Protection Set Up

Alright so…

I tried to use the search function and watched YouTube videos about it but I want to get a consensus. With this “build” mods are going to be limited, I really want to keep this “sleeper” as much as possible.

I do want to take it off road and on trips and overland so I’m going to be protect the important bits. This calls for full length skid plates and frame sliders.

I know aluminum is sort of garbage truly off-road and a couple hits won’t dent it but most likely will start breaking the welding seams. I do know they are a lot lighter but also more expensive.

Steel is good and cheaper but it’s heavy, though now I have seen thinner steel plates.

I was thinking about ABR but as far as I can tell, they don’t have the trap door to do oil changes without having to drop the whole thing. So that’s out.

also, I live in FL, can I just get either of them raw metal and will I be ok?

Frame sliders, I’m really leaning OEM because price and since they aren’t as heavy duty I’m sure they are lighter. Also install seems like a breeze.

 

Bump? Am I missing something?

 

For armor there’s quite a few good companies out there . RCI, Victory 4x4, Westcott Designs to name a few .
As for sliders they all are pretty much the same and bolt to the preexisting threaded holes along the frame rails .

 

how necessary is it to have to paint or powder coated? Can I just rock raw metal?

 

Most sliders bolt to the outboard frame rail. Some will have a 90º bend and a few bolts on the bottom, too. This a flush mount slider from Westcott Designs.



This is a 90º bend slider. Victory 4x4.


I went with these. They bolt up on 3 sides of the frame with 13 bolts per side and coupled with their skids creates a cohesive unit that is second to none for strength. The skids do have the access plates for oil changes.

https://www.4xinnovations.com/2010--2024-4Runner-Bolt-On-Rock-Slider_p_157.html

 

Well if you want to save some money buy the raw steel and just paint them yourself with a 10 dollar can of Rust-Oleum .

 

Yeah see it’s what I thought

 

They will rust in an hour if they are raw. Your rattle can paint job will be too thin, and if you drive offroad they will get sanded by the sand and gravel and rust in another hour. Buy quality powder coated armor or don't waste your time and money.

Here's the other thing, you do NOT need full skids. You need to wheel a little, and from there see what you really need.

 

There isn't a powder coat robust enough to stand up to sliding on rocks. Ding the powder coat and you're gonna fix it by.....painting it. Use a rust preventative like POR-15 or Steel-It and paint over that. It won't stand up to rocks but you need to realistic about what the sliders will be used for. If you are hard core rock crawling, anything that is applied is going to get scrapped off. I touch up the sliders every spring and fall with a rattle can.

 

@Stoney Ranger obviously, but the OP lives in Florida, and powdercoat on a new product is so much better than a $10 rattlecan job that rattle can is comparatively worthless.

 

For me the protection is more about having the car equipped for light over landing camping or potentially getting out of town Florida natural disaster.

 

Thinking of going this route, haven’t pulled the trigger yet.