Radar Detector? with Dongar Power Adapter

So I'm switching from the Garmin dash cam to a FitcamX for better picture quality.

Because I already have the Dongar adapter installed I was considering adding a radar detector there...

My experience with radar detectors is they are very annoying with false alarms.
Have radar detectors gotten better in the last 10 years? Less false alarms, better detection? Is it even worth the price or should I just continue being extra vigilant when pushing the speed limit on large highways.

In Texas 75mph highways are met by normal traffic cruising at 80-90... The nail that sticks out gets hammered, and my 4R definitely sticks out.



What's your two cents on radar detectors? Are they worth having, or should I just remove the adapter.

Also, has anyone used the dongar adapter for something other than a dash camera? Any reason to leave it installed?

 

There was a guy who posted recently about this exact situation. He wanted to run his dash cam and radar at the same time. Dongar does make a split pigtail for it. My opinion (which is worthless by the way), radar detectors are pointless. I'm sure they've gotten better, but if you're keeping your eyes open and paying attention then you won't need one.

My truck really stands out, so did my truck before that. I never had to worry about getting pulled over for speeding. I do drive like a grandpa though. I'm the ass-hat going 60 or 65MPH. I'm not important enough to break the speed limit just to get to where I'm going.


EDIT, here's the thread: https://www.4runners.com/threads/radar-detector-camera-hardwiring.38550/#post-592973

 

Most radar detectors operate on 12 volts. I'm not sure about the Dongar's output.
Today's radar detectors are "smart" in that they learn false signals, have red light locations, but aren't much help with advance notice of laser radar. That's where the Waze app shines.
Radar detectors are best around town when the traffic cops constantly move their locations.

 

Ahhh is the Dongar Adapter not a 12v connection? I was under the assumption that it was.

 

All the Dongar's I've seen online just have a USB output.
Quoting from an add for them.

• OPTIMAL PERFORMANCE: This dash cam adapter is recommended for USB-powered devices drawing less than 2A at 5V to ensure efficient heat management. If you're using a USB-C powered device, please ensure compatibility by checking the voltage specifications beforehand.
• COMPATIBILITY LIMITATIONS: Please note that this adapter is not compatible with devices requiring 12V or those powered by a barrel jack or RJ11 connector. This adapter is not compatible with digital mirrors or mirrors with backup cameras.

There may be radar detectors that do work on 5 volts though.

 

This is the wire I use to get power from mirror-
https://amzn.to/3V7F8cQ
I use the smaller pins. I bought this one because I wasn't sure which size fit the 4runner.

This is the mirror mount I use -
https://amzn.to/3UXkScW

 

I'm sorry....whose 4Runner moves fast enough to break the speed limit? Certainly not mine!

 

If anything were most likely at risk of getting a ticket for impeding traffic

 

I've used an Adaptiv motorcycle radar detector on my motorcycles and in my 4Runner for the last 10 years. It has saved me numerous times in the small towns and backroads in my area, like more times that I can remember. Freeways, it false alarms too much from semi's and other stuff, but I hardly travel on the freeways anymore and if I do, I just set my cruise to 72 and let the madness go by.
Again, I would not go without one, at least weekly I'll going down a county road or state route, and it goes off, I slow to limit and there will be a sheriff or THP coming at me or sitting on the side. It was well worth the $500 for detectors and accessories.

 

Take it to a good mechanic

 

You guys must not have those pesky speed traps just waiting for someone to break 30 mph in a 25 mph zone.

 

I guess I'll just throw away my radar detector because it's useless. I'd be much better off collecting the tickets from all the speed traps it has warned me of.

 

I would highly suggest running a Radar Detector ether way. Situational awareness is priceless and the abilities of radar detectors are quite amazing now with smartphone integration and false filtering.

But you need to pick wisely because there there is a lot of junk out there. I'm a V1 fan and have it fully integrated into my countermeasures and smartphone. Some other good stand alone models are Radenso, Escort and Unidin, but the V1 IMO is far superior with its smartphone integration, if willing.

I also run LIDAR shiters for that extra edge.

If you want to deep dive into the countermeasure hobby I made a forum we sold a while back for this kind of thing. RDF

I would have been toast without a radar detector:

 

i haven't run a radar detector in almost 20 years.

Waze is FAR more efficient at letting you know where 90% of speed traps are. No false alarms like a radar detector going off every time you pass a grocery store with automatic doors, and with many departments moving to laser, it doesn't really matter. The second they hit the button, they have you. No delay like raday.

 

I run my V1 in my 07 Z4, but it is almost too annoying anymore to be affective. I have all but tuned out the X and K band alert. The problem is we still have LE here in Missouri that run older K. I will say the thing still saves me money. I tend to not look at the speedometer in my Z4...

Steve

 

New detectors have auto mute for false alarm. It will show on the screen that its auto mute but not give annoying sound.

 

My 10 year old Escort 360 Max (which has GPS) has a learning feature that if you pass by a false alarm three times, it blocks that false alarm location in it's data base with red light cameras. I'm intrigued by the new Redline 360 that receives crowd-sourced alerts for protection something like what Waze offers.

 

Waze is great and a good companion to a radar detector. However Waze also has plenty of false alarms where an officer is marked but is no longer there. Additionally I have experienced many instances where my detector picks up KA band and waze shows nothing, only for there to be a speed trap a mile up the road.

 

You've got a good point re: Waze. It also just occurred to me...if you are the only one (or one of the only ones) on the road, there are no other drivers out there ahead of you to tag the police vehicle that's hidden 5 miles up ahead. Depending on the type of radar being used, that is where the radar detector could save your biscuits.

TimG

 

Waze is a nice enhancement but wont save you from moving radar or a hidden LEO. But you have to go top tier radar detector for the false filtering. A top tier unit has no delay and tons of range too.

Upgrade and use one of the apps. My V1 is super quiet and has incredible range when i run the app. It's well worth the upgrade. I have saved tons of $$ with my V1 over the years, even when it was noisy.

 

I run both Waze and Radar detectors constantly. Why? I speed. They work best together.

 

@Ripper238 - can you say a bit more about the LIDAR setup you have? And I'm interested in what this means: "have it fully integrated into my countermeasures and smartphone" ... I get the smartphone point, but what else do you have it integrated into?

 

Lidar is a method for determining ranges by targeting an object or a surface with a laser and measuring the time for the reflected light to return to the receiver. Lidar may operate in a fixed direction or it may scan multiple directions, in which case it is known as lidar scanning or 3D laser scanning, a special combination of 3-D scanning and laser scanning.
Here's a very article:

https://www.vortexradar.com/2022/06/testing-best-police-laser-jammers-2022/

 

Also....
It gives you time to quickly slow down as needed, disable your jammers, and let him get a reading off of your car doing the speed limit.