ACC Fuse Under Dahs

I installed a V1 radar detector with an add-a-fuse with the existing ACC 7.5A fuse on the bottom left of the under-dash fuse box near the e-brake pedal. It’s only hot when the truck is running. I do not have access to a wiring diagram, does anyone know what in the truck the ACC fuse is connected to?

 

I’m no great shakes with the wiring diagram, but the acc fuse leads off into the main body ECU. I think you should tap off the P/OUTLET fuse. It’s fed from the same relay as the acc fuse, and there’s nothing downstream except the 3 12 volt outlets.

 

Agree, would not want it on the circuit with a computer. Just moved it. That’s an advantage of the add-a-fuse product, easy to deal with. Next is hard-wiring my GPS/Dashcam, may just tap that same hot lead going to the V1, or maybe you have a suggestion for a different fuse, did some hunting and there aren’t many I trust that are hot only when truck is on.

These trucks are great for this, easy to remove A-Pillar trim and run wire down to the fuse box. My ‘08 was almost identical in this layout. I am not a great fan of those low-profile mini-blade fuses though.

Thanks,

 

Why not use the review mirror power harness thingy?

 

Not a fan of that method, prefer it have it’s own circuit & fuse. Not a good practice imo especially with a third party product with truck under warranty also.

 

If you’re using a fuse tap then your device doesn’t have its own circuit. I use the Dongar usb adapter with my dash cam and it’s been flawless.

I feel your pain regarding the tiny fuses. My dear old Dad once chagrined “The buttons keep getting smaller, but my fingers stay the same size.” He was talking about cell phones of course, but I think the same can be said of automotive fuses. The tiny Low Profile Mini fuses are ridiculously small. And the plastic fuse removal tool attached to the lid of the fuse box under the hood is inadequate to the task. So I treated myself to a proper fuse removal tool. It’s an inexpensive luxury.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006C3YM9E?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

I’m probably as old as dear old
dad.

 

Hi Bob. This whole topic is predicated on the worry that using a fuse tap doesn’t put a device on its own circuit. If a fuse tap puts a device on its own circuit then why worry whether your device is plugged into the acc fuse or the p/outlet?

To my thinking, having something on its own circuit means starting at the battery and going to an accessory fuse panel or relays from there and then to switches and devices, leaving the factory wiring unmolested.

 

I agree but I believe that’s what the add-a-fuse does. The hot side AC terminal connects to the 12V bus in the fuse box, so the red wire (my V1 radar detector) is protected by the fuse in the AB slot. No car electronics affected.

 

(Insert Strother Martin quote here.)

 

Hope this helps, I wouldn’t use ACC

 

Yeah, I agree. Poor name for that fuse. I did switch to the PUOUTLET fuse after another pointed that out.

Thanks for the suggestion. The image you posted is actually a bi fuzzy to read, can I get that original image to keep. I can PM my cell to send the image if possible.

 

Here you go.

 

Sorry for delay, ur right they do look blurry.
Let me PM you and take it from there!

 

Hey I posted a PDF version in post 14!