More horse power!

My ‘84 Pickup has 105 hp. Well, it did 40 yrs ago. It makes my 275hp Land Cruiser feel fast. And the Land Cruiser makes my 270hp 4Runner feel even faster. And the combined horsepower is lower than a Hellcat... and I still LOVE these trucks. They are NOT supposed to be fast. @LT Smash nailed it:

 

When did I say that I made an additional 180 HP with just a a tune? Head, cam, headers induction improvements and a custom tune to optimize all of those changes made an additional 180 RWHP.


https://youtu.be/T-Sbz2Etl_A?si=kDljyrmgm3HbKMDQ

30-50 RWHP with a canned tune without hardware changes is a pipedream

 

Agree with that. But you can get meaningful torque gains especially lower in the rpm range. That alone has a big impact on how the vehicle drives.

My 4Runner with an Overland Tailor “canned” tune below.

Red is 88 octane stock calibration. Blue is OTT tune on 88, red is OTT tune on 91. These are the gains that can be achieved reasonably with a “canned” tune. No retuning is needed for 91 either, Toyotas knock control will advance on its own and you can see what higher octane gets you above.

Most people can’t really read a dyno and just zoom to the peak numbers. A closer look shows 23 ft-lbs and 16 HP at 3600 rpm where people actually drive their vehicle daily. That’s not bad comparing 88 octane runs. Just over 11% gain for both vs stock at that rpm. Switch from 88 to 91 and tune and you get a 35 ft-lbs and 24.5 HP (17%) gain in both HP and TQ. You’re not going to get that with an intake or exhaust, throttle body, throttle body spacer, etc…

These are what people should expect for HP/TQ gains on a naturally aspirated vehicle with a tune alone. As I stated before, the purpose of the tunes isn’t all HP/TQ gains. The tunes address driveability issues in the stock calibration and can correct for common vehicle modifications (larger tires, more weight, etc..), and personalizing it to the owner’s preferences as needed.

 

Most of those torque gains are most likely the result of reduced (factory tune) "torque management". I really don't see where quicker throttle response and increased torque would be valuable in an off-road setting. For acceleration yes, but then we didn't buy a 4Runner for quick acceleration did we?

BTW my N/A Gen III 5.7 made 460 RWTQ @ 4200 RPM. Max 426 RWHP @ 6250.

 

For 99% of the driving done in the vehicle throttle response and low end torque might be of some help no?

 

Appears you’re happy with your T4R as is, that’s great. Just like the OP, others are asking for more where they can get it, and it becomes more needed as people add bigger heavier tires, bumpers and weight to the vehicles. More torque helps those people, especially off-road.

I have no idea what this adds to the conversation about 4Runners. Big V8 makes bigger numbers, got it…

 

I’ve seen this posted before, and this is Exactly why I think for most of us this tune is providing over half the real world value of the Maggie at 5% the cost. That extra 20-30 rwtq between 2000 and 3000 is exactly where you need it to help with highway overtaking. I can’t remember the last time I revved this rig to redline so I’m not even using the stock 270hp peak much less need more.

It’s not. If my 4Runner was a strictly off-road toy I wouldn’t bother. But if you DD it like I do I bet it will feel nice on the freeway.

 

Has anyone made more power yet?

 

You would think by now someone would’ve designed high performance heads for the 4.0

 

It's probably pretty complicated with DOHC and VVT-I. And, there probably aren't a lot of potential customers. Most people just drive them and accept that it's not a race car.

You can always get a supercharger for ~ $7K, if you really want more power.

 

+1. These engine are nothing like making heads for a pushrod V8. You cant just change things and adjust valve lash or rely on hydraulic lifters to take up any tolerance change. If you so much as deck the block a few thousandths during a rebuild you can potentially have the timing chain not fit & tension properly. Very complicated for after market work.

 

Agreed. That's why there's very few options for Honda VTECs as far as heads go. Most engines are just a different combination of a stock head with a different block.

