Engine coolant replacement video

Here’s a good DYI video on engine coolant replacement. Apparently there’s no bleeder port on our engine, which simplifies the procedure. Only thing I’m not sure about is that he says you only need 1 gallon but the coolant capacity is 11.1 qts.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OP9kI8Rpzgw

 

I like this guy's videos, he's got some good info from being a tech.

 

This is a super-easy change, get a small hose to put on the drain valve outlet (wish all cars had these) and crack her open.

 

This video was good to see as I am planning to do a coolant flush sometime this winter or early spring. Based on what I saw in the video, and from author's the comments in the video, he is only using one gallon of coolant and like what the OP of this thread mentions, that seems odd. Based on the procedure in the video I believe you are only replacing 1/3 of the coolant in the system.

When I peruse the factory service manual it states to the following:
1. Loosen radiator drain cock plug.
2. Remove the radiator cap and drain the coolant.
3. Loosen the cylinder block drain cock plug and drain the coolant from the engine.
Then:
4. Tighten the cylinder block drain cock plug.
5. Tighten the radiator drain cock plug by hand.
6. Add engine coolant. Standard Capacity: 10.5 liters (11.1 US qts, 9.2 Imp. qts)
7. Slowly pour coolant into the radiator reservoir until it reaches the F line.
8. Install the reservoir cap.
9. Install the radiator cap.
10. Start the engine and stop it immediately.
11. Allow approximately 10 seconds to pass. Then remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. If the coolant level has
decreased, add coolant.
12. Repeat steps 9, 10, and 11 until the coolant level does not decrease (while engine is cold).
Then:
13 and on. There is a warm-up sequence and test and then coolant level check (after cool down).

Does anyone here follow the service manual method(s) and agree with what I am seeing?

 

The procedure you outlined makes more sense. I actually reached out to Viking asking for clarification and he aknowleded that his procedure doesn’t replace the full capacity. That’s why he recommends doing it every 30k miles. I think this approach is similar to the drain and fill method for the transmission. My only concern, is this enough dilution to maintain a healthy coolant mixture?

 

I am planning to follow the service manual, otherwise it seems that you are not removing very much "caustic" old coolant. To me replacing a gallon at a time (every 30k) means that you are only perpetually diluting old coolant.

 

How often does it need to be flushed.

 

Yeah just doing the rad is bullshit. Do the engine drain as well. You need clear hose. Exact size is 3/8 OD which is almost 1/4 ID. Fits perfectly. If you drain the block and the rad and overflow, I got about 10 quarts out of it, not quite 11 but most of it. I did find it took about 40min to burp the air using the usual magic fun kit on top.

I dont see any point in just doing the rad. Its not even half the system.

 

From models 13 forward there is only a single bleeder port on the block. Go to passenger wheel well. Look above top section of tire..look directly into block. You cant miss it. Use a 10mm socket with maybe 2 extenders on it, whatever will reach. Break it open slowly, i found mine was abit sludgy...do NOT remove it all the way. do abit back and forth, using clear tubing you will see the flow as it drains out. See pic



edit to add. You loosen the 10mm bolt. The clear tubing slides onto to small pipe like inlet on the pic right below the bolt. Its very easy. Get the right size tubing as it wont pop off and make a mess. Maybe 3 to 4 feet depending upon where you put your bucket or whatever your using to catch it. Retorque bleeder port to like 8lbs. Or snug it lightly..do not over torque.

 

Never. lol

Not sure of the interval but i would think as needed.

 

its listed as every 100000 miles, or sooner. I would factor in idling and age of coolant not just mileage. Its very easy job to do, the materials are super cheap and it protects... the crap water pump

 

Just did my coolant this weekend at just under 60k.
Two gallons came out, two gallons went back in.
Annoying factoid is the engine block drain nipple is smaller than the radiator petcock drain, so if you use the same size hose, she dribbles.

 

what? Did mine last week...the hose was identical size for both petcock and drain plug outlet. Nice snug push on fitting. No dribbling..

 

I used a 3/8 ID clear hose which was snug on the radiator petcock, but was not totally snug on the engine block drain. It fit, but was slightly smaller.

 

Ha I started off with 3/8 ID hose to. It was to lose, let dribbles out. So I went out and got 3/8 OD with 1/4 ID. Fit like a glove. No issues popped right on and off. Try that one if you can. It fits perfectly. I got the part number on the hose from the Depot if you need it. Was like $4 for 10 feet for PVC clear

 

yea next time I'll use the smaller for the block

 

Home depot sells the tubing. Its super cheap. I actually had the larger stuff first and noted it didnt fit on the block, so I went out and got the 3/8 OD which then fit snug.