Steel Wheels

Yes, there is a difference between the front and rear axles. On the front, the black cap you see covers up the nut that holds the axle shaft in place. In the rear, the axles shafts come out a completely different way.

As for what to use for center caps, that's a tough one. That's one of the problems with steel wheels and why you don't see anybody with center caps on them.

 

What part numbers did you order? How did they balance out?

 

https://www.roadreadywheels.com/products/2010-2017-17x7-toyota-4runner-steel-wheel-rim

So far so good!

 

Shoot might order me a set for winter tires.

 

Back to Japan?

 

I have a set of 4Runner spares (42611-35430) not FJ (42611-35330) which have a different offset. The standard OEM hub caps fit just fine, and I have 255/75 DuraTracs on them. They are a better winter tire than the KO's I have, but still work great in the spring if I get lazy and don't swap them out. As far as weight goes, they were only 2 pounds heavier than the SR5 alloys- a minor detail when most people add 5 to 10 pounds per wheel when they swap out to a bigger tire.

 

Not many people in the US talk about this but in Australia its common to "upgrade" to steel wheels because:

1. If you air down too much or one wheel takes a hit they are less likely to crack
2. If you do bend one you can actually hammer it back in place enough to get back to town.

Another benefit is they are a lot less expensive.
I was seriously considering getting some Rough Country steel wheels when I decided to upgrade to 34's.




I run RRW hybrid wheels because I thought I'd run them with the beadlock rings... But I've aired all the way down to 11 psi and I've never debeaded a tire. Now the lips are so damaged from wheeling I wont be able to run the beadlock rings without getting them refinished...

Looking back I kind of regret not looking into steel wheels a bit more.

 

Steel wheels are definitely an upgrade! I've had the steelies on the 100 for 13 years and still love the look. But, for the 4Runner, I don't know... I just swapped the 20" Limited wheels for 17" TRD wheels and I'm liking that look.

 

Looks great!

 

The steel wheels definitely add to the utilitarian look. Now all that 100 needs is a black steel rear bumper.

 

It is quite funny that you mention this, I was watching an episode of 4WD 24/7 just last night and had noticed some of the steel wheels guys were running. One was using a hammer to bend the lip of the wheel back in place and went back to wheeling as if nothing had happened.

 

Hell yeah lol synchronicity.

Help me find some steel wheels that are 17x8.5 -25 offset and I will buy them when I jump to 35's

 

I can see doing that just for wheeling. I can also picture how many more wobble and vibration threads there would be from people who drove bent/unbent/rebent steelies on the highway.

 

Steelies can provide a softer ride than aluminum wheels

 

True.

I think the idea is just to get off the trail and back to civilization. Then you can buy a new wheel for $75

Like you said though. For wheeling it might make sense.
I think for most people driving a 4R on road and the occasional groomed dirt/ gravel road lightweight alloy wheels make much more sense.

 

OEM are 150$ each.

 

^this^... well, mostly.

Yes - steel wheels can be hammered straight(er) on the trail to get you off the trail and home, or at least somewhere easier to change that wheel or get onto a rollback. Hammering an aluminum/alloy wheel is moot - where the steel wheel will bend if it takes a big hit, the aluminum/alloy wheel breaks/cracks.

Okay the other part; this part: "lightweight alloy wheels make much more sense"... sure, on paper steel wheels make less sense. But come on, we all choose to drive outdated, heavy, inefficient trucks because we like them. But to be clear, these trucks don't make practical, grownup, quantifiable sense. But, they make us happy. Happiness is important. That makes sense. So, if a mod makes you happy... more sense.

 

Sorry I was referring to the RC wheels I mentioned earlier. Not the OEM spare steely.

 

TPMS sensors fit those?

 

I'm not sure. I was more concerned with finding the correct hub diameter. RC offers a few different sizes there.

The OEM TPMS sensor and valve stem is one piece right? I don't see why they wouldn't.

 

Yeah one piece. Though When I was ordering my wheels, the dealership warned me that the sensors might not fit the steelies. I was pleasantly surprised that Discount Tire was able to switch them over.

 

Totally, I thought about this purely from an off road aspect haha.

 

Curious to know what everyone is using for lug nuts or did you swap out the studs for a longer ones? I’m using regular lugs but don’t like that they don’t thread the entire depth!

 

Is this the front or rear?
I could be confusing this issue but I think the rear and front studs are different lengths.
I have no idea why Toyota would do that... But I've seen that mentioned on different threads while discussing what spacers can be used.

 

Are you able to use a closed end lug nut?

 

1SilverRunner pic is of front. Haven’t tried rear, ordered a set of extended thread lug's hopefully that will be the solution.

Toyota dealer said they come in one length 1-1/2” I need at least 2”.

NAPA added to the confusion by telling me the knurled diameter is different for front and rear. But, they can only get one length 1-1/2”.

Toyota, NAPA and discount tire had extended lugs but dia. of extension is too large to fit hole in wheels. The extension on stock lugs are approx 18mm new ones I ordered are 15.5mm

 

“Are you able to use a closed end lug nut?”

I could but it wouldn’t tread on more than the pic. Closed Is what I’m see in other posted pic’s! So, can’t tell how much they are threading on..

 

Looking at the picture closer, I now understand your issue. The factory lug nuts have an extended base that threads most of the stud. Are you able to use the OEM lug nuts?

 

No, oems thread on the same distance.