Jack Stand/Floor Jack Help

I’m in the market for Jack stands and a floor jack. My 5th Gen is stock, no lift.

For those of you who have these items, how much lift/height do the stands need and how much height/stroke does the jack need?

Thanks.

 

Apparently I am somewhat of a collector of jack stands. Currently have 8 sets.

For the rear of the 4runner, I use a set of 6 ton jack stands that i got from Northern Tool on the axle housings. The curve in the pocket of the jackstands fits the round axle perfectly.

However, that style isn't wide enough for the front frame rails. Didn't like the frame sitting on the "ears" of the jack stand. So after trying a few other ones, I settled on a set of 6 ton jack stands from US Jack. Pricey but they have a wide saddle that the frame rests comfortably on.

I have 2 floor jacks. One is a craftsman 3.5 ton that I bought about 26 years ago and the other is an Arcan 3.5 ton that I got from costco about a year ago. Both are great and lift the 4Runner high enough to properly set the hack stands.

 

I use Daytona 6ton jacks from Harbor Freight. The extra height over the 3 ton are perfect for both my 4Runners and I don’t have to extend them all the way like the 3ton would require which makes it more stable. They also have a wider base

 

Thanks guys I appreciate it!

 

Get 6 tons stands, the 3 tons will lift the car but they don't extend up enough to get the wheels off the ground even fully extended.

I have AC delco ones and Big Red ones, both are fine but too short

 

Daytona 3 ton low profile / long reach. About a 24” lift which gets it high enough for most suspension work (No problem with rear spring change). Always some sort of sale at harbor freight and actually decently made.

Make sure you get “Long Reach” model. There are several different 3 ton models.




Product Overview
This heavy duty 3 Ton Car Jack gets vehicles almost two feet off the ground. Long reach and extra-low profile reaches under most performance cars. Dual piston RAPID PUMP® technology lifts most work loads in just 3-1/2 pumps.

• Lift height of 3-1/3 in. to 24-1/4 in., ideal for low-profile vehicles to trucks and SUVs
• Lift capacity of up to 6000 lb.
• Dual piston hydraulic system
• 100% precision-welded steel construction
• High-strength, rust-resistant hardware
• Ball bearing premium rear swivel casters for 360° mobility
• Rotating, removable jack saddle adapts quickly to lift accessories
• Professional quality modern design
• Industrial strength powder coat finish

 

I fabricated attachments to bottle jack or factory jack.
Idea was on a LC forum.

 

For up front get the HF Daytona 3-ton jack stands with circular pads. Much better on the frame rails than the “U” saddle on the ratcheting style. Get a second set if you need the axle free (rear suspension work)…or a get set of the 3-ton Heavy Duty Ratcheting jack stands to support the rear axle. The 3-ton jack stands have plenty of height for general maintenance work and you can get rubber caps for the saddles.

The Daytona 3-ton floor jack comes in various flavors. I have the long reach low profile to use with cars, but the regular configuration is fine for the 4Runner. The added cost of the Daytona jack over the Pittsburgh line is worth it, IMO.

ETA: I have the Superduty jack. Looking at the specs on the standard configuration, the superduty and long reach are going to get you 4-6” more lift, which is helpful lifting the front (more so than the rear)

 

All good suggestions. My main motivation is for tire rotations. I’ve used the factory bottle jack but I figured a floor jack would be quicker and easier. A quick measurement from the average bottom of frame rail to the floor is about 12”. So low profile isn’t a top priority. As I remember, jacking from the frame, it has to get pretty high before the wheel is free to rotate. This is using the recommended jack points in the owners manual.

 

I have been using a 3.5 ton Torin Big Red jack for 14 years now without issues. For jack stands I have V notch ones that I don’t remember where I purchased from and Esco 3 ton stands that I bought specifically to work on my GTO because the pads are flat.

 

I'm surprised no one has suggested a QuickJack

 

I definitely want one of their lifts but no room.

 

I seriously considered Quickjacks but it seems like it's more work to drag them off the wall, route all the hoses and get them aligned under the vehicle than just jacking the front and rear with a normal floor jack and jack stands. I can get the whole vehicle up in the air in 10-15 min.

I do agree a floor jack is a way better choice for working in the garage than the toyota "bottle jack". It's safer too. Definitely a quality of life improvement. I do use the extra toyota bottle jack I have as an extra security measure when I have my other cars (Accord and Camry) on ramps to change the oil. I put it on the center jack point and just give it a little turn by hand to snug it up. It's actually a wonderful little jack but doesn't replace a good floor jack.

