**Brand New Morimoto XB Evo Headlights are here!

I wish they had a giveaway haha

 

Perhaps there's some misunderstanding with these new Evo lights.

The Evo lights are complete plug and play if you don't use the heater assembly. The heater assembly needs the additional fuse because it doesn't exist on the OEM lights. It's not for the DRLs. Kind of hard to plug and play something that didn't exist on the OEMs. If it's a big deal to you, don't use it.

The cutoff is comforting for me on all roads because instead of having weak light in the high areas it's bright. You'll never want crappy lights again after using these.

I have no body areas exposed on my 2018. I have no idea what people are talking about. Perhaps that's a body issue - my lights fit perfectly and everything is snug. There is no gap.

The DRLs are not halogen. No cheaping out on these. Totally worth $1,600.

Get the superchargers and aim the lights properly.

 

Def a top 3 mod for pre-2022 OEM LED 4Runners. I put a switch to turn the DRL's on and off.

 

Can you explain the DRL switch? We have the XB's on our 2016 and the Evos on our 2020 and the factory DRL switch turns them on and off.

 

On the XB Evos the factory DRL switch doesn't do anything so the DRLs are always on

 

What year is yours and what slot is your fuse tap plugged into? I can turn mine on and off with the factory switch.

 

I dont remember which fuse I used and will take a look tomorrow. It's most likely what the instructions said but the factory DRL switch definitely didn't do anything when I tried it.
Do you happen to remember which slot you used?
Even the lightwerkz guys confirmed that on the new Evos the DRLs are always on when the car is turned on...

 

On the 2020 it's this one.....

 

Thanks for the pic. I am pretty sure that's the slot I used initially because that is also the slot the install instructions mention, but I guess it is possible that I used a different slot since that's what you are using and the OEM DRL switch works. Now I have the tap connected to the internal fuse box. It is what it is at this point.

 

Mostly body issues it seems... Even some OEM lights don't fit perfectly. If you notice a gap around the fender after installing these headlights, it was most likely there all along even with the original factory headlights. I experienced this with my past set.

 

Do you know what fuse it is for 2023 trd pro

 

It should be the same one. @yoshi i may be able to confirm.

 

2020 and 2023 fuse block is same, 2019 is the year model received fuse block update, so 2019~2023 share same fuse block.
Information is provided in its install guide

 

My 19 has the left box. I did have my entire harness replaced due to rodent damage, so I’m not sure if they swapped in the older box or what exactly they changed and I don’t remember what it looks like before.

 

Update happen Aug 2019 maybe depend on production date of your model. Manufacturing date should be on FMVSS sticker If marketed as 2019 year model, likely production date is before Aug 2019

 

Pretty happy with these so far. The turn signals are pretty bright, cutoff is cleaner, wiring harness is cleaner into one master plug and they look pretty good. I will say I like the look of the Alphas more but the light cutoff was horrible.

I still have to aim them properly but I do see the hanging boobies in the beam. I'll take this over random blues and purples being projected everywhere.

 

Hanging boobies = dip style cutoff?

 

Yeah. They look like hanging boobies to me.

 

Show em or it didn’t happen!

 

They look like my moobs.

 

Some anatomy may look not familiar but Dip style cutoff offer far greater 250m R left curve visibility range.
I made support dosc it's PowerPoint
https://docs.google.com/presentatio...ouid=106785414004260995300&rtpof=true&sd=true
GIF animation in page 3 describe all about benefit of this advanced style cutoff.



For those who need PDF, please follow below link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mlir4GIcSf36FLcam_zQ_L2MVSo4-XOX/view?usp=sharing

Full size viewing in large screen recommended

It's to assure wet road surface bounce related glare control point to be within compliance. It also aid vehicle pitch shift buffer range.
Valley bottom of the dip area is regulation point. Must be between 1800Cd to 12000Cd the most per FMVSS LB2V low beam regulation table.
Since there is upper limit at 12000Cd limit, if right outside of that point intensity become higher, dip appearance will be more pronounced with higher contrast. But this is really because, "high intensity lamp need careful regulation"

OE LED projector ( by Koito ) does this regulation in very acute selective punched out box shading. There are many way to achieve this, but high intensity optics tend to use this dip style cutoff to improve IIHS performance score.
Amount of left curve visibility range is no joke.
With classic step down cutoff, left stepped down cutoff only reaches 43m of distance on your left curve, but dip style allows to stretch that visibility to 73m
This is equal to about full additional 1 second of reaction visibility distance. (50mph)

It looks like hanging boobies or whatever dip, look like missing, but reality is, because you have additional illumination left to critically regulated zone, selectively shaded shape appeared as dip shape.
it could be done to just chop off everything on the left like outdated classic step down cutoff, but that shave off ability to see in curve miserably.

Consider it's new standards, just not accustomed to many for now. I still get comments like " terrible cutoff, defect, ugly,,,etc" but no reason to lower level to outdated standard, I wanted to give driver full potency of latest standard, which never had offered in aftermarket.
OE had been doing, but not many yet understand full benefit of it.

Hope this explain help understand and enjoy more with confident. It's really deeply designed optics.

 

August 2019 was when 2020 MY started production.

 

So just ordered the lights and was looking at all the installation videos on YouTube. They all say you have to run the DRL / Heater harness to the fusebox. I thought that was only if you wanted the heater function and the DRL’s were all plug and play? So if I want the DRL’s to function I have to run the harness as well?

 

Yes you have to run the fusetap for the DRL's.

 

Does everyone like these so far?

 

I like them much more than the Alpharex I had.

 

Looking for a little help or info. Lights were installed but the DRL’s are on all the time, the OEM on / off isn’t working. Is that the way they run or did they get connect to the wrong fuse?

 

DRL is directly powered by the fuse selected, the switch does not do any ON/OFF to the DRL function. DRL is intended to remain ON as long as the vehicle is ON or when the position light/main lamp ON, which dims DRL to position lamp intensity.
The reason for this configuration is because of the welcome sequence. If the user turns DRL On Off while driving, every time turn DRL is turned back on, it will trigger the welcome sequence that contains high beam ON in its sequence.
High beams shall not flash onto oncoming traffic.
Also, simply DRL is a safety feature desired to be ON at any time during the day drive situation.

It is how intended Not to malfunction. Stock DRL switch control is bypassed out due to above reason.