Tires!!!

This has probably been answered several times on here but TBH, you guys start throwing out tires numbers and you might as well be speaking Japtalian. Easier for me to just ask outright if a 33-12.5-17 would fit on a '24 ORP without a lift or rubbing. Thanks guys!

Edit: Not sure if this matters but I have the 17" black TRD rims.

 

No.

Lift doesn't clear tires with IFS. You'll need a good alignment, and you'll definitely have to trim some plastic. You might need a Body mount chop.

 

I appreciate that, I'm for sure not doing all of that. Any recommendations on what I can fit without any modifications? Thanks again.

 

A 33x12.5r17? You'll likely rub quite a bit and need to do some cutting.
A lift won't help with the front. Cutting is a requirement for large tires.

Sorry. A lot of us are nerds here and got into the weeds on your last thread. This might help your understanding though.



https://trail4runner.com/2018/01/25/bigger-tires-4runner-cutting-trimming/

Or the video version if you prefer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAYGdcKSA3o

 

Appreciate your time and help. Do I have any options that you know of or am I stuck just getting a more aggressive tire on stock size?

 

Not at all. Many people fit skinny 33" tires with no/ very minimal cutting. Research 255/80/17 tires. (33x10)
If you'd like to keep the width a 275/70/17 is a good option. (32x11)
The most common size is 285/70/17 (33x11) which would require minimal trimming using the wheels you mentioned.

I'd honestly recommend reading through that t4r article I posted and figure out what kind of trimming you're okay with. Then select tires based on your goals with the truck.

It's worth noting that some plastic trimming is even done at the Toyota port on some models. The trimming required for these sizes is pretty minimal if you're using the stock TRD wheels.

 

https://www.4runners.com/threads/255-80r17-tire-size.7226/

 

I will do so with the article. Thanks again for the detailed response. I'm new to off-roading so I guess I just erroneously expected it to be easier. lol

 

No worries. If your goal is to have a taller tire without cutting up the truck I'd recommend that 255/80/17 (33x10)

Many benefits to a skinny tire as well.
-They are lighter and you still get the advantages of a tall tire
-Less rolling resistance due to a smaller contact patch
-Easier to clear everything without chopping up your 4Runner
-Still offer great sidewall deformation when aired down.

 

For my buddy's SR5 with stock SR5 wheels a 3in front 2in rear ReadyLift spacer lift almost cleared 285/70R17 tires. Only had minor rub on front fender liner and after some offroad trips its cleared.
(My SR5 had same lift but didn't try bigger tires)

My TRD ORP with stock ORP wheels a 2.5in front and 2in rear lift needed cutting bottom of the front bumper and push the fender liner forward to clear 285/70R17 tires. I still had mud flaps.

My Limited with ORP wheels a 2.5in front and 1.5in rear lift only needed to push the front fender liner forward. Limited bumper doesn't come towards the tire. So didn't have to cut the bumper.

My TRD Pro with stock TRD wheels could not fit 285/70R17 even after cutting the bumper, push the fenderliner forward, heat and push the mud flap back. Added a 1/2 in additional lift with a spacer, so total 1.5in lift than stock SR5/TRD ORP. It almost cleared the 285/70R17 tires except if front tire get lot of weight at a particular angle that rubs ever so slightly. So I'm thinking if I do about 2in lift front (and 1in rear to match) it will clear 285/70R17 tires since I have trimmed plastic already. I don't want full 3in lift as I would like to keep trouble free UCAs. And the TRD Pro rack will not clear my garage. (My TRD ORP cleared the garage when I had 3in F, 2in R lift later.)

285/70R17 tires are generally 11.22in wide. So not 12.5in wide. The SL and Load C tires I used are ranging from 32.76 - 32.8in tall. If you want 33in or more you are looking at Load E options. I'm not sure any Load D options are 33in tall.

If you look at 255/80r17 tires they range from 32.8in to 33.3in. Sadly they are all Load E tires. If comfort is a big factor you might have challenges. The looks from front might be interesting as they are just 10in wide.

Edit -
None of the 255/80r17 were lighter. My 285/70R17SL Toyo were 47lbs if I'm not mistaken and KO2 Load C BSW were 50lbs. In 255/80r17 world Hankooks were the only ones at 50lbs. Others were heavy pigs. They are all Load E, so can't complain that they are heavy tires.

Since I'm living in Colorado I need 3PMSF winter rated A/T tires, so 285/70R17 world give me better options selecting tires.

 

Yeah, I guess I really need to nail-down exactly what it is that I am looking for. Its my own ignorance where I just thought there was up to a certain size tire I could switch to without any additional lift or cutting. Just kind of a "plug and play" situation but I see now that there's much more to it. I guess really i was just trying to add a bit of height and just have an overall more aggressive tire with better grip, etc.
I appreciate your time and response.

