9800 miles & Humming noise

Noticed this a few weeks ago - when I am coming to a stop, the rig hums, maybe whines is a better explanation - it is coming out of the front driver side I think. I also think it gets worse when I turn left. I have steering wheel shake around 40-60mph that I cannot resolve with tire balancing (balanced at Discount Tire 3x). I've read that Toyota replaced front differentials on some 4Runners? What am I looking at here? I want to be prepared if I have to bring it to the ol' Toyo yoyo shop (dealer).

 

See if the sound goes away in 4wd.

 

If it does, is this the needle bearing issue I always read about.

I am almost positive that I noted in 4HI the steering vibration goes away - it only shakes in 2HI.

Would go check it right now and report back, but the 4Runner is 200 miles away in my pole barn. Will be at the truck tomorrow though....

 

needle bearings in the carrier. Egs swap.

 

Because it doesn't know the words.
BA-DUM-DUM!

 

In all seriousness, it's sounding like the needle bearing. Install the EGS bushing and be done with it. It seems a bit premature with only 9800 miles. Still have any warranty left?

 

I have lotsa warranty. I am going to go grab it this weekend from the cabin and bring it back home, to the dealer it goes. Argh.

 

That sucks having to deal with them. Hopefully all goes well for you. Please update on their diagnosis.

 

Pulled from another thread. There is a TSB '21 to '24 models. I've read from a couple people that they replace a damper. Not totally sure though.
T-SB-0075-23

 

Anybody got pix of what this damper is? My 2023 has been doing it since about 2,000 miles. Figured i would do the ECGS bushing eventually but its interesting to see Toyota might be trying to fix it. I honestly HATE having a dealer do any work to my vehicle so i would honestly rather do the ECGS bushing before i let the vehicle go to the dealer. I already know the dealer wont give me the parts and let me install whatever it is myself.

 

It’s the needle. When you order from East Coast Gear Supply, buy the gasket too. If you plan to do the swap yourself, head over TW to see if you can borrow someone’s removal & installation tools. When my taco did this I replaced a shit ton of parts & it went away. I did all this when my lift was also installed. Drives like a dream now.

New wheels & tires. Caliper rebuild, new rotors & pads. ECGS needle replacement. Diff drop, carrier drop & 2” toytec/billy lift with an AAL & newish OEM leafs. New u bolts - the whole 9

 

Yeah 4sho, the ECGS isostatic bushing is without a doubt the way to fix the problem but i wouldnt be opposed to eyeballing this "damper" or whatever Toyota is doing if i could get my hands on it.

 

Interesting - which dealer are you thinking of taking it to in S.E. MI? I bought my ORP around the same time as you, and it sits in the garage all-winter to avoid all the salt they dump on the roads around me. Fortunately I have not experienced the vibration or noise you describe, but I am curious what happens at the dealership vehicle under warranty.

 

Yeah I brought mine up to my property up north and it's staying in my pole barn this winter. Did you get yours rustproofed? I went to a place in Port Huron and had it Fluid Filmed right after I bought it.

Probably bring it to Matick Toyota on M-59. They've always been good to me with my Toyotas, although this would be the ONLY Toyota in 13 years of ownership that will ever have needed anything at all from the dealer besides maintenance!

 

Did you buy the 4runner from Matick? I may rust proof it myself - Woolwax or Fluid film. What did you pay to have it done in Port Huron, and do they re-apply every year for free?

 

I did not... I purchased it from a Toyota Dealer that is 1 1/2 hours away. At the time, they had the 23 ORP with the options I wanted that I couldn't find anywhere else. I use Matick for everything else since they are so close.

I use FF for rustproof - Don't quote me but I believe it's $350 initial treatment and $200 for your annual re-coat, but I can't remember exact numbers right now. I've only had it done once. They do a really good job and go above the spare tire, skid plates, etc etc. He doesn't miss an inch.

 

Update:
Dropped it off at the dealer, and asked if a technician could drive with me to hear it and verify it’s actually not normal. He recognized the sound right away and said it is definitely not normal. Shooting from the hip, he said differential
Or transfer case but will know by this afternoon (they aren’t busy today at all).

Just a hair over 10k miles, bought new, no mods. Will post back when they tell me what failed.

 

I had posted about the damper in another thread.


And here's the T-SB that references it.

 

The called and said to come get the ‘Runner… ordering a damper per the TSB and it’s about 1 week before the part arrives.

We’ll see if it fixes it I guess?

 

Mine just got diagnosed today that I need the new diff as described in TSB 0075-23. So glad that the cold made the noise worse. Took it in and they called today confirming. The diff was 4,800. Thankfully it is covered under the powertrain warranty

 

I have seen that TSB but the picture they are using to depict the holes, the diff, and / or the damper is subpar. Its not showing anything really, not sure what their goal was in the depiction in the 3 pictures.

 

After reading and thinking about this a little, is the problem really the needle bearing/front diffy and they are just adding the damper to absorb the noise and vibration so they don't have to replace the diff? I see some owners with 23/24's are getting their front diff's replaced and some are getting the dampers (like me). What gives....

 

The needle bearing is essentially the problem, it has too much slack, allowing the inner axle cup to wobble around at a specific speed. CV joints have a tendency at a specific speed to "wobble" or have run-out. Its weird that after they get past that speed they will straighten out. Me thinks the bearing has enough slack in it that its allowing the run-out of the CV inner cup to resonate and "wobble" in the bearing which makes the growling.
I suspect the reason they are replacing the earlier model diffs is because they are most likely changing the tolerances in the front diff and the bearing to make it "tighter" on the splined axle stub sticking in the diff. Also i kinda suspect the rubber isolators / dampers are either
1) stiffer to reduce vibrations and resonations
2) shorter / taller to change the diff mounting height to change the axle angles.

 

Once you get the truck back can you post a picture of what the damper looks like? I haven't been able to find a picture of what it actually looks like.

 

That really sucks - what was the production date your vehicle? My ORP was manufactured 7/23, and I only have 6,300 miles on it. I don't drive it during the winter months - still "salt free".

 

Whaler not sure where you are located in MI but another option for Fluid Film is Motor City Auto Spa in Royal Oak. I paid around $225 and they did a very nice clean job. Also I had windows tinted there and Xpel put on the front. Just an idea depending where you are located.

 

I've seen them on the news in the morning, seems like a great place.

 

Twins! Mine is also 7/2023.

And same as you, sans this winter I have driven it quite a bunch because I am loving the heated steering wheel and my other SUV doesn't have that. I feel OK knowing that it was Fluid Filmed. I am going to have it re-coated in the next week or two just for peace of mind.

 

Yes they did a great job. The Xpel looks great and the windows. When they did the fluid film we removed the spare tire and they sprayed all the cavities. They are very careful and precise. I had them do some work on a few other cars also. Great group of guys if you make it down this way from Port Huron.

 

If I’d have to guess, the damper is just something to absorb noise that rather than actually damp the theoretical harmonics of the CV end that goes into the oversized needle bearing.

It kind of seems to be the same approach to the TSB on 5th gens for rear diff gear whine at around 60,65 mph. The first level of fix was adding sound insulation underneath the carpet in the cargo area.