Re-installing 2nd and 3rd Row Seats?

Good idea. It beats a craigslist stranger that might hate 4runners for some reason lol

 

Thank you!!! @McSpazatron @glwood54

 

I have several other Milwaukee tools, but not the impact. I'm going to have to pick one of those up.

 

I don’t actually use it all that often in 4runner maintenance. And it has been involved in several nearly catastrophic close calls due to idiotic user error lol. You have been warned

I have it in there mostly because I may need to change a tire in off road situations where hands are muddy and the vehicle may jacked on less ideal surfaces. That might make using hand tools more of an issue. Maybe.

 

It needs to be metric instead of standard?

 

Everything on the 4Runner is metric. There are some wrenches/sockets that overlap between SAE and metric, i.e. 3/4" & 19mm, but metric is the most useful for this vehicle.

 

Yeah I thought it would all be metric. But this guy commented on his own video below. I don't get why / how he used standard sockets.

The bolts are 14 mm and 10 mm. But that's not the size you say overlaps, ie 3/4" and 19 mm.

"just some standard sockets is all I used. Some of them were a little tough, but no special tools were used. You may need a longer ratchet handle, like a breaker bar. If it’s too hard, the longer handle will give you more leverage."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEsXMgokt64&list=LL&index=12

 

I have only used mine on lug nuts and Predator Step bolts. Never for oil changes, not even for checking differential fluid.

 

He used a 10mm & 14mm socket in that video, with a ratchet and extension.

For clarification, when I said overlap, I meant between 3/4" & 19mm sockets, for example. They are the same size. Not that either was used to take out the seats.

 

I'll put this in here because I have it handy. Here is what the Car Care Nut views as a fairly complete setup for DIY 4Runner care:

1/4" sockets: 8,10,12,14 mm
3/8" sockets: 8,10,12,14,17,19,24 mm
1/2" sockets: 17,19,21,22,24,27,30,32 mm

He advises having regular and deep versions of each. Lug nuts take a deep 21mm.

Hex wrenches: 5,6,8,10 mm
Torx wrenches: 10,15,20,25,30

Fixed wrenches: 8,10,12,14,17,19,22,24,27,30 mm
Long straight needlenose pliers, long bent needlenose pliers

To start with, you can probably ignore everything over 24mm. (Rear differential fill port is 24mm. Front differential fill port is 10mm hex).

 

So this indicates that a 1/4" socket will only fit on 8,10,12,14 mm bolts?

Before heading to Home Depot, I'm watching videos on socket wrenches 101 and this is the kind of info that no one says, so thanks.

 

It means that you should have those size of sockets for a 1/4" ratchet head. You'll end up having to get some sizes you don't need among the smaller ones.

 

Here is a good resource for bolt sizes, torque values, and general parts and assembly info. It's incomplete but quite useful:https://www.to4runner.net/toyota_4runner_service_manual-242.html

You have to poke around a lot to find what you need in it.

 

Looks like I'll need a 1/4" wrench for the 10 mm bolt and a 3/8" wrench for the larger bolts, since the 1/4" is tiny.

 

I edited the list, since I missed the 10mm socket for 3/8" head. If you only buy one head at first, I'd start with 3/8".

 

This is the way. Almost never will you need to use an impact. And rarely does it save the typical do-it-yourselfer much time. My near catastrophe was tightening the rear diff oil drain plug when I wanted to loosen it. On the high setting of my 1/2 in milwaukee impact. Boy did I feel like a total idiot.

 

Got the 60% unbolted!

I lifted it free. Wow it's heavy. Then to test how I would reassemble it, I tried to align it back up. That might be the hardest part once it comes time to re-install that seat. I could get it lined up with one side, but then the other side would be way off alignment. I'd line up the other side, but then the first side would be 2 inches off. Did anyone run into that problem with the 2nd row 60%?

 

Congratulations! It might help if you post pics, because we might not interpret the verbal description correctly. One possibility is get one side lined up and then insert a bolt on that side, turned by hand enough to keep it roughly aligned and unable to move too far, then get the other end into place and do the same on that side. Then you can fine-tune the position before you tighten them down.

 

I should note, the partially inserted bolt is a vulnerable to being bent due to leverage from what it's holding down, so any movement after it's in should be done very gently.

 

good idea; will try tomorrow if my back's not totally messed up from today's adventure.

 

If you pace yourself and work carefully, you’ll just end up with a stronger back

Make sure you look at the seats where the bolts go through…often times it’s part of a plate, and somewhere on the backside of one of the plates is an alignment pin that goes into a hole in the floor. Can’t say for sure that it has them, but stuff like this often does.

 

The video above mentions locating pins on the 3rd row seats, but not the 2nd row...It looks like he broke one of the pins, or pulled it free from the seat bracket when yanking the seat off.

 

Used a wrench

 

Anyone know of any kind of rodent-proof storage for car seats? Like zippered bags that they'd fit into but critters couldn't chew through? Or other material.

I'll need to keep them in a storage shed where mice, rats (possibly), ants, and lizards have gotten into.