Brake Bleeding problems...Please Help!

Planning on replacing front brake calipers. Thought I would do a brake flush first and have fresh fluid to start. Attempted the 1 man brake bleed procedure. Gatorade bottle with enough fluid in the bottom, clear hose, 3/16id hose so nice and tight on the bleeder screw. Filled master put cap on, engine off. Started with back passenger. Cracked bleeder valve and some fluid started coming out along with some bubbles. I go to the pedal and first push is very firm almost more than normal, second push pedal goes down a bit. That's all I got. After that pedal was firm and no noticeable fluid was coming out. fussed with it for a while. Gave up, Brakes work fine pedal may be a little firmer. Second try, go to drivers side rear. Same set up. Crack valve and def getting a slow gravity bleed. Try pedal and same thing, firm pedal no fluid. Try with master cap off no difference. Stop process, brakes work fine pretty firm pedal. What's going on? Thinking about picking up a hand vacuum pump and work from the bleeder only. Afraid to start front caliper replace until i find out what's going on.

 

Don't know but the only way I've done it is with 2 people. With the cap on of course, someone in the car to pump the brakes and hold and then open the bleeder valve just momentarily so while they are holding the brake pedal down and it sinks in, it doesn't go to the floor.

Really not sure how you would do it by yourself without a vacuum. Might want to grab a 2nd person.

 

There is a one man method. I researched it pretty well. Of course it always works on youtube...until you try it yourself

 

There's a specific process. This is from the 4Runner service manual, shared from another forum's post by a user called cabowally. My notes are (in parentheses). Grayed text shows steps most people don't need to worry about for routine brake work.

Also note the order - front then rear, and that the pedal use is different for each.
==
BRAKE FLUID: BLEEDING
NOTICE:
Wash off brake fluid immediately if it comes into contact with a painted surface.
If the brake pedal is depressed with the reservoir cap removed, then brake fluid will spatter.

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system. When bleeding, keep the amount of the fluid between the Min. and Max. lines on the reservoir.

(Most people can ignore this step - see bolded text below.)
FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3
BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY HINT: Perform this step only if the brake booster with accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or installed.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal 20 times or more to release the pressure from the accumulator.
(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.
(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start the brake booster pump.
(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.

BLEED BRAKE LINE - FRONT
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(4) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(5) Repeat (3) and (4) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
(6) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.

BLEED BRAKE LINE - REAR
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and depress the brake pedal.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.
HINT: Brake fluid is sent through the pump, so keep the brake pedal depressed until the air is completely bled out.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.

(Again, ignore unless you have done the work described in bold text below).
BLEED MASTER CYLINDER SOLENOID HINT: Perform this step only if the master cylinder solenoid is removed and/or installed.
(a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(c) Select "Active Test" mode on the Techstream.
(d) Connect the vinyl tube to the rear brake caliper.
(e) Loosen the bleeder plug.
(f) Select "TRAC Solenoid (SRMF & SRMR)" to drive the solenoids and bleed air from the rear brake caliper.
NOTICE: Do not depress the brake pedal.
HINT: Brake fluid is sent through the pump.
To protect the solenoids, the Techstream turns OFF automatically 2 seconds after every solenoid has been turned ON.
(g) Repeat step (f) until all the air in the brake fluid is bled out.
(h) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(i) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
(j) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(k) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(l) Clear DTC See: Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

Hope this helps.

 

How is this special?

 

It's not special, it's specific, as in being described by Toyota as the appropriate process for the 4th Gen 4Runner. For example, the OP stated he started with the rear passenger wheel, and most people assume that's the bleed order like it is with many other vehicles. It's not. For 4th Gen 4Rs, you do the front and then the rear, and the pedal operation is different for each. My assumption is that it's because there are separate brake lines for the front and rear but I'm not a mechanic so that's just my take.

 

Its exactly what I do on any vehicle which is why I was asking whats different.

 

Sounds like you didn't have the bleeder screw open enough or there was crud in the fluid that occluded the bleeder screw port. Two person is the way to go unless you have a power or vacuum bleeder. My wife used to help me but I decided to get a one man setup to save my marriage. I got a small handheld Mityvac but found it be such a pain to keep repetatively squeezing that trigger. Took a long time and the results were so-so. I now have a Mityvac MV6835 vacuum bleeder powered by my air compressor - works well and easy to flush a quart through the system. You have to ignore the bubbles because the vacuum draws in air around the bleeder. For that reason, some folks prefer to use the Motiv pressure bleeder.

 

Bluesky, Thank you. I think the ignition not being on may have been the problem.

 

You’re welcome. Paying forward a little of the amazing help I’ve found in forums through the years. While we’re talking about this, I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. If you’re not familiar, it’s essentially a one-way bleed valve that lets the brake fluid come out, but doesn’t let air back in. Not very expensive and helps a lot if you’re doing it on your own.

 

So speed bleeders are like a one way check valve? Good to know. I thought they were just larger holes to do the job quicker.

 

So doing some more research it seems my vehicle has some sort of hydraulic pump in the system which is why i was having the problem. What if I used a cheap hand pump vacuum bleeder just working from the bleeder screws (no pedal involved, ignition off) ? I know the connector caps that come with these things suck in air as well as suck out the fluid, which I don't like. Instead of using them I can direct connect my 3/16id tubing which gives me a tight seal at the bleeder. then I'm thinking make a better collection vessel. Pickle jar, tight fitting cap, a couple of holes in cap, epoxy my tubing to the cap for air tight seal??? Glass jar would give me better vacuum than plastic Gatorade bottle (no flex) Pretty simple and easy to modify. Once the epoxy is set I'm ready to go. Any thoughts?

 

And Yes, I like to over think things!

 

They pay Toyota engineers a lot of money to figure out the proper way to do things and you want to change it??