin to design until all the sound deadening was done.

 

how do you like the morels? Been contemplating between assembling my own set of speakers or buying the oem audio upgrade.

 

Waiting on the brown van man to deliver my audio gear and waiting... And waiting... ...

 

I like Morel speakers, I have Morel home speakers as well. They sound good to my ear. I think if you were to piece together your own speakers you could get more bang for your buck. In my opinion if you are using your OEM headunit then OEM audio plus would be one of the easiest plug and play ways to go. I initially swapped my front door speakers for the Focal IS 690TOY. I punctured of of the tweeters on install so ended up using the OEM JBL dash speakers. The sound was a big improvement. That being said I do have an aftermarket headunit.
Once again in my opinion It all depends on what your end goal is.

 

I’ve had horrible experiences with aftermarket installs with audio, my last vehicle that I had work done on ended up catching on fire and costing about 12k to repair the damage. I didn’t do the install. I’m leaning towards plug and play as having anyone splice scares me.

 

i agree. I had my Apline ILX-F309 ($1400) headunit installed by a Car toys and I was extremely unhappy with their work. They only put 2 of the mounting bolts back in. That being said the new headunit though pricey was the best option for my plan. The Alpine ILX-f309 is very capable of running a multi speaker fully active setup. Lets just say I have spent a year researching and learning about car audio so I can install my self. I am a pro journeyman mechanic But I am certainly not A pro audio installer.
There are several companies that make plug and play amps for the gen 5 4runner.
I was going to go with one of these prior to the new head unit
Kenwood Excelon P-Xr600-6dsp.
this as far as I have researched is a plug and play amp setup that could power 2 way front channel and your rear doors.
I guess it all depends on your comfort level with wiring.
I will be running new 14 gauge speaker wire through my door molex connectors in the next couple weeks. I will be taking pictures and or a video and posting it on here to show others that it is not only is something a person can do yourself and not as hard as it seems I found a thread where a guy had found the correct toyota terminal pins for this. I refuse to drill through my door molex connectors and void my warranty. AS I will be putting 125 watts RMS to all of my front stage I need to run new speaker wire, in my opinion. I am a bit apprehensive of sharing all this info on here because people on these forums are just plain mean and nasty. That being said if I can help anyone sift through the mountains of info and different options for the gen 5 4runner then I am glad to help.

I personally went with an Audio control DM-810 DSP that will be connected to 3 other amps. I will be utilizing all 10 channels of the DSP output for my system. In the end I will be running near 2,000 watts of RMS power.
I also will be providing exact measurements for the GEN 5 4runner big 3 upgrade wiring as I cant find the info anywhere.
Will I need a bigger alternator? Probably but I will cross that bridge when I get there.
This involves another issue of finding a smaller serpentine belt due to the smaller pulley on the high output alternator.
Then again another possible solution is installing a smaller pulley on my stock alternator that way it will inherently produce more power at idle.
Well I have caught myself rambling again, enough for now.
Any more specific questions just hit me up.
Thanks for reading

 

As for your possible battery/ alternator issues.
I haven't built a full car audio system in years. However, I do remember using capacitors. Are capacitors still viable & available? They can hold some juice till your stock alternator gets caught up.
My $0.02 as a long standing amateur audiophile.
Ryan.

 

In my research I have found pro capacitor and anti capacitor view points, SHOCKING!
I am seriously considering installing a 10 farad digital capacitor just to make sure the sub gets the power it needs when it needs it. A bit overkill some would say but I will have 1,000 RMS to my subs.
I will be doing tests with a Digital Multi meter pre and post the "big 3" upgrade. Also as I think I mentioned before I will be running 1/0 OFC power wire straight from my battery all the way back to the power distribution block in the cargo area, if my plan actually works to mount the amps discreetly.
I do plan on taking my group 31 and putting that in the passenger firewall spot and getting a group 34 for my starting battery. That way all my audio and accessories can be ran off the group 31.

 

Sounds like a solid plan. You are clearly more knowledgeable than I here. 1,000 rms to what sub again? That is a serious subwoofer! With all the dynamat are you going to do DB runs or SQ competitions?
It sound like that is what you are after.
Yeah, some friends built a few DB vans & SUV'S in the past. I just didn't have the time to travel & compete.
I wish I could hear your truck after you are done!
Great job,
Ryan.

 

I might be crazy but I am planning on running an upgraded 8" sub in the stock location running 400 watts RMS with crossovers set at 200 hz - 600 hz and then a
JL Audio 13TW5v@-4 running 600 watts crossover set at 20 hz - 200 -hz. I am trying to not take up to much cargo space though.
I cannot really find any good info on running 2 differnet sized subs but they way I figure it is that if Im running a fully active system then I dont really see why this would not work.
And yes I am planning on entering my rig in the daily driver SQ class at some point.
The amount of road noise bugs me in stock form so I decided to go completely nuts with sound deadening.
I will be analyzing my output with a RTA program separate of the DSP as well. So maybe I will make some you tube videos with some recording gear so I can have a before and after showcase sort of thing.
Cheers
JL Audio 13TW5v2-4