Suspension Lift and wheel size body lift

Just wanted to ask for a lesson - I’ve never had anything with a suspension lift or even a body lift. My rig has
265/75R16 currently
Door jam says P225/75R15

what if I wanted to change to a bigger wheel such as a 17” would that be even possible or practical ?
Would it be a suspension lift or a body lift and how do u determine how much would be needed?

when wheel size changes what all is involved with that and required?
Does lug count always stay as it is ? Is the hubs something that changes with that ?
I apologize but I’m new to all this !

 

Watch part 1&2 of this:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_68Hc8GtLko

in general, suspension lift won’t let you put bigger tires on, but a body lift could. The IFS is not solid axel like a jeep (bigger lift = bigger tires). Generally to put something bigger than ~32” on will require either trimming, cutting, or pounding in parts of the wheel well.

if you wanted to put 17” wheels on that’s your prerogative, but it’s essentially just less rubber. For you a 265/75/r16 = 265/70/r17=~32” tires. The main thing to try and understand is scrub radius when turning, which is related to wheel offset (or backspacing). So a +25mm offset wheel may rub at a smaller tire size than a +0mm wheel etc etc. it can get a little complicated. It’d probably be easier to decide what size tire you shooting are for, and on what wheel, and then ask.

 

Thanks for the info and the video - Lets simplify my question and forget about everything else and start over - I ordered power stop brake with casting #13WL and now I’m wondering if my original wheel will work. Without actually having installed the parts - I was running ahead and wondering how to determine what wheels I have and other then trying to attach them for fit how to determine what I actually have to see if everything is compatible. The wheels say 16x7JJ

 

That just means your wheels are 16" in diameter and 7" from inside lip to lip.

Wheel size has nothing to do with needing a lift. A 33" tire is 33" tall if it's on a 15" wheel, a 16" wheel or even a 20" wheel.

Diameter of the wheel is important though because it fits over the brake components. As manufacturers use better and larger brake rotors, smaller wheels won't fit over them. If your brakes are stock, or stock size, you can use a 16" wheel. If you have aftermarket, larger, parts, you may need larger wheels.

Another reference on tires. Most of the tires we use today are measured in (partially) millimeters, so 265/75/16 for example. That's 265mm wide with 75% aspect ratio on a 16" wheel 265mm * .75 * 2 + 16 (31.6"). It can be confusing, so it's best to look at the tire specs and look at the overall diameter. You can easily go to a 17" or 18" or 20" wheel without, as long as the tire isn't greater than 31.6" in diameter. When you increase your tire diameter, not wheel diameter, you will have to consider a lift, to clear the tire, not the wheel.

Oh yeah, lug count stays the same. Lugs are the number of bolts holding the wheel on. There is a number of bolt holes and spacing. 6x5.5" or 6x139.7mm; six bolt holes spaced 5.5".

 

Great info ! Thanks for holding my hand so to speak !

 

This will help: I’m just looking at your thumbnail pic of the 4R, but looks like you have the OEM double 3-spoke, which would require a spacer to fit the WLs

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/which-wheels-fit-the-tundra-brake-upgrade-on-a-tacoma/

 

When I looked at that list in that link because I’ve looked at it in the past as well I was trying to determine what they called or how they reference that OEM will, but based on what I was reading, I thought it was indicating that they would work, but of course I didn’t know exactly what those wheels were I appreciate that info. I also downloaded the template and I’m gonna check that honestly anything I’ve ever drove no matter what it’s been. I’ve never replaced a wheel or bought an aftermarket wheel so that’s new territory as well. Trying to figure out what kind of wheel I have

 

That’s the 16” double 3-spoke, the attached guide states a .25” (hubcentric) spacer is required, but I haven’t done it myself. I put on 3rd gen Tacoma TRD pro wheels when I did mine (I like the look)

 

Do u have a photo ?

 

the 4R is meant to be loud - sorry in advance!

 

In theory these 6mm tiny spacers should work to clear your existing wheels if you want to go cheaper. generally, if using larger 1”+ spacers it’s good to use a trusted brand, for .25” though I think you can slap something like the below on without much trouble

https://www.suncentauto.com/product...0_FLK3KMjiZ_agSrjldm_bFVpdQw2j7xoCMdMQAvD_BwE

 

Very nice - love the look ! Where did you get those wheel and tires ?

 

I got the wheels from a dealer on sale - they are an older style TRD pro, any 3rd gen Tacoma pro wheel will fit, they just change styles every couple years mildly, so look for a year you like. You do need to buy the center caps separate. The tires are Falken Wildpeak AT4s (265/70/r16) and I got them from discount tire. I’ve got the AT3s on my Tacoma and liked them, so far the AT4s (which superseded the 3s) are probably a little better in the snow for me

 

Thanks again - I will look that up

 

What’s a “trusted” brand of spacer ?

 

Spidertrax or Bora. Again if you need 0.25” I wouldn’t worry too much about brand. If you like wheel poke and want 1”+ go with one of the above. Technically, wheel spacers introduce a potential point of failure, so best not to cheap out if going with a larger wheel spacer.

 

Skinny 33's easily fit without spacers or body lift and will barely rub at full lock while wheeling.