The jack stands with flat saddles are good but I worry about raising a 3 ton stand too high. If they are available in 6-ton size, they would be a good option. The single pin to hold it kind of bothers me but I'm sure it's fine.

As I mentioned before, the 6 ton US Jacks jack stand saddle is wider than the 4Runners frame rail and I'm only up 2-3 clicks to have the wheels off the ground (I'm lifted 2"). They are expensive but what's your life worth?

 

Here is my collection of jack stands. Falls under things you acquire after 27 years of wrenching on cars.

 

I have the HF Low Profile/ Long Reach with Rapid Pump jack and the 6 ton jack stands (3 ton were not tall enough).

Jack works great, although I'd like to buy a jack pad for it- probably two: one flat and one for our vehicles that jack from the pinch welds.

As mentioned above, I also would prefer wider saddles on the jack stands. They work fine if sitting on the axles, but not on the frame rails. Not sure if someone offers an adapter but I'd probably purchase one if they did.

 

Where are you lifting from? I have the Daytona 6 ton and for the front it's fully extended to get the front tire just barely off the ground lifting from the frame.

 

That was my concern. Seems an extended travel jack or one with pad extensions would be preferred.

 

Before I purchase a jack and stands, I should probably jack the car up and measure the frame to ground distance rather than playing the guessing game.

 

I do have a 1.75" lift for what that's worth. I would get this one if I did it over again-https://

 

When you do this, note that the front is going to "roll over" the jack stands as you lower it onto the jack stands and the rear springs uncompress - lowering the front wheels a bit when it is at rest. Then, when you lift the rear wheels, it is going to further lower the front.

The Arcan 3000 XLS jack I have has a lift height of 20.25". At full lift on the front it allows me to place the jack stands so i can get all 4 wheels off the ground. If I need more height, I use a 2x4 block on the jack pad. Jack points are center of skid on the front (built in support) and rear diff.

Ideally, if i did it again, I would buy a jack that lifts 22" or greater at max height.

 

Look at this goofy jack.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...c135/tank-tough-3-ton-floor-jack/tnk0/tt20231

 

I'm speechless...

 

larger is usually better is what I have found out when using jack stands. Yea I could use 3ton jacks most likely but for my application they would have to be extended all the way up. I have found that if you extend a jack stand all the way up it becomes less stable. The larger stands sit higher to begin with and have a wider base. That all equals a more stable setup. They do cost a few bucks more but personally I don’t care as I do lean toward being more safe when I have to get under a vehicle. Some people don’t see any issue with using a high lift jack but I think they are crazy and there are lots of dead people to prove that point.

If you have a lift I wouldn’t even try to go cheaper and use a 3 ton but again it’s your choice and if you pick wrong we may never know your were wrong and just wonder why you never posted back and told us what you did.

if your worried that a 6ton is to large don’t. I use it on all 3 of mine without any issue and they all sit at different levels.

 

If you want something a bit cheaper than the US Jack 6 ton stack stands and still have a saddle wide enough for the front, I ordered these first.

Hein Warner HW93506.

However, I was wholly unimpressed with the quality of welds and finish or the saddle itself. I returned them and bought the US Jack ones. Entirely made in the USA.

Edit - i don't work for US Jack. Just care about all of you on this forum

 

Lots of good input and useful information, thank you all!

 

Esco jackstands are the best I've ever used. And the only ones I give full trust to.

I haven't used the Harbor Freight jacks too much, but the ones I have used have worked find. I have an Arcan low-profile that I've used primarily for the last 15 years or so.

 

I forgot about this guys YouTube. I remember watching him when I was trying to determine what size stands to get.

the info on jacks and stands starts around the 12:12 mark. You can see visually the difference in size a 3, 6 and 12 ton stand is.

I am thinking about getting some 12 ton stands for when I do suspension work.

https://youtu.be/OF5pfWoTNy0?si=FnbiEHDyfVKFfTYD

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

I guess if a person did not have a smooth cement floor to work on, it would have benefits.

 

Hopefully it wouldn’t need the silly tracks to work right when one comes off and you lose it, or when one falls apart. Although then you would have 8 small steel wheels getting caught on everything instead of 4. Seems like a silly complication to guarantee a useless jack in a few years time.


Although, did you see the reviews? One truthful, non-sarcastic reviewer said it works fine to jack up his 1984 model year Abrahms M1A1 battle tank. So who knows.