 

It always baffles me when people do things like this. The want the best of both worlds and complain when they can't have it.

OP: Dude, you bought a brick that drives slow. This is why I nick named my ride "SloRunner". I will never win any 0-60 contests. Nor do I try. The faster you go in this lifted brick of a truck, the shittier your MPG's will be. A tune, a chip, an exhaust, etc.. will not do anything to help your HP gain. Just accept it and move on with your life.

 

Yep... People mess around with intakes and exhausts, but those don't do much. Never heard of anybody making a head, you would have to reverse engineer how the VTEC system worked and the stock Honda heads flowed pretty damn good and where not really a limiting factor AFAIK. (Remember there is a big difference between adding new heads to an American pushrod V8 thats starting at only 50hp/liter or so vs. on a high revving Honda that's already making 80-100hp/liter bone stock)


Oh and ECU tunes - but again those don't do much and are a LOT harder on Hondas due to encrypted ECU (When I had my Acura with a K20A2 the setup to get was the Hondata K-Pro - but you had to remove your ECU and mail it to them to crack and the result got you only 20hp more on a 200hp engine).

The massive gains on Hondas all came from adding on Turbo and Supercharger kits.

 

- A general rule of thumb is for every 11lb of weigh lost, 1HP is gained. Be careful though, the slope is very slippery!
- Take the time to index the spark plugs. If your feeling lucky, washer them to increase displacement!

 

No one wants them. One guy did everything you could to the 1GR in his xr and it still blew up trying to make power so he dumped it for a LS.

 

The speculation in this thread is hilarious.

Look at people doing actual big numbers out of this engine. I reached out to MotoIQ when I was looking into building a ultra4 car. If you sleeve the cylinders this is actually a VERY capable engine.

Here's what it takes to get around 400-450 HP out of it from them. Watch their video if you want to know more.

TLDR; 15-20K

"The labor and services for our 1GRFE builds is about $5,500. Which includes tear-down, block machining (hone and resurface), engine balancing, blueprinting and assembly. Headwork (valve job, guide replacement, valve reconditioning) is an additional $900 plus parts. The forged internals, valvetrain and OE parts outlined in our video are about $4,500. WPC of the block, crank, pistons, piston pins, rings, rods, cams, valves, valve springs and retainers is about $2,200. Cryo treatment of the same parts is about $1,900. So you can add up the labor, services and parts you'd like to use and you'll have a good idea of what your rebuild will cost."

 

The thing is most owners think $500 will get them 900hp. People making threads about more power on forums never actually builds them to the level you posted.

 

"Dumping it for an LS" is around the same price if you want similar HP when it's all done.

 

Pass..

For 15-20K, I'll LS swap it. And, I'm probably the most anti-LS-swap guy on this forum.

 

More potential out of the LS because of the higher displacement and 8 vs 6 cylinders.

 

To each their own

 

Say that to a 2JZ

 

I really don't think "most owners" are that stupid.

 

Explain "Stupid". I try not to trash anyone's build

 

Ah the most ricer overrated engine ever made thanks for some movies. It's just an iron block and still needs work over certain power levels.

Is an intake worth it?

 

I like mine. Makes a cool sound too haha

 

Yeah, but I always hear how expensive they are compared to an LS. If money wasn't a concern, I'd definitely use a 2J, or 1J for a build. But, not in a 4Runner. Probably a MkII or MKIII Supra, old Crown, Cressida, or maybe an SC300 (Soarer).

This just isn't a platform for a high power build, IMO. It's a platform for taking your sweet time. Although, I have had some fun blasting around on a beach that I have access to. But, I've never really felt the need for more power in that scenario.

 

I take mine to the dunes often and hate getting gapped by my buddy in a v8 4th gen!

 

Those movies had nothing to do with how popular the 2JZ is. It's one of the best motors ever made for making ridiculous power.

And, yes, it will require internals for really high power builds, but we're talking over 1000 hp.

What does this even have to do with what I said?