2024 ORP, all stock... Keeping OEM headunit for now. Best build?

This truck is too new for me to start replacing the OEM headunit as my wife will not approve and think I'm a madman (the deck will be crossing the line in our household ), but I do want to upgrade the speakers in the truck and possibly add an aftermarket amp to power them. I have researched and it appears i need a component that plugs into the headunit prior to amplifier to "clear" the signal.

I am also interested in keeping things as OEM and stock looking as possible. I came across the JL Audio Stealthbox and although the price is higher than I would like to spend, I wouldn't mind pulling the trigger for the "oem look" factor as I don't want to have visible subbox in the cargo or backseat area. I do prefer the sound of a 12, but I have never had a 10" woofer and wouldn't mind the sacrifice to keep things "stealth" and looking OEM.

Would replacing the speakers (looking at the kicker kit), adding an amplifier, signal processor for the OEM deck, and adding a stealth box be worth the effort? If not, is all of it pointless without replacing the factory deck?

I went to cartoys for a quote and it was outrageous to upgrade the sterero system ($5k for Level 1 upgrade). I am comfortable, patient, and have experience with car audio as I have installed amplifiers, decks, speakers since I was 16 years old (I'm 40 now). I have not done in a brand new vehicle though, but I trust my patience to do it right - especially with enough research.

Curious if there any other members on the same boat as me. I plan on keeping the vehicle longtime and would like to have a better stereo in place that I can crank up with better quality over the OEM.

 

I went the route that you want to take. I kept the factory head unit but I upgraded the speakers, and I added an amp to the speakers. I went with the Trail Grid Pro kicker package and it was money VERY well spent. My system rocks now.

A few things to mention:

1) Add an amp to really maximize the sound. I tried the Trail Grid Pro package without it installed for about a month. It sounded a lot better than stock, but I knew it could get much better.
2) If you add the Kickers, make sure you (or the shop that you chose), add a converter to the head unit. I think that's what they installed in mine. Check my past posts in this section, it talks about the accessory they added to it. It was only $40, and necessary to make my head unit work with the new speakers.

I almost chose the OEM Audio package w/subwoofer. That way I could have a dedicated sub and it was only a little more money, but I didn't like how bulky it looked. Plus I couldn't hide it. I wanted stealth. But after hearing how much bass the Trail Grid Pro Kicker package put out without a subwoofer...I'm happy. It gets so loud that you can feel the bass in your seat and the back window vibrates. The best part, it looks ALL stock. You'd never know I upgraded it. Well, until I cranked it up to rock out.

All in, I spent about $1700? Labor/Install/Accessories/Speakers. Don't let Car Toys touch your ride. They will rape you on pricing. I had them install the speakers for me (before I installed the amp), and I paid more for the install labor than I did for the speakers.

I had Bestbuy (Yeah, Bestbuy) install the amp and hook up the rest. I should have chosen them the first time. I would've saved $500 if I had.

 

OEM Audio +, Trailgrid Pro and Taco Tunes have full plug and play solutions. You can also put something together yourself with products from Crutchfield.

I went OEM Audio because I didn’t like the TT sub enclosure.

 

I appreciate the responses. Since I plan on keeping this truck a long time, I'm considering splurging for the JL Audio Stealth Box, speaker replacement (undecided which ones yet, but considering the Kicker upgrade), and a 5 channel amp. It sounds like I need some sort of LOC to convert what's coming off of the deck.

 

I went with all Kicker speakers, a 5 channel kicker amp and they installed a LOC on my head unit.

 

By chance do you happen to know which model of kicker amp you are using the push the Trail Grid Kicker Speakers? I'm looking to adding a Kicker Keyloc 200.4 amp, but this is only 4 channel. I'm getting lured into it because of the DIY/budget friendly DSP that is built-in. Figure it's an inexpensive way for me to test one out before taking the plunge on the more expensive options... I like the idea of going this route first to see if I even have the need for a subwoofer.

As much as I think that I'm a SoundQuality/Audiophile person, I think I also like Volume just as much.

I appreciate the help.

 

CXA 3604

https://www.4runners.com/threads/trail-grid-pro-kicker-8-speaker-bundle.35128/#post-534723

Read this thread. It outlines everything I did and installed.

 

Well, today I pulled the trigger on a Helix V Eight DSP Amplifier for the truck. Going to install this with the stock speakers for now (mainly for practicing and learning of the DSP). Once I'm comfortable with the setup, I will replace the stock speakers and decide if I want a subwoofer.

Is Taco Tunes the best harness available to connect to the factory head unit? I saw a Red Wolf harness that was cheaper, but not sure of the quality. I don't want to have to "extend" any of the leads to the amplifier and prefer to have enough wire from the harness (will mount under passenger seat). Also, need to find a good quality amplifier wiring kit (knuconceptz maybe?)

I also plan on bypassing the Hatch Speakers and running new wire to the dash speakers so that channel isn't wired in parallel. My dog will probably be glad to have the hatch speakers removed so it's a win-win.