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Brake job at 200,000 miles

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by Hank, Jul 8, 2024.

  1. Jul 8, 2024 at 9:12 AM
    #1
    Hank

    Hank [OP] New Member

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    Im planning on replacing the front rotors and pads. Rotors are original and have some warpage evident on longer downhill braking.
    Do the caliper pistons need to be replaced as well and do the bearings need to be repacked or replaced for another 200k trouble free miles?
    Its a 2011, garage kept, two wheel drive SR5 with no modifications that is driven by my nurse wife. I need essentially a dependable ride for her that keeps on trucking.
    I havent pulled the wheels yet but I do know the rotors are fairly deeply scored.
    To me it just makes sense to replace the rotors and not bother with trying to have them turned down. I haven't had much luck with this in the past. I’ll be doing the work myself and have all the necessary tools.
    Rock Auto has them reasonably priced.
    Thanks for any help you can offer.
     
  2. Jul 8, 2024 at 9:24 AM
    #2
    catbrown357

    catbrown357 New Member

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    I had a problem on my 2011 with a sticking piston on a caliper, which would cause rotor warping due to the pad constantly dragging. I ended up replacing the calipers. In hindsight, I wish I would have rebuilt the originals, but I just didn't have the time. Make sure your calipers are in good shape before you replace rotors and pads. I made this mistake which resulted it doing the job twice.
    Unless you're hearing noise in the front end that you suspect could be wheel bearings, don't mess with it.
     
  3. Jul 8, 2024 at 12:48 PM
    #3
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A Toyota Gigolo

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    I bought a used 2010. At 150k I replaced everything - rotors, calipers, flex hoses, the little hard line between the caliper and flex hose... Parts I used: https://www.4runners.com/posts/502671

    Wheel bearing can be replaced on condition (meaning replace if you feel wobble or hear noise when turning the hub). It's a sealed unit and pressed together with the hub with a lot of force. Most DIYers just get a pre-assembled hub-bearing unit, then it just mounts to the knuckle with 4 bolts. For example, $100 SKF hub-bearing unit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12676789&cc=1418239&pt=1636&jsn=441
     
  4. Jul 16, 2024 at 7:06 AM
    #4
    Hank

    Hank [OP] New Member

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    I received the SKB hub/bearing assemblies and immediately noticed Made in China.
    What are your thoughts on Chinese parts?
    Not mentioned in the marketing.
     
  5. Jul 16, 2024 at 7:41 AM
    #5
    icebear

    icebear Recovered Kia Owner

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    I’m not familiar with the specifics of brake components but in general it depends on brand/where you got it and how closely whoever commissioned the part watches the Chinese manufacturer/operation.

    it runs the gamut from Apple levels of fit-and-finish to literal trash so being “Made in China” isn’t a definitive sign.

    If you got it from seller OUYZZSA (those alphabet soup sellers) on Amazon that’s not good. But something reputable from RockAuto? I’d feel better about that.

    Edit: I now see you meant the linked part, I’ll defer to others for specifics.
     
  6. Jul 16, 2024 at 7:51 AM
    #6
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A Toyota Gigolo

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    Yes they're SKF parts made in China, with SKF's quality control. I've been running one on my Tacoma trail rig (see avatar pic) since 2022, when the OEM made-in-Japan NSK failed at just 26k miles.
     
    Hank[QUOTED][OP] and icebear like this.
  7. Jul 16, 2024 at 8:38 AM
    #7
    Hank

    Hank [OP] New Member

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    I did buy this from RockAuto
     
  8. Jul 16, 2024 at 10:57 AM
    #8
    Rocko9999

    Rocko9999 New Member

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    Are people getting good mileage out of those bearings?
     
  9. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:55 AM
    #9
    nova

    nova New Member

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  10. Jul 16, 2024 at 8:53 PM
    #10
    kolter45

    kolter45 Inferno Pro & 4.0 Tacoma

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    Just rebuild the calipers, buy new rotors & pads. If your doing that, I’d buy new tires & get an alignment too. That & new fluid. That’s what I did & my truck brakes way better!
     
  11. Jul 16, 2024 at 11:56 PM
    #11
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    Dobinson IMS Warn Bumper CaliRaised Sliders 285/70 K02s
    I’ve never had the experience of rebuilding calipers, but I’m curious.

    Around here, calipers often seize up due to salt on the road causing corrosion. I’m not sure what mechanism leads to frozen calipers. Which makes me wonder, is it possible for corrosion to creep into the bores and make them “un-rebuildable? These have 4 pistons per caliper, so if corrosion can scrap them, it seems you’d have lower probability of a successful rebuild.

    Anybody have any unsuccessful rebuilds?
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2024
  12. Jul 17, 2024 at 6:16 AM
    #12
    Grug556

    Grug556 New Member

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    Kings, Crestone Rack, Baja S8, Baja Fogs, Baja XL80s, Baja mini cubes, SPOD, ARB compressor, RCI full skids, ROAM box and stuff. ST Pros. Shrockworks sliders... GOAT armour
    frozen calipers are often from rusty or seized slider pins. Lube them up, keep them clean periodically.
     
  13. Jul 17, 2024 at 8:28 AM
    #13
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    Yes, that’s been my experience with single piston/slide type calipers. But I’ve never had a vehicle with 4 piston (opposing pair) calipers. These don’t have slide pins. I had a motorcycle with 6 pistons per caliper which I was afraid to even touch lol…they had a reputation for pistons to get cockeyed in the bore when retracting pads. So the front 4runner calipers make me a bit nervous, even when swapping pads . Just curious if the fronts are able to be successfully rebuilt by the average joe, or if its better to get buy rebuilt calipers, or even factory new.
     
    Harringbr99 likes this.

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