Rolled a rock and destroyed my skid plate and need advice

I have KDSS.

 

Just got back to the coast after blasting from Cedar City. First thing when I get home.... Lol

Bolts accessible and I can see a slight bend of the bracket if a couple of degrees.

 

you can still use one. You just have to notch it out more for KDSS movement

 

I read a post I think on another forum where people were notching them. Is it true they also toss the brackets I have bent and bolts to the frame?

 

Kdss version

https://cartrimhome.com/Bumper-Skid...cFuAFmRYagkBlx0lKP7aOQKxWhDBQcf3nyB46U1VxDoTa

 

yes and yes

 

KDSS VERSION
https://cartrimhome.com/Bumper-Skid...cFuAFmRYagkBlx0lKP7aOQKxWhDBQcf3nyB46U1VxDoTa

 

Looks like some mounting over the brackets with longer bolts and some to the frame. As far as protection I think in some ways the brackets do help as far as the stock plate and possibly the RCI. They are sacrificial regarding the under frame mounting underneath as well as being rather stout and attached to the frame behind. The rock I rolled onto may have done more damage without those brackets. Allowed me to slide back off the rock. Otherwise may have pushed up and done more damage. Sort of leaning towards the RCI and utilizing the brackets or if another is direct mounted but heavily reinforced so do not give.

I guess I am leaning towards the black steel RCI and replacing the brackets. Being in SoCal and garaged since not my daily driver I can keep rust at bay and do a spray touch up as needed. Second choice bare aluminum. I hesitate getting the bumper to plate filler plate thinking if someone back into my bumper it may cause more damage than using the plastic valance and a couple of zip ties on each end or tucked in somehow such as using heavy duty velcro.

I found the brackets, but they are not listed that way but considered suspension. In any case.
51403-60030 - Toyota Parts Deal $102 each.
And here for $98 each. 2017-2024 Toyota 4Runner Front Brace 51403-60030 | OEM Parts Online
I verified my vehicle code and assumed these are for each bracket.

This guys video comparing RCI steel to aluminum is interesting, informative and on point. Aluminum VS Steel skid plates.

 

Just looked at the Talons and they look like a good option. I like the center rectangular mount for added support. And can still utilize the plastic valance. The downside it the fastener heads are exposed. At least compared to the RCI which has shoulders around the bolt heads.

 

Get a big hammer..itll add "character"

 

That trade off is worth carefully considering before buying armor, especially if you don’t see yourself off-roading in rocky situations very frequently, since you are actually giving up a lot of thoughtful design. It’s also worth remembering that aftermarket armor can also get bent up/damaged.

Believe it or not, stock armor is more than just a “cover”. They are well designed to take a pretty hard hit and still protect the undercarriage. Yes, they are sacrificial in hard hits, but that also means they absorb energy and protect other components from getting shocked, such as the engine/drivetrain mounts. They provide better airflow. They have better protection from the elements (like salt spray, sand, snow pack, mud) than most aftermarket options that aren’t nearly as wide as stock.

As far as maintainance, the stock armor mounting bolts are all very well protected. On aftermarket, if you need them off for maintainance and you find one bolt that’s mangled, you end up with a few extra hours of work. The stock skids are also designed with a built-in jack point so that you don’t have to remove them to lift the entire front end.

Armor is worth it when you know you’re gonna be sliding over stuff a lot. But you have to carefully examine the design to make sure it truly protects what you want it to protect. In my case, I wanted my LCA mounting tabs to have good protection; but most aftermarket armor is a actually worse than stock (no coverage at all for the LCA tabs). Another thing to consider is that you will high-center more frequently with many aftermarket systems that have a transmission plate.

Although, I’ll admit, one good reason to want armor for the occassional off-roader is protect the exhaust crossover in front of the transfer case.

 

Can always put the skid on the ground and use the factory bottle jack against the vehicle frame to flatten it. However, you know that saying about doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results... If the skid had already failed once off road, you want to upgrade to a stronger skid to rectify the deficiency.

 

All very valid points. To illustrate your point, I went with an aluminum RCI engine skid after trying the CTH faux Pro skid (which I just didn't care for the look of), and ran that for a while. Down the road I realized that 1) I wasn't doing the type of off-roading that required such a skid, and 2) changing the oil with the RCI skid, even though it had an access panel for the filter housing, was more of a pain in the rear than just removing the oem front skid. I didn't feel it gave enough access to the filter to not make a giant mess. End of story - I sold the RCI and put my oem skid back on. Two oil changes later, still glad I did. I know others are quite happy with the RCI's access panel, and that's great.

 

Stripped her down and the results.... Front and rear skid needed. At least one of the brackets is toast. Clearly, I utilized the rear skid somewhere else in my travels, but it is bent. RCI said nothing in stock but after laying on my back to remove the rear skid at 68 years, decided I'll let my dealer do all my fluids, strip off the brackets and rear skid and install the stock replacements I am going to order shortly. They did their job and bent and absorbed the impacts and provide probably better cooling.

 

The rear skid doesn't look all that bad - it seems like it could be flattened back out on that tab area...

I don't want to add to your woes, but 2nd photo sure seems to show the sway bar bent up...:


Which may affect handling, or not...

 

I noticed that but I didn't see it contacted. I thought I saw another image of one that had a slight bend. I'll have to check.

Note the image does show a slight bend/kink in it. It's a $249 item except $400 from the dealer. Just glad it was not impacted.

Rear skid could indeed be bent back and one bracket is probably OK, but pretty inexpensive so I'll have those as spares. 

 

1.5" dia. solid steel bar isn't going bend lol.