Changing your own oil

Second on bulk oil, The import dealer I worked at during the late 90s/early 2000s had a 250 gallon bulk tank that got filled with Kendall oil.

 

One tip, brand of oil doesn't matter at all. You can run any synthetic on sale and do 10k intervals. Your engine will outlast your ownership.

 

Dunno if it's been mentioned here but over on the tundra forum it has been brought up that Toyota has changed the formula to the 0w20 and it has been proven by members oil analysis as well. It no longer has the higher additive package like it did previously. I had been running this oil because it had a higher zinc but with them changing it up it's really not worth the premium they charge for it now. I'll probably be switching to the Penzoil platinum or the Valvoline my next oil change.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/toyota-motor-oil-add-pack-formula-change.140001/

 

Break in change isn't necessary and won't provide any benefits.

 

I'm pretty sure that was @Acesandeights being sarcastic. At least I hope so...

 

I like to use the word facetious, but I think most people better understand sarcasm...but either way, you got it @glwood54 No, I don't spend $220 on oil changes, even though the local dealer would like me to spend $140 and more than half a day (or the add'l $80 Uber roundtrip).

 

yep that about it for the process. Easy peazy

 

Depends on the day

 

I will probably do it my self I don't want to risk a tech over tightening the oil filter.

 

I have a friend with a lift, best kind of friend to have

 

Made me feel an sleep better, that is a benefit right there.

 

Friends with lifts!

 

Thought I'd share this info. I don't work for these folks or have a financial interest in them. OKpeteroleum.com has Toyota 0W-20 Full Synthetic in stock for $89 full case of 12qts with free shipping with OK10 promo code (10% off).

 

I've noticed that people (myself included) frequently comment on how badly somebody over-torqued their oil filter housings. Now I'm convinced that something happens during regular use to cause that. I've done all my own oil changes and I'm really careful about torquing to the right value. Despite that, it always takes a lot more than I expected to remove. This last time, out of curiosity, I tried to take it off with the wrench set at 60 ft-lbs and it wasn't enough. I didn't have enough patience to creep up on the right value, but it must have been around 80.

 

I agree with Backpacker here (although dealerships still probably do vastly over-torque these). Nobody else but me has ever touched the oil filter housing on my '23 OR; I don't overtighten when changing the oil every 5k miles; but it still takes a lot more effort to remove than I put into tightening it.

 

I just snug it with my 3/8" drive but heating and expansion can make it tighter.

 

Is there a difference tightening torque with removing torque? I always thought that it takes less force to tighten a bolt to torque spec and more force to remove it.

 

It's not going to be identical, but the difference shouldn't be 4x.

 

And don't forget to put nitrogen in your tires!

 

I am in NO way knocking you ,your comment or way of doing Mx.!
I believe (MHO) that when properly TQ'd vibration has the opposite effect of loosening & causes the "extra tightening effect"
Glad you do it I/A/W. procedures.
I have never in my professional career used a TQ wrench to remove a component/article, only to install or when re-torques are due. When I installed a component/article, I always use to Max TQ & would use Min TQ on Re-Tq (when OEM spec.'s min-max TQ allowed). Totally legal & W/in OEM procedures.( just saves some un-necessary de-safety & re-safety wiring) When it comes time to remove I just use the appropriate tool i.e. Bigger ratchet or breaker bar (seldom needed in my industry.)

 

Yeah, I wouldn't have done it until after I pulled so hard on it without getting any movement. That told me it was going to take 50+ ft-lb to get loose, so I was curious how much it was. I didn't figure it would be more than 60, but I was wrong.

I agree that vibration seems an unlikely cause. I suspect temperature plays into it somehow.

 

So to confirm your last oil change & filter was C/W by dealership ? And the oil filter was way over TQ'd that you did the R&R ? Strictly just asking for my own info. I do NOT work for dealership Nor Toyota OEM,

 

The current model Fumoto 133 drains in about 7 minutes. While the pan is draining, I start on the filter.

 

No, I've done all the oil changes, with the housing torqued to 21 ft-lbs. The first one at 1500 miles was terribly hard to loosen, which I attributed to the factory or dealership. Subsequent changes were at 6.5k, 9.2k, and 15.5k, and they all took a good bit of force to undo, a lot more force than I put them on with. The last one was the worst. That's why there must be something going on during use that make it tighten.

 

I do my own changes and "torque" the oil filter housing and it's always a bi%&ch to break loose. Not so sure it's always the tech over tightening it??? I've done over 25 oil changes on my 2019. It's tight every time.

 

The o ring swells after installation.

 

You can say that again.

 

That could be it. I'll break out the micrometer and compare old and new if I remember at the next change.

 

Change my own oil, have for years, will do forever as long as physically able. Every 5k miles, Pennzoil Platinum 0W20, o.e. toyota filter. I bought my tires @ Discount Tire so rotations and balances *road force* are free every 6k miles. Air filter and cabin air filter, as well as bosch icon wiper blades once per year. Front/rear diff and transfer case every 45k miles, all corresponding plug gaskets/washers every fluid change. Ive changed coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, front rotors and pads, transmission fluid, front/rear diff/transfer case fluid, spark plugs, replaced shocks all around, cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body, lubed zerk fittings on driveshafts and Ujoints, and religiously check wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods and sway bar links every time I have it in the air. Need this pig to make it to 250k miles. Bought it with 50k miles as a prior rental car.

 

No doubt with your diligent service the 4R will reach your goal. I applaud you for the prior rental purchase, as my wife has been driving one for the last 4 years without issues. There are those on this forum, however, that will inform you that you are driving a ticking time bomb since the day you left the dealer's lot...