What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Thanks!! Now just debating on adding the Frontrunner table!

 

Check out the RCI aluminum skids. They look nothing like that. Very clean. But not sure if the price between the two is better with the raw Victory? I think I would be kinda bummed with that finish also @SlvrSlug but it is under the vehicle. Still for the price of this stuff you do expect it to be cleaner than that. Anyway can't wait to see it bolted up.

 

After thinking about it, you only really see the very front of it when it's on the vehicle. Maybe you could hit the front again to make it more uniform and then shoot the front with clear coat. That may do the trick.

 

Do it!! I love having mine, super convenient, perfect match for the UltraSwing!

 

Yep, this is what i decided to do, thanks man.

 

Ok, i know it’s only a freaking skid plate, but i have been sanding on this thing for a while now with 80 grit, i still can not get the grinder gouging out of it. I did not want to bash anyone, but this is bs. The worst area is the area you are going to see when installed. I also have a question, the nuts for the filter door are not welded to the plate, is there enough room to get your hand in there to hold the nuts when you take the door plate off?

 

How much did it cost you? Just curious if you got some type of discount or if they really ship them like that for full price. My steel one from victory 4x4 cost 285 shipped, and came powder coated. I figured the aluminum ones would be just as nice... powder coated or not... They should look nice. I fully understand being disappointed especially if you didn't know it would come looking like that.

And yes you can reach the nuts for the filter door... But it's not very convenient... The install video shows those clip on nuts, that would of been way more convenient. Not sure why they changed it.

I still need to order the filler plate from RCI.

 

$318.75 and yes i think it was Black Friday deal, but still.

 

I would not be happy with that fit & finish either. On another note, why didn't they recede the bolt heads? You drag those over a few rocks & you will not be able to get (what looks like an Allen wrench) into the bolt head.
If you look through all the pictures it appears they have a lot of variations.
Good luck John. Sorry it looks unfinished.

 

Yea I'd just paint it and be done with it. I wouldn't want to use it as is either. Or maybe sand blasting it would work. Keep the metal look but make it look more uniform...

 

I took it to a blasting shop this mourning, he said to clean it up (deep grinder marks) $125.00 and would powder coat it, about a week for the turn around.

 

Counter sunk! That is the word I was looking for. LMAO
I thought I liked the Victory front skid. Then I heard that you cannot add the filler plate & tie it into the factory bumper & now the bolts will get crushed...
Live & learn. No judgment upon others or their choices. I am just sad John is not happy.

 

Yep, that's a very poor presentation and representation of their product. Looks like crap which is unacceptable.

 

Do they make a version of the TRD one that has a hatch for the oil pan & filter? That is what I cannot find.
Thanks.

 

I agree that another $125 is a bit much on top of what he already spent.... But i think the TRD skid plate is ugly personally, the TRD underneath them and the silver/white plates just dont look right to me, especially the ones with red letters. I looked at every skid plate i could find online for the 4runner and thought the victory4x4 was the best looking...Mine came looking great in my opinion. But i got powder coated steel...

Everyone having a difference of opinion is a good thing. It gives us more options, and makes it so every vehicle isnt the same.

You can add the RCI filler plate, which is what i will be doing, but i think victory should let people know on the sales page that the factory plastic radiator skid will no longer be functional. ANd they should post pictures of the uncoated aluminum ones to show how bad they look, nobody should find that out after receiving it.





The main reason i wanted a skid plate is easier access to change the oil and filter. And this one has access panel and the hole for the drain plug. Plus my last name starts with a V, so the V logo works for me

 

Doesn't the RCI filler plate replace the factory plastic radiator skid? I thought that was the point of the filler plate.
Thanks for the help & patience.

 

Have you reached out to them? I know they are big on the "other site". The butterfly logo kept me from ordering in the past, just one more reason for me to avoid them. Thanks for your honest opinion.

 

Yes it does and the finish of the RCI skid is perfect. It can be bolted on as is without any additional finish work, as it should be.

 

The thing is, my SS check only allows me very little mods. it took me awhile to get this. So i will keep messing with it, if I can’t get it to a point i like, i will hang it on the garage wall and call it day.

 

No i have not contacted them, and will not. If it came out of there shop, then it’s on them. This is what they do for a living, quality control.

 

Yes, but the RCI filler plate can be used with the Victory front engine skid plate (according to RCI), and the factory plastic radiator skid can not be used with it. The plastic radiator skid bolts to the factory engine skid. The RCI bolts to the radiator support cross member and will slide up under the Victory skid plate.



And again, my victory 4x4 front engine skid came with perfect fit and finish, but i got it with powder coating. Shame the raw comes looking so rough. I would not be happy in his shoes either, but i am happy with mine.

 

I refuse to let them touch our 4runner! I don't even want them to do this fuel pump recall (not that I have a choice).
I did our first oil change @ 6K after a roadtrip. The worst part, 5qt of 0-w-20 $37.99 individual quart is $9.99 & the 4runner takes 6.6 quarts with filter change.
I know it can go.... lol

 

6.6 X 3 = 19.8

Buy 4 of the 5 quart jugs and be set for 3 changes. Save money this way in the long run.


I also refuse to ever let them touch mine again as well except for recalls. Oil changes I'll do. Most repairs I'll do if the parts are not too expensive.

 

I did think about that. Would it be wise of me to buy possibly 3 yrs of oil & store it? One jug would remain sealed but one open for about a year.
I plan on doing yearly oil changes but we only drive about 7k a year. Vacations may hopefully make that differ. Our Infiniti G35XS was made for a completely different reason! Lol Our diesels both have plows (mounts lower clearance drastically & aren't nearly as nice as our T4R!
Edit due to major error...

 

I’d just prime and rattle can it since it’s gonna get fucked up anyways

 

As long as you keep a lid on it so no sediments or dust gets in it, the oil will be fine for a year, even longer. BUT....You may save 20-30 bucks, and if you dont drive but 7K miles a year, you probably wont even notice the savings stretched out over that 3 year period of time... So consider that and the fact that its a bit harder to get 1.6 quarts out of a 5 quart jug than it would be with 2 separate 1 quart jugs.... So its your call really.

 

You may be able to get some money back from them John and it may be worth the hassle to call them about this. That is ridiculous and sorry this happened. With the way this company markets on here you would expect a lot better QC.

 

Thanks Wally, i sent off an email this morning with some of the pics. i posted. You know, i am not looking for anything, i just wish i could have gotten a decent product. I am not going to pack it up and send it back.

 

I worked as a fabricator for about 10 years. I would find the highest grit flat flap disc you can find (harbor freight sells them) keep the grinder perfectly flat and go to town on the whole thing. Should be able to get a uniform finish. Whatever you use to sand it tho make sure it is brand new and hasn't been used on anything else. You will contaminate the aluminum and make a big pain in the ass. From the pictures that doesn't even look cleaned up enough to look good powder coated.

 

Got the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro fogs installed last month, and now I'm working on cutting up the grill and prototyping brackets for my new "raptor lights"













Kidding aside, these are the new SS3 SAE Pro driving pods. When mounted and aimed correctly, they are street-legal to use as auxiliary high beam lamps. I wanted to mount them as high on grill as possible for the furthest lighting reach, but keep them tucked in as well. By all accounts, these things are light cannons in a peashooter package.

I'll wire a relay for them and tap into the high beam circuit. This way all of my road-legal lighting (headlights, high beams, fogs) functions off of the turn-signal stalk. Roof bar and ditch lights have their own switches for offroad use.