Need some help, engine is apart

So I bought this 4runner (267k miles) pretty cheap a few months ago, it had low compression on cylinder 2 and idled extremely rough, smoothed out around 60 mph. Drained only 1.6 gallons of coolant out, supposed to be 3?

I took both heads off to change headgaskets and get both heads resurfaced. I notice that cylinder 2 exhaust valves are BLACK, the rest are normal light tan in color.

The only thing I am noticing is the valve guides are slightly loose (can wiggle them back and forth a couple thousandths of an inch) and valves are slightly sticky compared to the others.

The intake port on cylinder 2 is the cleanest of them all.

The piston in cylinder 2 is rusty looking with white flakes on it, the rest are a normal blackish color and clean.

Any pointers on what to do now? New valves/seals on cylinder 2, resurface and head gaskets and put back together?

Any idea what is wrong? Possible valves sticking causing this?

 

anyone? sorry if this isn’t the right place to ask, i’m not really sure

 

Sounds like a good plan....what headgaskets are you going to use?

 

not really sure, what kind should i use? all i know is the multilayer ones are supposed to be used?

 

When in doubt OEM.

 

not sure what kind everyone uses

 

When in doubt, research! Some OEM gaskets were complete junk and the problem to begin with. I’d never put OEM gaskets back on my 6.0.

 

So you have a magic 3rd Gen 6.0L?

 

That’s one of my vehicles that I use for my business. My DD is a 2019 Chevy 2500HD

 

This appears to be a 3VZE? If yes get the OEM head gaskets. They are a refreshed design from the original that had the issues. It is still a design flaw with how close the cooling jacket is to the cylinder on the corner of cyl 1 & 6 but, the new design addresses this as best as it can be.

 

jojo

wouldn't looking for a used engine at a junk yard be more cost efficient - especially if it were wrecked in the rear end.

I have 2005 SR5 140,000 miles 2005 runs like new.
never had a check engine light

I drive on the street.. no crazy offroader
which will destroy anything but armor tank.

There are 4runners out there with over 500,000 miles. I find that amazing.

The only brand name car I ever owned that went beyond 100,000 miles was my 4runner, and it still runs great.

 

it’s a 5VZFE

well i’m trying to avoid spending that much i just need it running cheaply, i am hopeful that it needs both heads resurfaced and new valves in that cylinder but i’m looking for info as to why the 1 cylinder looks differently, maybe some ideas as to what happened and if i’m on the right track to fixing it, not sure!

 

So confused on wtf you are talking about.

Also if I'm not mistaken the recall was up to 97' and was fixed.

Don't know what year OP has.

 

Ohh ok 5vze. I’d still go OEM.

 

do you think i’m right on my diagnosis? i was hoping to see a very clear reason for the loss of compression but i’m still unsure

 

Was it blowing “blue” smoke out the tailpipe? Fel-Pro make good head gaskets. Have the machine shop look at it. They will know...

 

Not sure. I’m no engine expert. Sorry

 

nope it wasn’t, coolant level is about half low, idle extremely rough, and the issues in the pictures above.

 

Jojo353

I completely built my 5vz earlier this summer. I order the gasket set from LCE. I also specified an MLS headgasket set.
Long story short. I have the original headgaskets. If you want them, they are yours for the shipping.
Tim

 

do you have a link to the gasket set you got? im in the market to redo mine. Thanks!

 

Couldn't find the link....
If you go to the LCE Engineering site they have all kinds of good stuff. I order the rebuilt set with hypereutectic pistons ( and had them coated). These are the gaskets that came in the kit. I ordered the MLS gaskets from them seperately.

 

Still never pulled the trigger on any repair yet, I am wondering if possible rings bad on that cylinder? No idea what route to take lol

 

Drop the pan, pickup, and windage tray.....
Remove the bolt bolts and push the pistons out one at a time. PUT THE ROD CAP BACK ON THE RESPECTIVE ROD. Keep track of which came out of which hole.
Deglaze the bores (gently) with a ball hone.
Remove the rings and clean up the lands.
Buff off the top of the pistons.
Order a set of gapless piston rings. Order a set of rod bolts.
Do ( or have done a valve job).
Reassemble.
Use straight 30 wt non detergent oil (NOT SYNTHETIC) till the rings seat ( and it stops using it) ( usually less than 200 miles).
Bob is your uncle.

 

There's a UTube out there with a Toyota truck (Tundra) with 800,000 miles (a V8) on it, and the tranny (original) with 700,000.

 

And......