EFI fuse draining battery

I have a 2016 ORP 99k miles. Recently I have had an issue with battery draw. My battery of 6 months randomly began dying. Very weak crank then start. I replaced battery and next morning it this battery was dead. I had this second battery load tested , alternator was charging well and battery was good. Meanwhile I had original battery on trickle charger. Now I have two batteries. I re installed original battery after full charge . After two days the crank became very weak again. So now I know I have a parasitic draw. I test for draw with multimeter . I get 1.88 amp, I began pulling fuses , I came to 25amp fuse EFI my meter came down to 0.12. FOUND my draw. My question is, what’s connected to EFI to cause a draw of power over night? I see 3rd gen’s have a EFI relay but my 5th gen I do not see a relay, only my 25amp fuse. I should note I have zero issues with vehicle when battery is fully charged . No idling issue, no fuel intake issue. Just the power draw. When truck is off I can hear a noise near fuse block and when I pull the EFI fuse it’s dead silent. So this has got to be my power issue. Thank you for any insight to what’s connected to this system .

 

Any wiring mods? Sometimes people add mod wiring like Raptor lights to the EFI circuit.

 

I have after market ditch lights , lights in the roof rack , wench, and light bar in Bully bar. I don’t do the install. But after the install there was no issues , this just started . Install of items was a year ago. I’ll add that I did disconnect all wiring from battery for the aftermarket items to rule them out . They should not be receiving power

 

^Are there any fuse taps (aka add-a-circuit) in the two fuse boxes?

 

You need to let all the modules calm down before doing a draw test. Leave it overnight, then do the test without turning anything on.

 

When you're testing for current, are you disconnecting the negative battery cable and inserting the meter between it and the negative terminal on the battery? 1.88A is a big draw. I would think it would take out the fuse in the meter.

No alarm, remote start, etc.?

 

Yes, removed negative terminal , insert milli meter into terminal and then Touch top of battery post. It read 2.20 then shortly fell to 1.88 and remained steady at 1.88 untill I removed the EFI fuse

 

I don’t see any fuse taps no, nothing out of the ordinary, no extra wiring . Everything seems kosher.

 

No remote start or alarm, truck is all stock , stock radio . Besides after market lights , and lift and wheels that’s it

 

So a 24hr period? Is half day enough?

 

A few hours.

 

If you disconnect negative, wait for awhile, then put your meter into the circuit you have just "connected" the battery so things will wake up and draw power. Pretty sure that approach will give false reading. The ring style, clamp around the wire is non intrusive but also less accurate and more difficult to measure mA loads.

Any chance your vehicle has a LoJack? I have been wondering if my 2016, with 2016 LoJack, is causing parasitic draw.

 

You speaking about an amp clamp? I don’t own one. So I’m doing it the old fashioned way with connecting to negative terminal and battery post. Seems to be the most common without an amp clamp. I I have the truck sitting tonight , no power connected . Gonna check in the morning with full charged battery again. See if I get anything different. I’ve heard that it sounds like the ignition isn’t shutting off which is causing the draw . Definitely a click sound of a relay when I remove that 25a EFI fuse