 

There are so many tire choices. It's hard for me to recommend a set as I only have experience with three brands. All of them had pros and cons.
The search function doesn't work great on this site. For article searching I'll use google. site:4runners.com/ best tire

I hate to say you'll have to do more research but that's honestly the best advice I can give you.
Just compare weight, reviews and design on the tires in this size. Most top tier brands will provide a very good tire that are competitive with all others. As long as you buy from a quality manufacturer you can't really go wrong. Plus Discount Tire gives you 30 days to test drive and decide if you want to go with a different option.

https://www.discounttire.com/fitmen...ry:allTerrainTires&sort=bestSeller-asc&page=0

 

255/80/17

 

Kai's video is one of the best I've seen regarding the relationships and effects of each IFS component. It's one of the reasons why I ended up with a very modest (+1.4") lift on the front of my rig and was able to get by without upgrading the factory UCAs. If Mickey Thompson ever offers up a 255/80 R17 (they do offer a 255/85 R17 but that tire is like +35"...for sure I'd need to do some metal work.)

 

I don't mean to thread jack here, but I was considering that tire too. If I wanted to keep the stock wheels I could have probably skipped the 33s and 34s and jumped right to flaco 35s

 

@Sean M. I'm not a lawyer, mechanic, or financial advisor. Hell, its not even my chart. But its all been asked.

 

The trimming that Toyota does at the port is only for the change to the PRO rims. The tires on the TRD Pro are still good ol’ 265/70r17.

 

I believe they do that trimming to all 4Runners with the TRD wheels.

My off road premium was trimmed

 

That’s what I meant to say. The trimming is just to accommodate the change in rims, and not a larger tire size. My implication is that changing rims and increasing tire size will require more trimming than Toyota does at the port for the Pro rims.

 

Agreed. But OP is on TRD wheels so I think he could get away with 255/80r17 without trimming further?
275/70/17 might require pushing the fender liners forward.
285/70/17 might require light trimming, pushing the fender liners forward and possibly using a heat gun to clearance the mud flaps.

When I had 285/70/17 on those TRD wheels that's all I needed. But alignment has a lot to do with that, and every rig is a bit different.

Personally I'm team "Go big and cut everything that gets in the way”
Not that anyone anyone asked

 

Thanks for all of the input guys. To clarify, my ORP came with stock rims and I bought the TRD rims online. They are not on the truck yet and no trimming has been done. Im real butthurt to hear about having to do some trimming just to use them at all.

 

Don't be. The piece of the bumper that has to be trimmed is very low and basically not visible to anyone else.
Pushing the fender liners forward requires undoing three bolts, literally pushing the fenders forward and refastening.
If needed, you can ditch the mud flaps or just use a heat gun and push them back to give you a little more clearance.

Overall these are tiny little tweaks that will allow you to run a 32" or skinny 33" on those wheels without issue.
There are plenty of video tutorials this. As the saying goes, don't sweat the small stuff.

 

I always liked "don't sweat the petty things; pet the sweaty things."

 

Just letting you know;
- You factory ORP wheels are wider than TRD Pro wheels. So ORP wheels are approved to run bigger 285/70R17 or 285/75R17 tires.
- Factory ORP wheels have some level of valve stem protection. (You can see for yourself)
- Factory ORP wheels come from Japan and TRD Pro wheels are USA fitted wheel (Pro wheels and a/t tires fitted in USA for Pros)

To me ORP -> TRD Pro wheel is a downgrade.

 

But, they're sooo pretty!

JK! Agreed.

 

I realized that may be the case when the ORP rims are at least twice as expensive everywhere I looked. The only issue is that I have already scratched the ever-loving shit outta my ORP rims on some stupid obstacle at an off-road park. So the plan was to keep the ORP rims for off-roading since I made them ugly already and keep the new black TRD rims on it under normal conditions. I had no idea that they couldn't just be swapped out.

 

I suppose it isn't that big of a deal, I'm just usually better about catching things like that during my research before purchasing so i guess I'm just a bit disappointed as one of my goals was to avoid any alterations like that.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Do you have stock size ATs on your rims now? If so, then I'd stick with those, and get some sliders as your first real upgrade.

Even going with 33s, you only gain 1/2" of clearance over stock, so you're still going to beat stuff up. And banging up the rocker sections will hurt a lot more than scuffed rims.

For starting off off-road, this is the generally advised order of importance:
- tires (all-terrain, mud terrain, whatever. If you're planning to swap wheels for off-roading, may as well go aggressive, in my opinion)
- sliders
- skid plates (engine, transmission, transfer case)

Then replace or modify as needed as you hit hard limits.

 

I have the stock Dunlop AT tires that came on the ORP rims. For only 1/2" extra clearance, I will seriously consider just getting a more aggressive tire in stock size.

Would a slider be any different than the rails I had installed on it?

Thankfully the ORP came with skid plates for the above (not sure about transfer case) but I also want to add a guard for my catalytic converter because I live in Florida lol