Front Caliper Piston Seized

Crazy though, the rear ones just came loose without the added leverage. I'm guessing because it's a 2 piece caliper perhaps.

 

^Maybe the rears didn't have loctite?

Fronts need loctite for safety - a single bolt backed out can cause the caliper to shift and break the hard line on the knuckle, dumping out all your brake fluid. The rear caliper has a flex hose going to it, so it's more tolerant of a loose bolt.

 

Recommend loctite again? I torqued them back to ~140 now while I wait for the caliper and sort this out. I put the old brakes and rotor back on.

 

^I never used loctite when installing my calipers. In fact, I spray cosmoline in the bolt holes to prevent rust...

 

When I bought a 1985 BJ70 Land Cruiser back in the early 2000's I discovered one of the ears of the calipers that attach to the knuckle was broken in half and the caliper was really only being held on with one bolt. And the broken piece of the caliper had a healthy layer of rust so who knows how long the previous owner had been driving around like that.

 

^You were lucky. Could've easily been like this:

 

So what do they follow if you don’t me asking?

 

^"Follow"? When you're making 9 million vehicles per year, with a better credit rating than the Japanese government, you create your own specs and tell the bolt mfrs to follow them.

 

That’s boss. Thanks for sharing, the entire M12 vs M14 and hex head think had me confused with contradicting info online! At least now o know the caliper on the vehicle isn’t done butchered up / swapped ordeal from the PO.

 

I also noticed Toyota does not use the same wrench size as American standards. I got commercial M8 with 13 mm wrench. Toyota M8 have 12mm wrench. Same fine thread- 1.25 I think.

 

I never buy auto parts from Amazon!

There care OEM parts dealers online that offer wholesale prices. Even eBay is a source of OEM parts if you know the Toyota part number.

 

So called auto parts around town today, all they carry is Reman Calipers by DNS..

In the meantime I ordered the Amazon unit to see what showed up. Question, if the caliper is stamped with 14WB does that mean it’s a OEM unit?

 

It might be an OEM casting, but you still have to worry about the quality of the parts they installed in it. In my many years of experience, I've never seen a single rebuilt / remanufactured caliper from an aftermarket supplier that used both a Toyota OE casting and Toyota OE rebuild parts. Oddly enough, none of them lasted as long ether.

 

Gotcha, so the 14WB means a OEM casting. I’ll call the dealer tomorrow see what they charge for a caliper.

The stuff locally to me is about $60-70 more expensive from the parts stores and no guarantees it’s any better than this bad boy from Amazon. If they were cardone that would be another story.. but DNS Armature I’ve never heard of.

 

Why anyone would ever buy auto parts from Amazon is beyond me, when there are so many good options for online discounted auto parts, some of which were linked above. Amazon is chock full of knock-off items and the cheapest Chinese crap available. But hey, it's only a $Xx,000 truck...

 

Well cost is not the only factor. Time - these days shipping from Amazon is hard to beat. Ease of returns. Don’t forget I’m reaching out from the land of Canada us folks here in the North don’t have some of the perks they have in America, ie. free shipping on just about anything, free returns, vast options online/locally and then of course just better generalized pricing.

If I were to order a caliper and it came in wrong 12wb vs 14wb, or of the same quality as this Chineseum unit.. the headache and hassle to return it is too much for one to handle.

 

Listen I don't want to give you a hard time... Cars, any car only needs to do 2 things, go, and stop. The cost of OEM or good brakes is worth the piece of mind, for me at least. Not to mention you'll probably get 5-10 years out of OEM units. I bet your dealer has them in stock or available over night too. Just consider that you are saving a lot by doing the work yourself, so this justifies buying the best parts available. Anyway, it's your call! Respect for doing your own work, which a lot of people won't do to begin with.

 

This looks like a reman OEM caliper. If you have it in your hands just run it. Make sure all the assembly bolts are tight on the caliper. Make sure it doesn't leak when you bleed the circuit. Don't need to overthink it. You're leaving your 8 year-old vehicle in a better condition than before you started the job.

You have a good line wrench for the flare nut going into your caliper?

 

loctite? Um thats a no.

 

Brake caliper mounting bolts are 75 foot pounds

 

I rebuilt my LS400 calipers and put them on my GS300. Its pretty easy to rebuild...just buy the rebuild kit from the dealer. Plugging the line and having access to a compressor helps alot. While you're at it, this is a good time to clean and paint the calipers (Optional). When done, bleed the line. Search youtube for videos.

 

FSM calls for 91 ft-lb for 2010-2016 with M12 bolts and 137 ft-lb for 2016+ with M14 bolts. Maybe you're mixing it up with the rear caliper?

 

2010-2022 gets 91 lbs. for the fronts. My bad, but id rather be 16 lbs less rather than almost 50 lbs over.

https://toyota-specs.com/cars/2020/4runner4.0/torque-specs_brake.php

 

^You're going to believe a random BS website that shows rear drum brakes vs. the actual Toyota FSM? You do you...

Do you also torque the rear lugnuts to 110 ft-lbs like the site says instead of 76 ft-lbs according to the owner's manual?

 

Have fun at 137 lbs. i’ll stick between 75-90 for my front caliper bolts. Never had a issue or ever loosened up.

I set my lugs at 85 lbs. Did that on my 07, 11 & 22. No issues there as well.

 

No worries I partially want to rebuild the caliper myself just for self gratification, lol. Call that normal?

No worries!

for comparison I called my dealer today to inquire on caliper, boot kit and piston.

Caliper is $440
Boot kit is $68
Piston $76
All pricing is in Cabadian pesos.

Needless to say rebuilding the caliper with a OEM kit isn’t even worth it considering my time
and the fact I need the rig up and moving.

Think the Amazon unit will be going back and I’ll just pick up a local unit that’s about $50-60 more and hopefully quality and reputation is better than Amazon.

 

DRS vs. A-Premium? Same country, different gulag. The benefit of a local store is the ability to return the old caliper as a core, and easier exchanges when under warranty.

 

Damned if I do, damned if I don't